HomeRoast Digest


Topic: SC/TO Reliability? (10 msgs / 275 lines)
1) From: Steve Hay
All,
Has anyone here had any issues with the TO burning out on their SC/TO
setup?  I'm looking into building one of these to augment my iRoast2...
Hoping I can get up to 1# with it.
Also, do I need anything else besides a screwdriver, wire clippers and
electrical tape, in terms of tools?  I'm guessing a dremel to drill holes i=
n
the aluminum thingy which home depot hopefully has..
-- 
Steven Hay
hay.steve -AT- gmail.com
Barry Paradox: Consider k to be the greatest element of the set of natural
numbers whose description require maximum of 50 words: "(k+1) is a natural
number which requires more than 50 words to describe it."

2) From: Bob
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
Steve,
Yes, sort of - I burnt out a Sunpentown TO after about 1 1/2 years of =
weekly roasting of three 3/4# roasts. Likely it was a combination of =
chaff, heat and smoke. I don't think any of the TO's are designed for =
mulitple sessions over 18 months. The handle almost melted and then came =
apart, the temp control quit working and the fan finally stopped. Worked =
that sucker into the ground.
However, other than replacing the plastic shaft on the SC portion with a =
deep socket and wire arms, there has been no issue there.
A simple substitution to the "aluminum thingy" is a metal yardstick. =
Drill some holes in it and you should be fine.
Bob

3) From: Peter Schmidt
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
Steve,
I use two of the SC/TO's, and for 18 months have averaged 10lbs. per =
week.  No problems.  10lbs. takes me about two hours, and many times =
both roasters are going for 3 and 4 hours.  No problems.
My favorite mod is to take the yardstick, bend it and cut it to length =
so that there is about .5" overlap.  Screw it to the SC base, leaving =
the last third of the spacer unsecured.  The tension keeps it closed.  A =
small stick (or anything with a notch) can be used to prop it open.  =
Make sure overlap is in the direction of convection's swirl.
This mod gives great control over the roast- Open for chaff removal, =
closed for heat retention, open to let heat out, and so on.  With this =
open/close spacer I can maintain a temp exactly where I want it.  Plus =
it deposits the chaff into a neat pile.
Roasting in the shade, in M'waukee....
peter
ginal Message ----- 
  From: Bob 
  To: homeroast 
  Sent: Sunday, May 14, 2006 10:04 AM
  Subject: Re: +SC/TO Reliability?
  Steve,
  Yes, sort of - I burnt out a Sunpentown TO after about 1 1/2 years of =
weekly roasting of three 3/4# roasts. Likely it was a combination of =
chaff, heat and smoke. I don't think any of the TO's are designed for =
mulitple sessions over 18 months. The handle almost melted and then came =
apart, the temp control quit working and the fan finally stopped. Worked =
that sucker into the ground.
  However, other than replacing the plastic shaft on the SC portion with =
a deep socket and wire arms, there has been no issue there.
  A simple substitution to the "aluminum thingy" is a metal yardstick. =
Drill some holes in it and you should be fine.
  Bob

4) From: Demian Ebert
My two cents as far as to tools. I used an aluminum ruler for the spacer an=
d
needed a drill to put holes in that. Also a hacksaw and pliers to cut a
chaff-ejection slot will be helpfull but not required. The majority of
modificatins depend on what you do for the center shaft. I melted the
original on the first roast (even with the copper cap). I used the
epoxy-socket-bolt mod that was posted a while ago. That required I enlarge
the drive shaft hole in the plastic base. The dremel was perfect for this,
although you could use a drill. I have pictures of some of these if you're
interested.
I'm up to about 45 roasts with it so far and am pleased with the volume of
beans and quality. I'm doing about 250 grams per roast most of the time. I
did several 300 gram roasts but the seemed uneven, so I backed off to 250.
I'm sure it would do a pound (about 450 grams) without too much trouble.
Good luck
Demian
On 5/14/06, Steve Hay  wrote:
 Also, do I need anything else besides a screwdriver, wire clippers
and electrical tape, in terms of tools?  I'm guessing a dremel to drill
holes in the aluminum thingy which home depot hopefully has..

5) From: Steve Hay
On 5/14/06, Demian Ebert  wrote:
<Snip>
I got what hopefully is a kind of old one that is more beefy.http://i22.ebayimg.com/03/i/07/12/df/d6_1.JPG$0.01 on ebay. :)  Of course shipping was about $16, but it was easier than
picking through thrift stores here (which are usually pretty ravaged)
So hopefully I wont have to do the shaft mod.  Are people with good
experience using the Suppentown-200* ?
-- 
Steven Hay
hay.steve -AT- gmail.com
Barry Paradox: Consider k to be the greatest element of the set of natural
numbers whose description require maximum of 50 words: "(k+1) is a natural
number which requires more than 50 words to describe it."

6) From: James House
You can buy those exact SC's at Target for about 25-30 bucks.  Not as cheap
as you might get at a thrift store but I spent a couple hours and lots of
gas so unless you are really hurting for a few bucks Target is your friend.
I picked up a  1/16" x 1 1/2" aluminum strip at Lowes.  Made the Woz, I
highly recommend it.  I replaced the entire shaft with all metal parts and
added the barrier strip terminals to the arms.
I have only roasted a few pounds so far but I like it, considering how
inexpensive it is to roast up to a pound or more at a time.
-james
On 5/14/06, Steve Hay  wrote:
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7) From: Woody DeCasere
Mine is not a supentown, but some other generic turbo cooker, it is working
great, as for the shaft melting, thats odd, all i have is a copper cap and
mine doesnt even get soft, so who knows?? I would also say the price is
right for building or replacing, so even if you had to replace a part after
a year or so this is not so prohibitive as to keep you from making the SC/T=
O
Woody
-- 
"Good night, and Good Coffee"

8) From: James House
Yeah I agree.  The SC is 30 bucks new, and the Sunpentown you can purchase
just the cooker for 35-40.  If I get a year or two out of it and several
hundred roasts, I got my money out of it I think.
On 5/15/06, Woody DeCasere  wrote:
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9) From: Tom Bellhouse
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
Where did you find the cooker part of the Sumpentown alone?
I replaced my shaft on the SC after the plactic became brittle and broke =
off.  I think it's pretty indestructable now.  If I have a worry, it's =
the motor/fan that turns the shaft.  Seems kinda puny, but then it's not =
doing much work and it's pretty far from the heat source.  ( I =
disconnected the SC heating element.)
Tom in GA

10) From: James House
Go to the Parts section on the Sunpentown website, and then click on "Parts
and accessories for ovens".http://www.sunpentown.com/paacforov.htmlUnfortunately I didnt see this until I ordered the entire unit from NewEgg,
so I have this huge glass bowl.
On 5/15/06, Tom Bellhouse  wrote:
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