Hi all- I am looking for some advice on roasting coffee (possibly outdoors) through a Chicago winter. We just moved in to a new house (actually an old house) and there are no outlets outside. I have been roasting outside because the smells have been setting the smoke alarms off and we have a small house. Anyone have any creative ideas? Debbie
Hi, Debbie, I live on the far N. Side (Edgewater). I began roasting in July. I roast outdoors on my deck, using an i-Roast and an extension cord, which gets plugged into an outlet in my kitchen near the screen door (the door of course does not close completely, since the cord prevents it from doing so). I've never roasted outdoors in cold weather, so I suspect that the roasts will probably take much longer. I suppose I could also use my gas grill and a cast iron skillet and whisk. On Oct 17, 2005, at 3:15 PM, Debbie Kong wrote: <Snip> Sandy Andina www.sandyandina.com
On 10/17/05, Debbie Kong wrote: <Snip> gh <Snip> ) <Snip> ke <Snip> I'm here in Northwest Indiana and I made it through last winter okay. I did smoke the raccoon out of the shed once; I hope he finds some other place to hibernate this year. I spent last winter with my pumper covered up in an empty diaper box. It worked well enough in the tool shed. I played around with the flaps to get the right amount of recirculation. I had a thermocouple on the air intake and tried to establish a temp that was at least above 60F before bean drop. I doubt very seriously you could get any roaster to go up against the wind; you will still need to find a sheltered space, especially in Chicago. Matthew
--Apple-Mail-22-954950600 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Type: text/plain; charset -ASCII; delsp=yes; format=flowed Hmmm......maybe a cardboard carton with a hole cut big enough for the vent hose and a layer of fiberglass batting to keep the box from catching fire due to the heat of the hose. Guess I'd better head to Home Depot for the hose and batting, On Oct 17, 2005, at 4:47 PM, Matthew Price wrote: <Snip> Sandy Andina www.sandyandina.com --Apple-Mail-22-954950600 Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Content-Type: text/html; charset O-8859-1 Hmmm......maybe a cardboard = carton with a hole cut big enough for the vent hose and a layer of = fiberglass batting to keep the box from catching fire due to the heat of = the hose. Guess I'd better head to Home Depot for the hose and = batting, On Oct 17, 2005, at 4:47 PM, Matthew Price = wrote:
Debbie Kong wrote: <Snip> If you haven't done it already, you could try putting a box fan inside a window and setting up your roasting gear right in front of that on a table or rack, and roast with the fan on. That way the smoke will be pulled straight out. When the roast completes you can use the same fan to cool, unless you already have a better method for that (such as the shop-vac/bucket/colander method.)
I have noticed that when I run the Rosto and have the HEPA + Carbon-filter blower running nearby that the smoke seems to be reduced and the roasting smell is more contained. 'course I don't mind the smell of roasting smoke that much. Dean Roasting in the basement for nearly 2 years now In the weeds in Iowa Debbie Kong wrote: <Snip>
<Snip> I'd figure that if you were going to try to use an i-Roast outdoors in Chicago in the winter time, you'd have to start it indoors, then take it outside while it was running, or put it into a cardboard box indoors, and take that outdoors warm - I've got one of those beasties, too, and they really don't like to start unless they're pretty warm! (BTW, the box would probably be a good idea, anyway, just to keep the ambient temps up and avoid stalled roasts.) I live in Colorado Springs, and it's already gotten cold enough here last week (snowed 3") that I needed to park it on top of a heater vent for a while, since the ambient temp in my house had gotten below ~65F or so, which appears to be the "magic" temp... I usually roast in my garage, whatever the time of year, but I have been known to do it in my kitchen, in front of a box fan in front of the window over the sink, as well; if I were to use this technique in really cold conditions, I'd probably want to use the dryer-hose attachment (possibly with an in-line fan to encourage it along) attached to a board or something in front of the window - that way, I'd be pretty sure that just about all of the smoke would depart the premises. It's probably just as well that I wasn't roasting back in '98 (I think), when the blizzard dumped 2 feet of snow over the whole town in about 8 hours (w/ winds like you're used to)... James
