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Topic: More on PID setup Questions (8 msgs / 250 lines)
1) From: petzul
Whew, this has got me all nervous. Here is the link I was using to get 
info on my PXW-5,
the one I have is the one on the right.http://www.ttiglobal.com/products/manuals/pxw_manual.pdfSomehow the manual does not seem to tell me enough of what I need to know.
There needs to be power to the PID, and the TC has to hook to the PID to 
let it know what it is controlling. The PID has to have an output 
(control?) that runs my Poppery heater somehow. So the control would 
trigger a relay that turns power on and off to the heater right?
Now the relay would be using power from the wall outlet, or a Variac?
If all of these assumptions are correct, then I just need to figure out:
How to power the PID.
How to use the Control output.
What kind of relays I need, and how to power them.
And lots of wire.
I sure hope working through this process is okay to do on this list. I 
am really starting with basic knowledge, learning as I go, and hopefully 
others will learn along with me. Right now it just seems very complex, 
like roasting did at first;
but I am certain that it will seem simple at some point! arrrrgggghhh!
Somewhat befuddled, here in LHC.

2) From: Dan Bollinger
Peter, What is the exact model number on the back of the controller? This will
help a great deal.
If you have a basic PID for SSR control, your wiring will be the same as on page
5. It is the wiring schematic. It represents the backside of your PID.
Attach your TC  to Terminals 2 & 3 (be careful about polarity, the Red TC wire
is always - )
Attach your SSR to Terminals 4 & 5 (again, watch for polarity)
Attach your 110V line to Terminals 8 & 9 (no polarity issues here)
Your heater will be using power from the wall. Sometimes called the 'Line'.
Attach the white power Line to one side of your heater coil. Attach the black
power Line to one terminal of the SSR's output. Then, run the same size wire
from the other SSR output terminal to the other end of your heater coil. That's
all there is! No need for a variac unless you want to boost power, otherwise let
the PID do its thing. Dan
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3) From: Ed Needham
I sure hope it's OK since I need to know how to do this stuff too.  It is so
easy for some with electronics backgrounds, but somehow it is a really thick
spot in my brain.  I can talk through it, but when I pick up the PID and
begin trying to figure out which end is up...Oh, boy.
Give me drill presses, cutoff tools, and lots of metal and I'm happy.  Wires
give me a headache.
Ed Needham
To Absurdity and Beyond!
homeroaster ... d.o.t ... com

4) From: petzul
Hi Dan,
The PID I have is either a PXW5-RAB1-5V or RAY1. Either way it has a 
relay, which I need to figure out how to use.
Also, I guess I need to learn more about where to place the TC.
Dan Bollinger wrote:

5) From: Jim Schulman
On 15 Apr 2004 at 21:09, petzul wrote:
Afaik, this is simply a switch with no power attached. It can be 
used to directly switch a small load, or the 110 volt coil or 
control side of an interposing relay.
The drawback of this configuration is that you'll need to use a 
cycle time of around 10 to 30 seconds to spare the mechanical 
contact, rather than the 1 to 3 seconds you can use with an 
output suitable for driving an ssr. Also, when the contact wears 
out, you'll need to replace the unit or disassemble it and 
install a new relay.

6) From: Dan Bollinger
Peter.  I checked the part number against the manual. Yep, it needs a 24VAC/DC
power supply. Why not use it to power the mechanical relay, too? Or, use 24VDC
to power the PID and an SSR.
You will have to play with TC placement until it gives you good data.
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7) From: petzul
Hi Dan,
What you say sounds good. It will not take an expensive transformer to 
get 24V and diodes are cheap also. How do I hook it up? Does the relay 
from the PDI turn on a small 24 volt pulse to an SSR? Kind of like the 
gate in a transistor?
Just talked to Dwight at TTI and he had me check some stuff. This unit 
runs on household volts :)
I hooked it up to my variac, per Dwight, and tried it at 24V, no luck. 
SO I turned it up, and it works fine at 110V and even less :)
Cycle time can be adjusted to as little as 1 second, not sure if that is 
little enough, or what is meant by cycle time at this point.
It does have a relay output, so I need a power supply for the SSR, which 
I may be able to use a left over wall wart, he says a 9V battery will 
work also.
TTI will replace the relay board with a SSR driver board for $35.00. Not 
sure if I would gain anything by doing that as far as speed goes. Noise 
of relay is not an issue to me.
More later,
Movin on down the line, here in LHC.
Dan Bollinger wrote:

8) From: Dan Bollinger
Peter,  110V line current?  Lucky you!  In that case, forget the whole =
transformer thing. You don't need it . Instead, buy a 110V input SSR and =
wire it like this:
Run a 110V white wire to one side of the SSR input.
Run a 110V black wire to one of the PID's relay terminals
Run a black wire from the other PID relay terminal to the other SSR =
That will make the PID operate a SSR. Dan
a 24VAC/DC
use 24VDC
controller? This
same as on
Red TC
size wire
to know.
PID to
figure out:
list. I
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