Folks, I had a scary situation with my exisiting roaster (a Freshroast +8) tonight in that the heating element came on while the unit was supposed to be off. Thanfully, I was just putting the roast chamber back on after dumping, so I saw it happen without anything bad resulting. I'm going to call Freshbeans, inc. in the morning to see what they say, but I think I am just barely out of their warranty period. So, I expect I may need a new roaster, and, as a result of the fact that when we moved a couple of miles this summer we ended up with a little more line voltage than we had before, with attendant shorter roast cycles in the freshroast, I'm considering moving up to an IRoast. I am, however, concerned about how loud it is. I've been known to have to do my roasting after my apprentice roaster (my 2 year old daughter) is in bed. The Freshroast isn't loud enough to disturb her, but if the Iroast is say at the level of a vacuum cleaner, an Iroast might. So, how loud is an Iroast? Thanks, David Matz
David, The iRoast2 is very loud. Though I am in a minority, based on feedback o= n this list, I cannot hear the cracks, though I have no trouble hearing both 1st and 2nd on my FreshRoast+8. (I do have some hearing loss, so your results will likely vary.) Vacuum cleaner noise level isn't far off, IMHO. It is, however, a very nice roaster, with much greater capacity and control= , and roast times on my iRoast are about double what I get on the FreshRoast, even though I toggle the heat on and off manually on the FR+8 to slow it down. I've only been using the iRoast for a couple of months so am still learning its ins and outs but I do like it, despite the noise. Larry On 4/12/06, David Matz wrote: <Snip> o <Snip> am <Snip> s <Snip> e, <Snip> 2 <Snip> b <Snip>
On 4/12/06, David Matz wrote: <Snip> It is pretty darned loud. I would agree with Larry that it isn't far off vacuum cleaner loud. I seem to be able to discern the cracks okay, but only by paying very close attention. I actually hear the cracks better if I'm in the other room :-) Good Luck! Aaron Peterson Versailles, KY
People must have really quiet vacuum's these days, i would liken it more to Dustbuster loud, and without the easily breakable air hose attachment on i can easily pick up the cracks. I roast in the kitchen directly below my daughters bedroom and once she is asleep i have never woken her up, also my 2 year old son hasn't woken up either so take that for what its worth. (i dont know if woken is a word, but i figure you get the gist) Woody -- "Good night, and Good Coffee"
"I expect I may need a new roaster" -Not! Not! Not! David- no no new roaster is necessary! ! ! If you just call Fresh Beans and relate your story, if they have even a roo= m temperature IQ, or can fog a mirror, they will just send you replacement timer/ switches The mechanical timer turns a cam that operates microswitches to turn the motor and heater on and off. It's a simple machine, and due to the wiring, if either switch shorts while the roaster is plugged in, that device (heate= r or blower motor) will run. The motor uses a section of Nichrome in the heater as ballast, so it produces a little heat whenever the motor runs. I've never had any problem with mine, but I looked to see what it looks lik= e without problems- why, I don't know because I'll never remember it. Hmmm- Maybe I'm not even remembering it now, so there, I just took it apart again= . Totally easy- With a new #2 Phillips screwdriver, magnetized so it will hold the screws when you take them out and especially when you button it up again, remove the two screws in the recessed holes in the bottom of the roaster. Now you have two major pieces- the bottom of the base, which has the timer/switches and wiring- and the top of the base with the heater and blower. Pull the knob and two more #2 Phillips screws, and you can look right at th= e timer and switches. The switches are "Not Replaceable." Hooey! They're sitting on plastic studs that are melted over at the ends to retain the switches. Careful X-Acto knife work will remove the plastic blobs, and you can probably find replacement switches at Radio Shack or an appliance repair parts store. Just match the current rating. (14A, and they're probably both the same- I could only read the motor switch.) There is a game you can play if you can't find a switch with adequate ratings. It's called Use a diac and triac to unload the switch contacts. Cheers -RayO, aka Opa! Got Grinder?
On 4/12/06, David Matz wrote: <Snip> Very. Add my voice to the chorus of "vacuum cleaner is pretty close/about right". I have had both an iRoast 1 & 2. The 1 was loud. The 2 is even louder. Add on our stove's high-volume exhaust fan and the noise level in the kitchen is ... impressive.
Ray, Thanks for the information. I'll keep that in mind as a backup. Since you've seen the inside of the Freshroast, would it be concievable that a broken part of a coffee bean that snuck down into the electronics and wirin= g by getting out of the roast chamber and down through where the heating element is could cause a short? I noticed that mine was making some noise from inside when I was taking a look at the screws you'd mentioned and shoo= k it a little and out came a bit of a broken coffee bean and it seemed to be working fine after that. Thanks, David On 4/12/06, raymanowen wrote: <Snip> , <Snip> ter <Snip> e <Snip> th <Snip>
David, I guess you answered your own question, and it surprises me. There are really no "electronics" in the FR models. Just two microswitches (motor, heater) and a wind-up escapement that turns the cam. I don't think a coffee bean has any significant conductivity, and I can onl= y imagine a perfect sized chunk getting caught in the Off divot in the motor cam to keep the motor running. You saw what you saw, and it could recur, so keep your eye on it whenever the roaster is plugged in. Cheers -RayO, aka Opa! Got Grinder? On 4/13/06, David Matz wrote: <Snip> ing <Snip> e <Snip> ook <Snip> e <Snip>