My garage is freestanding and unheated--perhaps I'll roast in the basement and vent it out the dryer hose. On Oct 17, 2005, at 11:47 PM, James Pratt wrote: <Snip> Sandy Andina www.sandyandina.com
Debbie, I see you have received a lot of good advice on winter roasting in the = Windy city. I lived in northern Indiana and was able to roast in my garage = during the winter. After several years I came up with a much better winter = roasting solution. We moved to Florida! Terry
I have an iRoast also and found that it won't even start if the temp is below about 65°F unless you preheat it. I remove the roasting chamber and point a hair dryer (not my heat gun) down the hole for about 20 - 30 seconds to heat the thermocouple and then replace the roast chamber and set the program and roast. I live in the Virginia Beach area of VA and successfully roasted in my unheated garage (vented out the window) in temperatures as low as 25°F last winter. The only stalled roast I ever had was with some decaf (which is always hit & miss in the iRoast anyway). I also had no problem roasting HG/DB in these conditions in my garage. It got a little smoky if I roasted with the door closed, so I would open the door prior to 2nd crack and kept the smoke to an acceptable (for me) level inside the garage. If you're running a long extension cord outside to run your iRoast, you'll probably have some kind of voltage drop, so best to use a variac to maintain 120v. Good luck, Jerry Sandy Andina wrote: <Snip>
I apparently have one of the i-Roasts that runs hot; I've never been = able to go the full nine minutes on Preset 1 or ten minutes on #2 unless I'm using a very long cord plugged into one of the weaker outlets (the one by the door). Never ever stalled a roast--and decaf = has come out great every time. Couple of nights ago I roasted out on the deck at 45 degrees....without a hitch. On Oct 18, 2005, at 4:18 AM, Jerry Procopio wrote: <Snip> <Snip> <Snip> <Snip> <Snip> <Snip> Sandy Andina www.sandyandina.com
Blow hot air into the I-roast when it won't start in winter. I've had it work into the low 20's. If you started out with the unit prewarmed inside it wouldn't take much to get it going. I literally just put my mouth over the hot air vent opening in the base and blow a couple of quick breaths into the machine and it starts every time. fjm
Does anyone have any knowledge of a filter that will truly work on both the visual and non-visual components of coffee roasting "smoke". I know the Hottop has one, but I see smoke coming from it also, so it is not that effective (or maybe way full). Electro-static maybe? At 16:47 10/17/2005, you wrote: <Snip> John Nanci AlChemist at large Zen Roasting , Blending & Espresso pulling by Gestalthttp://www.chocolatealchemy.com/
<Snip> I live in a 2-family house. There are two dryer outlets in the cellar. I started roasting down there, and I use one of the dryer outlets over my WEPP to get rid of the smoke and the chaff. I'm still in the development stage, but so far, so good. My main concern at the moment is that the exhaust is around 350-400 degrees, and the dryer hose isn't built for anything like that. Currently, I use a flexible hose, but I'm thinking it would be safer to switch over to a rigid pipe. I know that the flexible hose can catch dryer lint and cause a fire, and I'm concerned about chaff doing the same thing. What would be optimal is a rigid pipe studded with heat sinks, so that the heat would stay in the house, and so that the pipe would have cooled off by the time it reaches the place it goes through the side of the house. I'll keep you posted.
