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Topic: [coffee] Re: +Alpenroast Problems (4 msgs / 277 lines)
1) From: Rick Farris
Looking at Bob's URL for the Alpenrost mods reminded me of how hard it
is to read.  A while back I started trying to reformat it to be more
clear.  I didn't get very far, but here's what I have:
-----
I answered this question for Bob Trancho on the Homeroast list,it's in
the digest version, Vol 1 #1080 45 messages, Message:45. Subject: +Alp
adjustments/cleaning?
I c,c,& pasted a few of my answers to his question  below...
I gave detailed instructions on how to adjust the roast time frame
window on an Alp, (even without a volt/ohm meter), but you are some
what limited without one!  Before you start, do you have a
multi-meter? (volt-ohm meter), you can't properly adjust the roaster
without one, & do you have the earlier Version 1.0, or the newer
model, Version 1.1? 1.1 has a white sticker on the bottom of the
roaster.  To open up the Alp, lay the Alp down on it's back, hinges on
the table. You'll need a security torx bit(T-10) to take the panel off
to access the printed circuit board. Also needed is a 5/64" hex key to
adjust Vr1(variable resistor, potentiometer). Vr1 is the 2nd hole,
center right hand side of the board.
The Vr is 1000 ohm,*DO NOT PLUG IN*, take a resistance measurement
from the center terminal point & the bottom point on the PCB printed
circuit board.Lower resistance, higher current to the heater P=E x I
(P=E squared divided by R, resistance). On my Alp resistance is 578
ohms, they're different because of manufacturing tolerances/variables
in electronic components, heating elements,etc.
The potentiometer Vr1 adjusts through an arc of about 270 degrees, 0
ohms to 1000 ohms. You'll be adjusting counterclockwise & the pot is
very sensitive to adjustments,so you'll have to make SMALL
adjustments, like the #'s on a clock face. When the hex key is in the
pot hole, wherever the key is pointing to (example 10:00am), move the
key counterclockwise,to 9:30am,9:00am,etc. Assemble the Alp & test the
roast time with a test roast. That's the best you'll be able to do
without a multimeter,borrow one or buy one, they can be fairly cheap,
& this way you won't waste green by making unknown adjustments. You
may get lucky & hit it spot on with the procedure I've just described
though!  {:-D
Roast time frame window start & end times, #'s 1-15, starts at 16.35
mins & increases incredimentally every 15 secs per #, to 20.05 mins.
Get a timer/stopwatch & time a roast. Adjust the roast window to the
middle of the roast time frame window,to #8 approx 18.20 mins for
start of 2nd crack. This isn't chisled in stone..., you can adjust the
window for start of 2nd hotter or cooler, to your own personal
preference.{:-) I personally adjust the roast time frame setting at
approximately the middle of this window, #8 (18.20 mins),(the factory
setting) for the start of 2nd crack. 
One unit I was working on,1st crack was at 10.45 mins & 2nd at 13.00
mins, a 28% shorter roast cycle.
*P.S.* (I've added this in) --> If your roast is at say #15 (20.05
mins),& you want to adjust to roast time frame window #8 (18.20
mins),in secs this is 1,205 & 1,100. 1100 divided by 1205 = .913,
91.3%. 100% -91.3% =8.7%. Vr1 does not adjust in a linear fasion so I
call it approx 10% . Whatever your resistance measurement on Vr1 is
you'll bring the resistance down counterclock wise this 10%, say from
900 ohms - 10% or 810, 800 ohms. 2nd crack should now be within #8
(18.20 mins). The difference between #8 to #12 is exactly +1 min,[4,15
sec roast #'s.(60 secs)], & 8 to #4 is exactly -1 min,[4,15 sec roast
#'s.(60 secs)]. As you can see, adjustment is very sensitive/finicky
to adjust to the stock roast time frame window #8. All the Alps I
worked on could be brought back to factory spec (#8).
The condition of some of these roasters were beyond belief... burnt
black inside, {:-O no cleaning whatsoever, & they were brought back to
a "factory refurbished" level for resale. I had no scorching or
tipping of the control bean I'm using, Swissmar's Columbian Estate
(not estate by the way!!) This machine was roasting very hot & was
adjusted accordingly to the proper time frame roast window (#8). 
