Well... I now have a digital thermometer with K type thermocouple... and trying to decide where to install it in either my air Original poppery I .. I just ordered a 10" oil lamp cylinder thanks to Michael Dhabolt...(THANKS MIKE!!) and Im going to make a new case for it all and controls.... but I have been taking temp readings with the probe and it is sporadic at best... what am I actually measuring in popper chamber?? obviously with it dangling in there not the bean mass temp...as the second I turn off popper.. the temp drops 100û no matter = how deep I put it in there... Dennis Parham
At 3:27 PM -0600 3/28/05, Dennis Parham wrote: <Snip> in there not the bean mass temp...as the second I turn off popper.. the= temp drops 100š no matter how deep I put it in there... Where do you have it placed? Is is a bead or a wand? I lower mine on a= bamboo skewer so that it is about 2/3 of the they up in the bean mass and= away from the vents (if the thermocouple is too close to the vents or the= edge, you will be heavily influenced by the canister temp and air flow). My= readings (when I was still using the thermometer) were quite consistent and= there was minimal temp drop. Mine has a bead-type thermocouple. A wand will= be more influenced by non-bean temp. The bead thermocouple is so small that= if you have it placed right it will mostly be influenced by the beans in= contact with it. I stopped using the thermometer during roasting when my nose became= better-tuned to the smell of the smoke at my preferred roast stage. I found= that the thermometer was no longer necessary. Anyway, that's my .02, Edward
Dennis, I pushed the TC through a thin piece of copper tubing to protect it from flexing. The stuff for ice maker hook up is fine. That way you can place it in different positions and clip it to the side of the chamber from the top to hold it in place. For my Turbo Beast I pushed it through the hollow shaft of a worn out deep fat turkey fryer thermometer. This is SS and even thinner! I felt that moving all around all the time would cause it to fail quicker. Hope this helps, PeterZ Dennis Parham wrote: <Snip>
--- Dennis Parham wrote: <Snip> | |/ | | <-drill hole for TC |----/| | * | <-bead at surface of green beans || This is what has worked for me: I drilled a hole in the plastic part of the chamber of P1, at an angle so the bead is at about the top center of the green beans. As the beans expand, the bead will end up a bit below the surface. You are measuring the air temp at the point of the bead. Temp probably varies quite a bit within the roast chamber, so you want to keep the probe steady in the same spot thoughout the roast. It is not a perfect solution. After all, it measures only the air temp, which will vary more than bean temp. But it still gives something to work from. Hope this helps. Andy Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Small Business - Try our new resources site!http://smallbusiness.yahoo.com/resources/
I have a section of steel tubing which passes thru the lid of my Z&D. = The tubing directs the thermocouple probe to the bean mass. I used a = similar arrangement in my HWP. Here is a link to the picture of the = modified lid:http://www.coffeegeek.com/forums/coffee/homeroast/29149?Page=2I had to use steel on the Z&D (I had tried copper) because I lost too = much heat with the copper tubing. Copper worked fine on the HWP. My guess is that copper will work well in a true fluid bed roaster where = you have heat to waste. If getting enough heat is an issue (such as in = a Z&D) avoid copper or aluminum. Phil
but I have been taking temp readings with the probe <Snip> You are measuring some kind of average of the air temp and the bean temp. You cannot know what the proportions are, and they will change constantly.