well, i just finished the 'beta' version of my new roaster. i use a zach and dani's for my regular roasts, but i've been wanting to switch to a method whereby i can roast a pound at a time. don't get me wrong, if z and d made a one pound roaster, i'd buy two of them today. but for now i've been tinkering with my convection oven top. anyway, i had tried a co setup before, using a skillet and rotisserie motor in a typical oven-on-top configuration. this proved ineffective due to poor agitation of the beans by my slow (3 rpm) motor. i figured that a drum setup might provide better agitation. so here's what i came up with. take a look if you get a chance. i'd appreciate your comments.http://www.flickr.com/photos/drakejohnand click on the 'new roaster' set.">http://www.flickr.com/photos/drakejohn/sets/1743893/or, if that doesn't work tryhttp://www.flickr.com/photos/drakejohnand click on the 'new roaster' set. the first roast was somewhat uneven. the oven provides plenty of heat, but there's a design flaw with my four fins. the inner canister isn't a true cylinder, and therefore there's a gap between them and the sides allowing some beans to just slide around at the bottom. i'm going to remove them, cut them up, and try multiple one-inch wide fins riveted to the sides. this should also help compensate for the slow motor. my half-pound test batch got to c1 in 9 minutes and was well into second crack by 12 minutes. now i just need to work on a cooling system... john
John, I love it. Some really unique ideas and concepts. Be sure to keep us updated on this. Have you been considering temperature indication?? What is your thinking on this? Mike (just plain - in awe)
Great set up John! I love how you can dump it easily and fill it easily:) What kind of CO are you using? Wattage? You could replace that shallow tray underneath with a deeper one that has a screened bottom, with a fan under it sucking or blowing air through. Just an idea. PeterZ john wrote: <Snip>
It looks like a Decosonic 1200W. I just did my first SC/TO roast with one this afternoon. I would recommend removing the thermostat on the CO and us= e either a simple on/off switch or a variac to control the heat. With the stock thermostat I could not get to first crack on a 1/2lb roast. On 1/3/06, Peter Zulkowski wrote: <Snip> . <Snip>
<Snip> Gee, John...that thing is just full of clever ideas. Well done! Gene Smith riding the wild learning curve, in Houston
john wrote: well, i just finished the 'beta' version of my new roaster. John, I like your innovation! Very nice *beta* rig !~! Gary -- Advertising is the art of convincing people to spend money they don't have for something they don't need. Will Rogers
On |Jan 3, at 2:38 PM|Jan 3, john wrote: <Snip> Oh, man, that is SO slick! The only real problem I can think of is the beans getting caught in the wire mesh when you dump them. That is, not flowing out of the hole in the middle. I would think you would have to make the end more conical so there would be no "lip" for the beans to fall on. Other than that, this is really ingenious. Your word for today is: PATENT. Scot "I'll invest $20 toward your company" Murphy --------------- "None are more hopelessly enslaved than those who falsely believe they are free." -- JOHANN WOLFGANG VON GOETHE
hey guys, thanks for all your kind words!! now, if i can just get my head back down to size i can respond to a couple of questions. the convection oven is labeled 'jion loen'. i think i remember that my mom bought it at a kitchen expo quite a few years ago. after getting into roasting last year, i called her up to see if she still had it. sure enough, out in the barn and covered with several layers of dust, there it was... still working. as far as temperature indication and regulation, i just wanted to see if it would work first. i've thought about adding a vent for control, but judging from the times i probably don't want to lose much heat. i've got a cheap stick-type barbeque thermometer, but i'm a little stumped about where to put it. peter, i like your idea about having a cooling tray under the unit. i think i'll head that direction. i'd like to come up with a way to suck up the chaff in the process. thanks again, everyone! i'll keep y'all posted. john
Pretty cool. Innovative design. Now... -Will the motor need to be insulated from the hot drum so it doesn't prematurely go kaput? -Can you make a perforated cooling tray with a blower beneath that will suck the heat from the beans after they are dumped? The blower could actually be configured to suck smoke out and exhaust it through a vent hose. -Maybe add a handle to the top of the thing to move the drum around without gloves? -There are stainless steel food canisters at WalMart that you could use for a cylindrical drum. The wire bail type lid easily comes off to leave a perfect cylinder. The machine and the photography really look great. ********************* Ed Needham "to absurdity and beyond!" ed at homeroaster dot com (include [FRIEND] somewhere in the subject line of any email correspondence) *********************
Dude, You are quite the craftsman. "If the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy." Red Green. Ed beat me to the suggestion of a handle. I do have a couple of questions. You mentioned fencing wire used to hold the screen in place. Is this galvanized? Galvanized metal gives off a toxic gas when heated. How well can you see the beans? I'm a very novice newbie and my only experience is with popcorn poppers and I use sight and sound more than anything to try and determine the degree of the roast. One question posed was how to isolate the motor from the heat to prolong it's life span. What about the nylon washer? Do you believe it will have any longevity? Again dude, you are quite the craftsman.
