well..I finally found the thermosiphon tube I need to fix my espresso machine! hooked everything up... turned on tap... things started to move and groove.. then..... water kept filling right out of the top releif valve... 4 little holes on the big ugly pressure relief ( I think ) just kept running out.. the faster I turned on tap the faster it would squirt out if this valve.... any suggestions?? Dennis
Dennis - Some one on the list with a Faema Compact in hand can give you better advice, but it does sound like the solenoid valve which switches the incoming water from the HX loop to fill the boiler is stuck in the fill position. Normally, plumbed-in water routes directly through the pump, into the HX loop, and out the grouphead when brewing. However, there is a sensor, controller, and solenoid valve arrangment to auto-fill the boiler.If the solenoid valve sticks open, water fills the boiler and then overflows out the relief valve. Trace the incoming plumbing, the solenoid is often a smallish, square box with a threaded 'tower' sticking up and two wires coming off it. I've had good luck in just pulling these, carefully disassembling them and then freeing up the small metal slug which is pulled up by an energizing coil. Cheers Jim
Yep. The first thing I would suspect is the water level sensor. Part # 24 in the exploded view. I would first check for corrusion, scale, etc.http://www.cafeparts.com/body.asp?catid&41Dennis Parham wrote: <Snip> -- There is a theory which states that if ever anyone discovers exactly what the Universe is for and why it is here, it will instantly disappear and be replaced by something even more bizarre and inexplicable. There is another theory which states that this has already happened.
what exactly does the water level sensor do?? stop the filling of the boiler? or tell it that there is enough water in boiler to engage the heating element.. which I did notice is coming on and warming the water...... and as for that solenoid, Ill take it off and clean it also... Dennis On May 16, 2006, at 5:46 PM, J.W.Bullfrog wrote: <Snip>
Dennis Parham wrote: <Snip> tell it to start, or STOP filling! <Snip> -- There is a theory which states that if ever anyone discovers exactly what the Universe is for and why it is here, it will instantly disappear and be replaced by something even more bizarre and inexplicable. There is another theory which states that this has already happened.
I just noticed, the ball in the site glass sits perfectly at the MAX level mark.. I think this might mean that it is ok??? and maybe look closer at the solenoid?? Dennis On May 16, 2006, at 5:46 PM, J.W.Bullfrog wrote: <Snip>
Dennis Parham wrote: <Snip> no, if the boiler is full, the sightglass should be flooded. <Snip> -- There is a theory which states that if ever anyone discovers exactly what the Universe is for and why it is here, it will instantly disappear and be replaced by something even more bizarre and inexplicable. There is another theory which states that this has already happened.
DANGER Will Robinson DANGER .... If your boiler is so full that water comes out the relief valve, you need to disconnect from your plumbing until: A) you're pretty sure you've found the problem (e.g. water level sensor or solenoid valve) and FIXED it. B) Put pitchers under both the steam and the hot water taps, and open them up fully C) Bring up AC power with the plumbing disconntected (best is a shut-off valve, next best is a bucket under the open line from your machine to catch the hot water that will run out) and watch the boiler water level carefully. A smaller amount of water should come out of the steam tap and then dribble to a stop, while a fair amount of water will come out of the HW tap (it's OK to briefly shutdown the tap if you need to empty the pitcher) - when you're pretty sure no more water is coming out of the steam tap, it's OK to close it Watch the boiler fill level and the pressure gauge as the machine heats up, the water level should slowly sink down as the pressure rises - what you're trying for is a boiler about 3/4 full with the machine warmed up and close to pressure. When the gauge reads about full pressure, put a pitcher around the steam wand, and open the steam tap - there will be some hissing and spitting, and I expect the pressure to take a pretty sharp dip as you bleed off the very damp steam. Once the machine is at a stable temperature with good pressure, turn it off, re-install the fresh water source, and while you peer intently at the boiler level gauge turn the machine back on. It may auto-fill for a second or two on startup - but much more than this means that you didn't fix the auto-fill problem - TURN IT OFF.... Cheers Jim
On May 16, 2006, at 5:29 PM, Jim Mitchell wrote: <Snip> Mostly good advice, but the geometry of the Faema Compact 8x is maybe different than what you're used to. The water and steam tap are both well above the top of the boiler, so unless the boiler is completely full and more water is being pumped in -OR- the boiler is hot and pressurized, nothing is going to come out of either one. Dennis: the ball in the sight-glass is at the MAX level but no higher? Can you see how high the water is in the sight-glass? It needs to be between MIN and MAX. If there's something wrong with the solenoid or the autofill stuff, you can just disconnect the solenoid and/or short-circuit the autofill probe and use the manual fill button (if you are plumbed in, at least). It's actually another good reason to plumb the machine. The autofill never kicks in when you want it too (Sod's law and all that). I'll be pluming mine in a few weeks, I hope. -Paul Coffee-related content: City+ Harrar Horse #19 makes a great SO espresso.
On May 16, 2006, at 6:45 PM, Jim Mitchell wrote: <Snip> Actually that does make sense. It'll probably take a long time to drain the half of the boiler that shouldn't be filled with water that way, but that might still be less time than disconnecting pipes from the bottom of the boiler and cleaning up 1.5 l of water off the floor. Maybe tipping the machine 45 degrees forward with the taps open would work too? At least it's not a 2 group :) -Paul
She works! and great!! I need to run a pressure gauge on my portafilter... but she is making some exquisite espresso!!)))) my last fix was to rebuild the group valve! then it was working! but I had a leak in that tall in-body filter... it had only the 1 o-ring but it did not seal well and water would rush out of the top... so.. I hit the hardware store and bought a thick 1/4" square of rubber, cut it to shape the top lip of that canister, then I tightened it back down... now.. NO LEAKS and fully running! what a great machine!! :-))) I now just hooked up the flowjet and drain canister... everything is A-OK! so in all.. I ended up including repairs.. about 650.00 for a FAEMA 1 Group Compact commercial espresso machine.... :-D Dennis On May 16, 2006, at 7:45 PM, Jim Mitchell wrote: <Snip>
Dennis- if: "...she is making some exquisite espresso!!))))", Keep on keepin' on. At least you can drink the exquisite espresso brew. Eve= n the sexiest catenary strain gage pressure pick up would be unpalatable by itself. Hmmm- you could plot the pressure on the same strip chart recorder you use for plotting roast temperature profiles. With a flow meter on your gas line and a multi channel recorder... Go for it. I still have to reassemble my grinder switch before I brew any more. Corvair engines, automatic transmissions and Mazzer grinder switches- If Something Goes "Boeing," you ain't flyin' any time soon! Cheers -RayO, aka Opa! Don't Do It-