I just finished my 16th batch with my iRoast, and I'm finally able to extend the roast time out to 8 minutes. I've gradually reduced the temperature to 320 x 2min, 340 x 3min, 400 x 5min. I may reduce it even more. With this profile I get first crack starting almost immediately when the third stage starts. The last snaps end around 7:30, with second crack coming in around 8:00. I like to stop the roast as soon as I hear second crack start. After another 15 seconds I start to see divots and I know I've gone a bit too far. BTW - It's not all that difficult to hear first and second crack. They're distinctly different from the sound of beans hitting the glass. I guess every iRoast is different, and I think voltage has an effect on roast time. I'm going to experiment with bean quantity to see how that changes things. Is anyone else using a thermocouple with their iRoast? What location are you using to probe bean temperature? And how do you get the TC to stay put? Mike Sieweke
I don't have an I-roast, but I use a thermocouple with my HWP and my = Z&D. I use a piece of 1/8" steel tubing passing through the lid of the roast = chamber passing to a point about 1/4" above the bean mass with the = roaster running. The thermocouple bead probe protrudes from the end of = the tube into the beans. I am using steel in the Z&D but I successfully = used copper in the Hearthware. Steel is the better choice since it = conducts less heat out of the chamber. With a fluidbead such as the = Hearthware this is not a big deal but in the Z&D it made a difference. I secured the tube to the lid with J&B weld. I have no picture of the = HWP but her is a ling to a string where my Z&D is pictured:http://www.coffeegeek.com/forums/coffee/homeroast/29149?Page=1Phil
I need to remember to use spell check.
Thanks Phil. Right now the thermocouple is running through existing holes in the lid and chaff collector. It just flops around in the roast chamber. I was trying to avoid any permanent changes to the iRoast, but it would be easier to install a tube in the lid like you did. You've given me an idea. I might be able to do something similar with stainless steel safety wire. I just have to figure out what to tie it to. On May 16, 2005, at 4:02 PM, Philip Keleshian wrote: <Snip>