HomeRoast Digest

Topic: JB Weld & Grill Roaster (17 msgs / 291 lines)
1) From: Jason Brooks
I'm still trying to get my BBQ grill roaster up.  I need to do a bit of
welding on it, but can't seem to find the time to get the rig dropped off.
 I was thinking about JB Weld.  Went digging on their website, and saw
that none reported to be good over 500F.  Anyone tried this?  Issues about
food saftey?  Alternatives?
Getting to a welder here in the midst of nowhere, where they close at 5
and aren't open on the weekend is usually a problem.  So an alternative
path would be advantageous.
Jason Brooks

2) From: Peter Schmidt
Just a thought; where does your grill need welding, IOW what type of metal
is that area made of?  The hood, and bottom of most grills I've come across
is some sort of cast material (aluminum, or 'white metal') and would be
difficult for an average welding outfit to do.
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3) From: Jason Brooks
It's the stainless of my drum.  Sorry for not being specific.  SS may
preclude JB as well, but I'm not sure.
Jason Brooks

4) From: Paul Sack
I've used JB Weld and JB Water Weld in my espresso machine bonding 
stainless steel to brass. No problems yet. I think JB Weld would be 
fine. What exactly are you needing to weld?
Jason Brooks wrote:

5) From: Eddie Dove
Is it not possible to use some SS rivets?
On 8/25/06, Jason Brooks  wrote:

6) From: Jason Brooks
I've thought about it.  All I have are the small rivet pop "guns" that
I've been led to believe won't do SS - too heavy.  Am I wrong?
I've also thought about SS bolts, but worried about loosing the nuts over
time.  Maybe some locktite?
Jason Brooks

7) From: Jason Brooks
I'll be welding a bracket into the mouth to support the spit.  It won't
quite bolt up nicely, so I was thinking of a weld.
Jason Brooks

8) From: Ed Needham
The small pop riveters will work using SS rivets, but plan on it being 
difficult.  They are not made to deal with metal rivets that hard.  A strong 
arm and some hard work will get them in there though.
Ed Needham®
"to absurdity and beyond!"
ed at homeroaster dot com
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9) From: Eddie Dove
Mr. Needham is absolutely correct about the rivets.
I don't think I would use Loc-tite.  If you are going to use bolts, then use
friction washers ... the ones that look like an *
On 8/25/06, Ed Needham  wrote:

10) From: Jason Brooks
Good idea.  Thanks.
Jason Brooks

11) From: Eddie Dove
Don't forget to show off your finished product with some pictures for us!
On 8/25/06, Jason Brooks  wrote:

12) From: Brett Mason
I used SS rivets on my drum.  I used the SS washers on the backside.
Over time these haven't held up as well as I had hoped.  I don't know
where the washers went, or the rivets, but my grinders never clinked,
and my coffee had no round donuts in it...
My pop rivet tool did fine with the small rivets.  My arthritis didn't
like the exercise so well, I went to my left hand for the final
squeeze on each one....
On 8/25/06, Eddie Dove  wrote:

13) From: Ed Needham
If it were me, I'd make sure and do it right the first time.  I'm not a fan 
of glue on my roasters.  I think it would make your roaster feel cheap, and 
something to not be proud of.
Just my opinion.

14) From: Justin Marquez
On 8/25/06, Jason Brooks  wrote:
Or a backup jam nut behind the first one.
Or drill a hole thru the bolt and put a keeper wire on it.
Safe Journeys and Sweet Music
Justin Marquez (Snyder, TX)

15) From: Eddie Dove
Perhaps blind screws if you can find them the right size.
On 8/25/06, Justin Marquez  wrote:

16) From: Rob Stewart
On mechanic's hammers that round end is for peening.  Peening rivets that 
you can make out of bolts, rods or anything.  Copper, aluminum, steel...... 
Just make your bracket with flange or whatever, drill appropriate holes for 
your rivets and peen away backing up with whatever you can get on the other 
side. leave a bolt head if you want. The length is important..... just long 
enough to have some to peen if the hole is snug.  Takes just a little 
practice. If you use bolts, don't go with a high grade and it won't take so 

17) From: rnkyle
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
Tig welding is best and will hold up for a very long time.
Its worth the wait.
I used 10/32 screws and nuts when I was testing various vanes and =
different vane configurations and they seemed to work ok for what I was =
using them for. when I finally found what I was looking for I then went =
to tig welding and some more testing before I went into production.

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