I'm doing repair & service refurbishing work as an interm off premises
sub-contractor for (Canada) Swissmar (Swissmar Imports Ltd) 35 East
Beaver Creek Rd., Unit 6 Richmond Hill, Ontario, Canada L4B 1B3
1-(905)-764-1121. The(USA) Swissmar Imports Inc 6391 Walmore Road
Niagara Falls, NY. 14304 1-87-SWISSMAR (1-877-947-7627) warehouse is
where all the US roasters are shipped to for warranty
work/replacement. All the roasters are then shipped to the Canadian
address. Believe you/me, there's enough of them! Heat is regulated by
a thermocouple attached to the heating element, proper adjustment of
potentiometer/variable resistor (Vr1),& by the ambient air temperature
correction sensor on Ver 1.1. 
The thermocouple is spotwelded to the left front section of the
heating element, under the stainless retaining clamp & has no bearing
on being defective, or gunked up with dust/chaff/goo and limiting the
roast somehow. The heating element,if viewed in a darked room, will
*GLOW* orange & all particulate matter is burned off. The thermal fuse
& thermostat are also not affected by particulate matter.You say you
keep it clean, is the stainless reflector on the lid, inside the roast
chamber clean & shiny? The Alp relys on & needs these reflective
surfaces to help it roast evenly & consistently. The Alp is also
weight sensitive..., are you weighing 8oz roasts to 225-227 grams? 
For experienced roasters, you can roast less than 8oz, described on
Tom Owen's excellent site here. I have also roasted 265gr (9.35oz) so
that the finished roasted weight was an even 225-227gr (8oz) Cheers!

2) From: Craig Andrews
Hi Rick, That's my post, from here:http://www.coffeegeek.com/forums/coffee/homeroast/6348#6348& I've
posted that info here 3 or 4 times on the list... Here's a better pic of
the over temp thermostat & the TCO, thermal cut off/thermal fuse:http://www.coffeegeek.com/forums/coffee/homeroast/13694#13694The photo
is courtesy of Andy Scheter's pics. I emailed the info to a few of you
guys, I guess ya didn't save the posts or emails.
Cheers,
Craig.
Andrews Green Bean's.
-----------------------
Message: 16
From: "Rick Farris" 
To: 
Subject: RE: [coffee] Re: +Alpenroast Problems
Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2004 12:40:18 -0700
Reply-To: homeroast
Looking at Bob's URL for the Alpenrost mods reminded me of how hard it
is to read.  A while back I started trying to reformat it to be more
clear.  I didn't get very far, but here's what I have:
-----
I answered this question for Bob Trancho on the Homeroast list,it's in
the digest version, Vol 1 #1080 45 messages, Message:45. Subject: +Alp
adjustments/cleaning?
I c,c,& pasted a few of my answers to his question  below...
I gave detailed instructions on how to adjust the roast time frame
window on an Alp, (even without a volt/ohm meter), but you are some
what limited without one!  Before you start, do you have a
multi-meter? (volt-ohm meter), you can't properly adjust the roaster
without one, & do you have the earlier Version 1.0, or the newer
model, Version 1.1? 1.1 has a white sticker on the bottom of the
roaster.  To open up the Alp, lay the Alp down on it's back, hinges on
the table. You'll need a security torx bit(T-10) to take the panel off
to access the printed circuit board. Also needed is a 5/64" hex key to
adjust Vr1(variable resistor, potentiometer). Vr1 is the 2nd hole,
center right hand side of the board.
The Vr is 1000 ohm,*DO NOT PLUG IN*, take a resistance measurement
from the center terminal point & the bottom point on the PCB printed
circuit board.Lower resistance, higher current to the heater P=E x I
(P=E squared divided by R, resistance). On my Alp resistance is 578
ohms, they're different because of manufacturing tolerances/variables
in electronic components, heating elements,etc.
