HomeRoast Digest


Topic: a newbie's experience with iRoast (4 msgs / 190 lines)
1) From: Mike Sieweke
I just finished my 16th batch with my iRoast, and I'm finally
able to extend the roast time out to 8 minutes.  I've gradually
reduced the temperature to 320 x 2min, 340 x 3min, 400 x 5min.
I may reduce it even more.
With this profile I get first crack starting almost immediately
when the third stage starts.  The last snaps end around 7:30,
with second crack coming in around 8:00.  I like to stop the
roast as soon as I hear second crack start.  After another 15
seconds I start to see divots and I know I've gone a bit too
far.
BTW - It's not all that difficult to hear first and second
crack.  They're distinctly different from the sound of
beans hitting the glass.
I guess every iRoast is different, and I think voltage has
an effect on roast time.  I'm going to experiment with
bean quantity to see how that changes things.
Is anyone else using a thermocouple with their iRoast?  What
location are you using to probe bean temperature?  And how
do you get the TC to stay put?
Mike Sieweke

2) From: Philip Keleshian
I don't have an I-roast, but I use a thermocouple with my HWP and my =
Z&D.  
I use a piece of 1/8" steel tubing passing through the lid of the roast =
chamber passing to a point about 1/4" above the bean mass with the =
roaster running. The thermocouple bead probe protrudes from the end of =
the tube into the beans.  I am using steel in the Z&D but I successfully =
used copper in the Hearthware. Steel is the better choice since it =
conducts less heat out of the chamber.  With a fluidbead such  as the =
Hearthware this is not a big deal but in the Z&D it made a difference.
I secured the tube to the lid with J&B weld.  I have no picture of the =
HWP but her is a ling to a string where my Z&D is pictured:http://www.coffeegeek.com/forums/coffee/homeroast/29149?Page=1Phil

3) From: Philip Keleshian
I need to remember to use spell check.

4) From: Mike Sieweke
Thanks Phil.  Right now the thermocouple is running
through existing holes in the lid and chaff collector.
It just flops around in the roast chamber.  I was
trying to avoid any permanent changes to the iRoast,
but it would be easier to install a tube in the lid
like you did.
You've given me an idea.  I might be able to do something
similar with stainless steel safety wire.  I just have to
figure out what to tie it to.
On May 16, 2005, at 4:02 PM, Philip Keleshian wrote:
<Snip>


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