That is a sweet design. Kudos. What is the outer shell made of? Aluminum pot? My only suggestion is insulation. It can make quite a bit of difference in control during different ambient temperatures. At 13:59 1/3/2006, you wrote: <Snip> John Nanci AlChemist at large Zen Roasting , Blending & Espresso pulling by Gestalthttp://www.chocolatealchemy.com/
John - way to go... It's a beauty! Sorry it took me so long to get around to view it... Brett On 1/3/06, john wrote: <Snip> and <Snip> de <Snip> or <Snip> oor <Snip> . <Snip> ut <Snip> his <Snip> ribes) go tohttp://sweetmarias.com/maillistinfo.html#personalsettings<Snip> -- Regards, Brett Mason HomeRoast __]_ _(( )_ Please don't spill the coffee!
thanks again for all your suggestions... i can't wait to carve out time to get back out to the garage! i hope it's ok to combine responses. i don't seem to get back to my computer so often lately. JUST KEEP SCROLLING! ----- 1 ----- From: "Ed Needham" Sent: Tuesday, January 03, 2006 11:52 PM <Snip> - i tried to keep a close eye on the motor housing as i was roasting. much of it is plastic. it seems that the gears and such are situated on the far side of the housing. also, there are 1/2 inch spacers between the housing and the metal bucket (it's actually a ss waste can from walmart). it stayed pretty cool considering it's proximity. <Snip> - i like that idea A LOT. i want to incorporate some kind of mechanism to separate the chaff from the beans, too. i might need a bigger shop vac ;). i made a cooling tray for my zach and dani's like what you're describing. it's a round cake pan that i drilled a ton of holes in and mounted in a wooden box. i attach a shop vac to it which sucks air through the beans. but, it's just big enough for the 1/4 pound batches. plus, i want something inetgrate to the frame... like what you're suggesting. <Snip> - i had planned on putting a handle up there using that exposed nut/bolt from the support eye bolt, but i couldn't find one that fit just right. for now i'm using the motor as a handle, but i'm afraid that over time that will weaken the mounting screws. i'd like to find something that looks like a frying pan handle, about 6 inches long. ----- 2 ----- From: "Todd Musselwhite" Sent: Wednesday, January 04, 2006 12:51 AM <Snip> - ugh... need to fix that. i couldn't find my copper wire, so i just used what i could find. uh... copper's ok, right? <Snip> - if you use a light, you can see through the glass ring of the convection oven top to the beans. this is nice early on, but after that it was time, sound and smell. <Snip> - i think it's ok, but i'm going to keep an eye on it. it seemed to stay pretty cool... to my surprise. ----- 3 ----- From: "Alchemist John" Sent: Wednesday, January 04, 2006 7:10 AM <Snip> - the outer shell is a ss waste can from walmart. the inner canister is also ss and from walmart. like ed was saying, maybe i should have used the true cylindrical canister instead of the bell-shaped one. <Snip> - that's a good point. i roast in my garage, but the bigger factor is that my garage is in southeast texas. it hasn't been cold since before christmas, so i'll have to wait to see how it will stand up to lower temps. what would you suggest as an insulator? also, is there soft, safe, 1/4 tubing that i could cut long-ways and fit around the top of the outer bucket as a seal to the co top? thanks again, everyone, for your help! sorry for the long post. john
I'm wondering if this design, with the heat coming from the side, might not result in the heat being "trapped" in the upper part of the drum and not enough getting "under" the beans. Since you mention the Z&D roaster, have you thought of making a "king-sized" version of it? The CO could be pointing upward, sending the heat around an auger, agitating/lifting the beans through the heat. Of course, with the wider auger in this roaster, the beans coming in contact with the hot metal would be heated from conduction as well as by the flow of hot air. The best (worst?) of both worlds.? Also, the outer container could be of various materials, clear and/or opaque. It could also be insulated, thereby needing less heat. I'm not too clear as to how the motor might be connected to the auger. It seems that it would need to be kept out of the air flow, so maybe a belt or chain would be necessary... Just some thoughts... Ciao, A+ <Snip>
wow, angelo, that's a great idea! i never thought of it that way. hmm. great. just when i get one built, i have to start over! ;) john