The Zach and Danys roaster uses a catalytic filter to remove most of the smoke. Works well on the small 3-4oz. batch sizes. Bigger than that, I'd guess the technology would be too expensive for a homeroaster. Large roasters use an afterburner setup where the residual combustibles in the smoke are burned after they exit the roaster. That takes more gas or electric though. I've never heard of one small enough to use on a home unit. ********************* Ed Needham "to absurdity and beyond!" ed at homeroaster dot com (include [FRIEND] somewhere in the subject line of any email correspondence) *********************
You've seen the flexible metal 4" dryer hose, right? Wouldn't that meet your needs? I would not use a dryer vent that has any dryer lint left in it. Hot chaff embers and dryer lint would be a terrible fire hazard. ********************* Ed Needham "to absurdity and beyond!" ed at homeroaster dot com (include [FRIEND] somewhere in the subject line of any email correspondence) *********************
On Oct 18, 2005, at 11:02 am, Ed Needham wrote: <Snip> The Cafe Rosto Pro 1500, which handles batches of up to 3 pounds, uses a catalytic converter (I recall reading this somewhere but can't recall where), but, of course, it probably falls in the "too expensive for a homeroaster" category for most of us. John Blumel
Electrostatic precipitators work well enoguh to be used on coal power plant exhaust stacks. (yes I know ther are still dirty, but Image how bad it would be without the filters). They have been around a long (since early 1900's invented by an engineer named Frederick Cottrell) have no moving parts and should last forever. All you need as a corona discharge to charge the smoke and pass the smoke between tho biased plates. You would have to balance the charge on the plates to the velocity of the air/smoke going by. At the end of the roast wipe the plates of and you are ready to go for the next batch. Or even better yet you can use a magnetic field and build youself a little smoke cyclotron. Alchemist John wrote: Does anyone have any knowledge of a filter that will truly work on both the visual and non-visual components of coffee roasting "smoke". I know the Hottop has one, but I see smoke coming from it also, so it is not that effective (or maybe way full). Electro-static maybe? At 16:47 10/17/2005, you wrote: <Snip> John Nanci AlChemist at large Zen Roasting , Blending & Espresso pulling by Gestalthttp://www.chocolatealchemy.com/--------------------------------- Yahoo! Music Unlimited - Access over 1 million songs. Try it free.
<Snip> And the following report from website complaints.com really makes me wonder about this company. Sounds like way too much fun for $6-$7K... Gene Smith riding the wild learning curve, in Houston RE: Brightway Pro 1500 Cafe Rosto Coffee Roaster - 3 bean fires, broken solenoids, squeaks, bad rom modules, many problems We had 3 scary bean fires in this product and one almost took out our building! During a 6 month period of time with 2 machines we also had an incredible, unbelievable, absolutely nightmarish repair record of 32 repairs performed, some of which were simply not fixable. They were a colorful assortment of fried Solenoids, horrible squeaks, bad halogen heating bulbs, program errors in the panel, bad rom modules, faulty electronic scale, sticky doors, bad bean auger, broken feet, faulty wiring, moisture buildup, pins falling out of the drive shaft, blah, blah, blah, blah, blah. If you want to roast your own coffee for your store there are other roasters out there. We found and are using a Syd & Jerry's at one store and a Roastmaster at the other. Both are absolutely wonderful compared to Brightway's big chunk of Korean plastic and tin. I have a friend that likes his Probat. I wouldn't wish this unit on my worst enemy. Really!
At 12:15 PM 10/18/2005, you wrote: > >
Sounds like you are talking about one of those Sharper Image Ionic Breeze thingies. The demo they do on TV where they put one in a box filled with smoke and it eats it up in seconds is sure impressive. I bet it would handle the smoke well enough, but perhaps the chaff would still be a problem. They do cost less than a Hot Top, but could be a bit pricey for a home roaster, unless you already have one, and are willing to build some duct work so it will have a good shot at getting most of the smoke. I wonder if using it to clean up coffee roasting would void the warrantee? PeterZ STephen niezgoda wrote: <Snip>
Agreed, $5500 will get you an Ambex 5 pounder.
On 10/18/05, John Blumel wrote: <Snip> I just got around to following the links. I wonder if they have a web page that isn't in pigin? Also, the photoshopped coffee cart at the bottom is a (not very) nice touch. That's not a company I'm going to trust a business to.
