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Topic: 172 gr. in my Pumper and counting (21 msgs / 372 lines)
1) From: Edward Spiegel
Hi folks,
I am now up to 170 grams in my Wearever Pumper whose slots were widened and it is pretty clear that if I had a taller can extending the chamber that there is plenty of oomph to do even more. Currently, I am using a soup can and when the popper has to be leveled not long after first or the beans go shooting out. The profile (ambient temp in my garage: 57 F) was: first crack: (outliers at 6:05) 6:15-7:45 with second crack outliers at 10:20 and the first "true" snaps of second at 10:55. For those who missed my earlier posts, this same Pumper would roast 100 grams to second in about 5 minutes before the slot widening.
The yield was about 1/3 of a lb. which for our use hear is a bit more than I'll go though in a week.
I am guessing that this beast will handle 190 grams when I get a taller can or a lantern chimney on it.

2) From: Bob Baker
What "slots" are you talking about?
The only slots that my pumpers have are on the bottom of the machine.
Not on the inside popping chamber.  Which slots did you widen?
On Fri, 14 Jan 2005 14:24:32 -0800, Edward Spiegel  

3) From: petzul
Hi Ed,
Isn't this fun?
After I found the P1 I gave up on all the rest but I remember the 
wearever as powerful also.
Taking my Dremel and cutting out the vents in the chamber by about 25% 
increased the air flow; but then I opened up the air flow into the 
plastic housing also, and this helped again.
Seems like roasting limit may be restricted by the size of the container 
you can hook on the top of it and still have agitation. Somehow my 
roasting log got left out in the rain and was destroyed! but I think I 
was doing over 200 Gr nicely. Go for it!
All the best,
Edward Spiegel wrote:

4) From: Edward Spiegel
At 5:07 PM -0700 1/14/05, petzul wrote:
What I love about this mod is that I could do it without taking anything apart or using any powertools.
When I find time (after our next major software release) I plan on taking another pumper I recently acquired and drilling large holes in the side that can be opened or covered to adjust the airflow/heat.
Having fun,

5) From: Jared Andersson
Ed, just to make you explain one more time.  I need a little
clarification.  The "slots" you widen are the metal slots in the area
were the bean sit when roasted. Right?  I was so sure you were talking
about the plastic on the outside or some where else I couldn't truly
hear you before.  So you just stick a screw driver down there and pry
them out some?  Jared
On Fri, 14 Jan 2005 16:15:20 -0800, Edward Spiegel

6) From: Edward Spiegel
At 10:19 PM -0600 1/14/05, Jared Andersson wrote:
Yup. Just start with the blade vertical and very gently twist a little to widen the slots (yes the ones at the bottom of the canister the beans sit in -- widening them lets more air get in). A little bit goes a long way. I did wait to try this until I had a spare pumper because I was afraid that I might make it unusable.
Putting holes in the body apparently work but I was going from the lowest-tech easiest experiment first.

7) From: Ken Mary
Jared, I suggest that you widen 4 equally spaced slots to start, then see
how you like the coffee. The "cans" just pull out of the bases, some more
easily than others, to make the slots more accessible. This should not be a
challenge to see how much can be roasted. Do it to tailor the profile to
produce better coffee.

8) From: Jared Andersson
Thanks for the input Edward and Ken and sorry I am getting back to
this thread so late.  I tried to pry out some slots last night on my
wearever pumper but failed.  I think this old school popper is made of
cast aluminum which is both thick and hard.  It felt more likely that
I would break a fin than bend it.  I will try again with this new info
but am feeling a bit silly about failing at an apparently simple mod. 
On Sat, 15 Jan 2005 07:55:08 -0500, Ken Mary  wrote:

9) From: Gary Townsend
Jared, ahh, just put the popper down, son, and step away from the counter...
Keep both hands where I can see 'em...turn around, real slow like....
I'm blad you did not continue to attempt to bend the cast aluminum
housing...that would have been bad...that model is VERY DESIRABLE to
use in modified poppers!
The cheapie mods that work on the lightweight plastic mods generally
will work, the same, but there are other ways to improving your
airflow !
Look at Poppery  (original ) mods...cast aluminum chamber, etc. 
Toastmasters, poppery 2's are comparable to Heavy Duty beer cans with
slots in the bottom. !
On Tue, 18 Jan 2005 09:03:27 -0600, Jared Andersson

10) From: Edward Spiegel
At 9:03 AM -0600 1/18/05, Jared Andersson wrote:
Interesting, because I did this on an old wearever pumper without a problem. I didn't widen them very much mind you.
p.s. Do note that I didn't try this until I had a backup.

11) From: Gary Townsend
Maybe I'm being a little bit cautious, but if you are in a cold
environment, you will break the cast aluminum, very easily. If it's
heated up, at least 75F or more, then you should be OK. As a practice,
( I used to be a welder, before I joined the Army (to see the world),
you need to be very careful around aluminum castings, as the other
materials in the castings themselves vary greatly, and it would be
almost impossible to fix correctly.
IME you'll break it, 9 out of 10 attempts. You could drill it out, or
use a dremmel, but I'd still warm it up, 1st!. ( Turn it on, and run
it for 3 minutes, that'll do it!)
On Tue, 18 Jan 2005 09:46:12 -0800, Edward Spiegel

12) From: Edward Spiegel
At 4:49 PM -0600 1/18/05, Gary Townsend wrote:
I wonder if there is a big difference in how different runs of Wearever Pumpers were manufactured. I was working in my garage where the ambient temp was about 62 F and there was no problem at all widening the slots by applying only a little bit of torque. Let me re-emphasize that I am talking about a very small change -- maybe 1/8". Also, I just looked into the canister and noticed that the wall of the canister vents appears to be what bent rather then the vent "fins".
All three of my pumper appear to be manufactured the same but maybe earlier ones were made of heavier aluminum.
I would not recommend trying this without a backup. And I wouldn't try to apply much torque, a small widening of the slots goes a long way.
Also, I am not advocating that people do this just sharing my own positive experience with the mod.