The potentiometer Vr1 adjusts through an arc of about 270 degrees, 0
ohms to 1000 ohms. You'll be adjusting counterclockwise & the pot is
very sensitive to adjustments,so you'll have to make SMALL
adjustments, like the #'s on a clock face. When the hex key is in the
pot hole, wherever the key is pointing to (example 10:00am), move the
key counterclockwise,to 9:30am,9:00am,etc. Assemble the Alp & test the
roast time with a test roast. That's the best you'll be able to do
without a multimeter,borrow one or buy one, they can be fairly cheap,
& this way you won't waste green by making unknown adjustments. You
may get lucky & hit it spot on with the procedure I've just described
though!  {:-D
Roast time frame window start & end times, #'s 1-15, starts at 16.35
mins & increases incredimentally every 15 secs per #, to 20.05 mins.
Get a timer/stopwatch & time a roast. Adjust the roast window to the
middle of the roast time frame window,to #8 approx 18.20 mins for
start of 2nd crack. This isn't chisled in stone..., you can adjust the
window for start of 2nd hotter or cooler, to your own personal
preference.{:-) I personally adjust the roast time frame setting at
approximately the middle of this window, #8 (18.20 mins),(the factory
setting) for the start of 2nd crack.
One unit I was working on,1st crack was at 10.45 mins & 2nd at 13.00
mins, a 28% shorter roast cycle.
*P.S.* (I've added this in) --> If your roast is at say #15 (20.05
mins),& you want to adjust to roast time frame window #8 (18.20
mins),in secs this is 1,205 & 1,100. 1100 divided by 1205 = .913,
91.3%. 100% -91.3% =8.7%. Vr1 does not adjust in a linear fasion so I
call it approx 10% . Whatever your resistance measurement on Vr1 is
you'll bring the resistance down counterclock wise this 10%, say from
900 ohms - 10% or 810, 800 ohms. 2nd crack should now be within #8
(18.20 mins). The difference between #8 to #12 is exactly +1 min,[4,15
sec roast #'s.(60 secs)], & 8 to #4 is exactly -1 min,[4,15 sec roast
#'s.(60 secs)]. As you can see, adjustment is very sensitive/finicky
to adjust to the stock roast time frame window #8. All the Alps I
worked on could be brought back to factory spec (#8).
The condition of some of these roasters were beyond belief... burnt
black inside, {:-O no cleaning whatsoever, & they were brought back to
a "factory refurbished" level for resale. I had no scorching or
tipping of the control bean I'm using, Swissmar's Columbian Estate
(not estate by the way!!) This machine was roasting very hot & was
adjusted accordingly to the proper time frame roast window (#8).
I'm doing repair & service refurbishing work as an interm off premises
sub-contractor for (Canada) Swissmar (Swissmar Imports Ltd) 35 East
Beaver Creek Rd., Unit 6 Richmond Hill, Ontario, Canada L4B 1B3
1-(905)-764-1121. The(USA) Swissmar Imports Inc 6391 Walmore Road
Niagara Falls, NY. 14304 1-87-SWISSMAR (1-877-947-7627) warehouse is
where all the US roasters are shipped to for warranty
work/replacement. All the roasters are then shipped to the Canadian
address. Believe you/me, there's enough of them! Heat is regulated by
a thermocouple attached to the heating element, proper adjustment of
potentiometer/variable resistor (Vr1),& by the ambient air temperature
correction sensor on Ver 1.1.
The thermocouple is spotwelded to the left front section of the
heating element, under the stainless retaining clamp & has no bearing
on being defective, or gunked up with dust/chaff/goo and limiting the
roast somehow. The heating element,if viewed in a darked room, will
*GLOW* orange & all particulate matter is burned off. The thermal fuse
& thermostat are also not affected by particulate matter.You say you
keep it clean, is the stainless reflector on the lid, inside the roast
chamber clean & shiny? The Alp relys on & needs these reflective
surfaces to help it roast evenly & consistently. The Alp is also
weight sensitive..., are you weighing 8oz roasts to 225-227 grams?
For experienced roasters, you can roast less than 8oz, described on
Tom Owen's excellent site here. I have also roasted 265gr (9.35oz) so
that the finished roasted weight was an even 225-227gr (8oz) Cheers!

3) From: Rick Farris
Craig writes:
<Snip>
Of course I did!  How do you think I managed to repost it for the
newbies?
-- Rick

4) From: Craig Andrews
Of course I did!  How do you think I managed to repost it for the
newbies?
-- Rick
Right, of course!
 Duhhh...!, on my end!! {:-D
Craig.


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