--Apple-Mail-34-1034027564 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Type: text/plain; charset -ASCII; delsp=yes; format=flowed Problem is that it generates ozone (unless you spring for the newer model with the ozone-to-oxygen convertor), which is a greater lung irritant than coffee smoke. Wonder if a HEPA filter in the room might help? On Oct 18, 2005, at 12:48 PM, Peter Zulkowski wrote: <Snip> Sandy Andina www.sandyandina.com --Apple-Mail-34-1034027564 Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Content-Type: text/html; charset O-8859-1 Problem is that it generates = ozone (unless you spring for the newer model with the ozone-to-oxygen = convertor), which is a greater lung irritant than coffee smoke. = Wonder if a HEPA filter in the room might help? On Oct 18, = 2005, at 12:48 PM, Peter Zulkowski wrote:
HEPA filter does help. I use a Honeywell home air purifier. It's kind of loud but really does a great job of eliminating odors and dust in a short time. Fanless "quiet" machines do not move the air and, if they do anything to clean the air, it takes a long time. Anything that moves the air through a filter will do the job more quickly. -- Brent Roasting in an SC/TO Espressing myself in a LaPavoni (and drip/moka/presspots) On 10/18/05, Sandy Andina wrote: <Snip> n <Snip>
Sandy, I've got one of the hot ones too, but it still seems to have a mind of it's own when it comes to decaf. For Regular beans using the profile: 2 min @ 340°, 3 min @ 390° and 6 min @ 450°, I usually don't get much past 3 minutes of stage 3 without having to manually end the roast. All my roasts are 5.3 ounces and roast maintained @ 120v using a variac and digital multimeter. Jerry Sandy Andina wrote: <Snip>
I use preset 1 most of the time, and I usually hit second crack (FC) between 5-1/2 and 6 minutes in. On a rare occasion (and usually the first roast of the day, with a 1-cup roast, I can get FC or FC+ to about 7 minutes. 8 minutes is always Vienna+ or even French (blecch). For Vienna, I prefer preset 2 which is longer and slightly = lower. But I roast nearly everything these days between City and FC +. Only roast I ever took to French was my first batch of Donkey, it = wasn't awful (still better than Charbux) but it works better at Vienna. (Decaf Red Line works best at FC-FC+). On Oct 18, 2005, at 10:54 PM, Jerry Procopio wrote: <Snip> <Snip> <Snip> <Snip> <Snip> <Snip> <Snip> <Snip> <Snip> <Snip> Sandy Andina www.sandyandina.com
I will look into that. At 09:37 10/18/2005, you wrote: <Snip> John Nanci AlChemist at large Zen Roasting , Blending & Espresso pulling by Gestalthttp://www.chocolatealchemy.com/
<Snip> What I'm currently using (simply because it was already there) is the 4 inch flexible shiny dryer hose which is basically a long coil of springy wire with mylar or some other shiny plastic glued to it. This is the stuff which is reputed to trap lint and cause fires. Luckily, it only forms a vertical portion of the outlet. Therfe is a 90 degree bend between the flexi-hose and the solid metal part which goes throught he wall. <Snip> Damn good advice. I should get the shop vac on it to be sure. The whole thing is only about 4 feet long, so cleaning it should be trivial.
My dryer's vent hose is galvanized aluminum. Home Depot carries it. On Oct 19, 2005, at 1:07 PM, David B. Westebbe wrote: <Snip> Sandy Andina www.sandyandina.com
I second the motion for flexible metal hose. The stuff is cheap at home stores, it's sturdy, it won't melt, burn, etc. However, if I was you I wouldn't use your dryer outlet to vent unless you had a way of cooling the roaster exhaust and filtering out any bits of burning chaff. I can guarantee that the 90-degree bend and the thing in the wall of your house has lint trapped in it, and I can also guarantee that a shop-vac won't get it all. Furthermore, since it's in the wall of your house, if it catches fire you can't get an extinguisher to it and you can't pull it loose. Oolan Zimmer ozimmer at (please don't spam me) softhome dot net