13) From: Jared Andersson
I have plenty of back up poppers of all flavors so i am not too
worried about a mistake.  I think the insides of our pumpers must be a
bit different because mine is like a WBI in that each fin is very
thick and backs up against the next fin.  No "wall of the canister"
exists were the fins are.  I tried looking at your great site  to see
a pic of the inside of your pumper but failed.  After trying again
just now I think that even with heating up the metal it would not be
possible to bend them any were near an 1/8 of an inch.  I think I will
add air flow from the intake somehow.  Jared
On Tue, 18 Jan 2005 17:58:15 -0800, Edward Spiegel

14) From: Gary Townsend
I'd take the dremel to my poppers (5) that have cast bases, but I just
don't have the heart to do it. Now the poppery 2 types, that's another
issue! I have 3 in surgery on my work bench, 2 have come out of
surgery for testing, I found 4 more last weekend, and they sure looked
a little nervous this afternoon. I'm going to plant 1 franken popper (
a hybrid prestolite 1440 watt heater and fan assy to a poppery 2
roasting chamber, with an all metal extension chamber) into a newer
poppery cylindricaly shaped shell. That has a modified air inlet
butterfly type valve to control the airflow going into the popper. I
am also looking at a way to recycle lost heat for winter roasting
temperatures. Only that pesky 'work' thing keeps getting in the way! I
need a research grant and a few months to work exclusively on all
these projects that are on the back-burner...
On a side note, anybody get thier hands on the German 'RoastMiester'
yet? It basically looks like a heatgun flipped upside down, and
pointed directly at a mini-screened drum. I'd love to try to make my
own version of that nifty looking machine. One major drawback is that
it takes 'specialy prepared green beans that already have the
silver-skin removed ( no chaff problems)...but you can only use the
company beans in it...like I'd never voided any manufacturer's
warrenties before...)
 Jared Andersson  wrote:

15) From: AlChemist John
Also, before you go to far in attempting this, I can tell you I have tried 
it and it has no effect.  It is not a point of restriction in this style, 
so you could remove every other fin and it would make not difference.   It 
does make a difference in the P2's and lighter poppers, just not these 
heavy cast ones.  Their restriction is on the inlet side.  Once the bottom 
is off (and maybe screened off) you are probably at the maximum.  Oh, one 
other mod I do to increase air flow is to replace the thin ungrounded cord 
with a heavy grounded one.  I know the grounding has no effect, but the 
larger cord seems to allow just a bit more power to the system.  With that, 
you just might make 200 g.  That is where I am with my WB1
Sometime around 19:23 1/18/2005, Jared Andersson typed:
I have considered adding a P2 fan to the P1 inlet.  You basically get a 
dual fan blower.  Theoretically it should give more head.  The main trick 
is to make sure it is sealed well or it will have no effect.  Unsealed, you 
would just be blowing air at it.
John Nanci 
AlChemist at large
Zen Roasting , Blending & Espresso pulling by Gestalthttp://www.dreamsandbones.net/blog/http://www.chocolatealchemy.com/

16) From: Ed Needham
I'm 'not' gonna touch that one.
Name Withheld

17) From: AlChemist John
Me neither :-)  We are talking about a 172 g "pumper" though :-)
Sometime around 06:35 1/19/2005, Ed Needham typed:
John Nanci 
AlChemist at large
Zen Roasting , Blending & Espresso pulling by Gestalthttp://www.dreamsandbones.net/blog/http://www.chocolatealchemy.com/

18) From: Jared Andersson
Gary, your project sounds great.  I hope you keep reporting on the
progress and send some pics.  I really like the idea of a custom shell
on a popper.  It would not only be original and hopefully cool looking
but it also could be designed to increase air flow as John suggests. 
On Wed, 19 Jan 2005 07:04:06 -0800, AlChemist John  wrote:

19) From: Gary Townsend
If I could find my $300. digital camera, I'd have posted pics by now!
My wife and I are losing stuff weekly at our 'new' house! Form over
function is best, however the Scooby Doo popper would cover up a lot
of hacks!
On Wed, 19 Jan 2005 09:43:34 -0600, Jared Andersson

20) From: Felix Dial
The old cast aluminimum Popperys and 1400W Wearever pumpers have fans
that run on 120V AC. Another way to increase increase air flow for
these poppers is to increase fan speed using the voltage boost
described at:http://mdmint.home.comcast.net/coffee/fancontrolproto.htmNote that this requires splitting the fan and heat circuits. Also note
that the instructions at the URL above do not apply to the p2's, 1250W
pumpers, and the new toastmaster poppers. The fans on these poppers do
not run on 120V.
On Tue, 18 Jan 2005 09:03:27 -0600, Jared Andersson

21) From: AlChemist John
And just so you know what you are getting into, if you are going to boost 
the fan, have a plan for a much larger chamber to roast in.  I boosted mine 
a couple of years ago and I could loft 300 g, and probably more, but my 
modified chamber was already full to capacity.  Being so full, and having 
so much extra boost, I was wasting too much heat and could not get too 1st 
crack.  Stalled at around 390 F.  I think a larger chamber, more beans and 
a simply light dimmer would all be very helpful.
Sometime around 19:46 1/19/2005, Felix Dial typed:
John Nanci 
AlChemist at large
Zen Roasting , Blending & Espresso pulling by Gestalthttp://www.dreamsandbones.net/blog/http://www.chocolatealchemy.com/

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