HomeRoast Digest


Topic: Problems With I-Roast (10 msgs / 364 lines)
1) From: Howell Ite
I have been roasting with my I-roast 1 for about nine months.  This morning I attempted to roast and the roaster did not seem to be heating up past 264 degrees according to the online temperature readout.  I used the same program as I always do for the bean.  Despite the low readout I allowed the roast to finish and the beans never got past a tan color and never cracked.  I tried another roast at a different electrical outlet with the same result.  I also tried the built-in preset  2 program with no success.  Has anybody with an I-roast ever had this problem?  Also, has anybody dealt with Hearthware warranty service?  In the manual it says the unit has a 1 year warranty.  I -mailed Hearthware customer services.  I guess it's back to the popcorn popper for now.  Any help would be appreciated.  

2) From: Fookoo Network
The best thing to do is to call their customer service:
Toll Free - (888) 287-0763
and explain the problem.  At that point, you will receive detailed 
instructions what to do: namely pack it up and send the base to them with 
proof of date of purchase.  It then takes about three weeks to get 
something back - usually a replacement unit as that has been my experience.
                          Carl S Lau 

3) From: Mike Chester
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
Paul,
You can borrow my I-R 2 until yours gets fixed.  I do most of my =
roasting in the Hottop now, so the I-R 2 is just sitting in my pantry =
most of the time.
Mike Chester

4) From: Howell Ite
Mike,
   
  I am going to dig out my popcorn popper and revisitthat method.  It will be good to contrast and compare the two methods.  But if it becomes more than a week without the I-Roast I might take you up on the offer.  Thanks for the offer.
Mike Chester  wrote:
          Paul,
   
  You can borrow my I-R 2 until yours gets fixed.  I do most of my roasting in the Hottop now, so the I-R 2 is just sitting in my pantry most of the time.
   
  Mike Chester

5) From: Sandy Andina
--Apple-Mail-237-159751910
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You may have a dead thermostat. I noticed that first my i-Roast and  
later even my i-Roast 2 had a related problem: with heavier and/or  
chaffier beans, and/or the next in a series of multiple roasts, the  
beans had trouble agitating fully and the bean mass overheated to the  
point where the roaster's circuit breaker shut off the machine with  
some beans at post-French and others barely tan with chaff still  
attached. Of course, it happened post-warranty (sigh).  I never do  
more than 2 roasts a day (and not every day, at that) in the i-2  
anymore (using the original for very occasional relief, with very  
small batches); most of my roasting is now done in an SC/TO.
On Aug 27, 2006, at 9:09 AM, Howell Ite wrote:
<Snip>
Sandy
www.sandyandina.com
--Apple-Mail-237-159751910
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	charsetO-8859-1
You may have a dead thermostat. =
I noticed that first my i-Roast and later even my i-Roast 2 had a =
related problem: with heavier and/or chaffier beans, and/or the next in =
a series of multiple roasts, the beans had trouble agitating fully and =
the bean mass overheated to the point where the roaster's circuit =
breaker shut off the machine with some beans at post-French and others =
barely tan with chaff still attached. Of course, it happened =
post-warranty (sigh). I never do more than 2 roasts a day (and not =
every day, at that) in the i-2 anymore (using the original for very =
occasional relief, with very small batches); most of my roasting is now =
done in an SC/TO.
On Aug 27, 2006, at 9:09 AM, Howell Ite =
wrote:
I have been roasting with my I-roast 1 for about nine = months. This morning I attempted to roast and the roaster did not = seem to be heating up past 264 degrees according to the online = temperature readout. I used the same program as I always do for the = bean. Despite the low = readout I allowed the roast to finish and the beans never got past a tan = color and never cracked. I = tried another roast at a different electrical outlet with the same = result. I also tried the = built-in preset= 2 program with no success.Has anybody with an I-roast ever had this problem?Also, = has anybody dealt with Hearthware warranty service? In the manual it = says the unit has a 1 year warranty. I -mailed Hearthware customer = services. I guess it's back to the popcorn popper for now. Any = help would be appreciated. = = --Apple-Mail-237-159751910--

6) From: Vicki Smith
My first IR2 started having problems after about three months, and it 
was replaced by SM (I understand Hearthware usually does the warranty 
stuff themselves, it just worked out this way).
One of the reasons I decided to try the bread machine-heat gun roasting 
was the sense that anything I could do to reduce the number of roasts I 
put through my replacement IR2 would be a good thing. In the winter, 
outside roasting isn't an option, so I will stop roasting for friends to 
reduce wear and tear on the IR2.
Vicki
Sandy Andina wrote:
<Snip>

7) From: raymanowen
The thermostat is an excellent first check- good advice, Sandy.
Also, any controller using a thermocouple as a sensor has "thermocouple
break" protection, which shuts down energy to the heater if the thermocoupl=
e
is unplugged, disconnected or one of the wires breaks, causing an open
sensor circuit.
The fact that it got up to 264 means the heater is not broken. I doubt i=
f
the ballast element (if it has one for the motor) could make it that warm b=
y
itself. That possibility could be checked by running the roaster in the
cooldown mode.
Troubleshooting should be easy with just a voltmeter, for out of warranty
snooping. With the roaster unplugged or not, try cycling the power dontrol
switch on- off, and the thermostat through the ambient (room) temperature.
Some chaff might have gotten into the contacts.
With the roaster unplugged, connect an ohmmeter to the plug terminals and
switch it On to roast. The meter should read about 10 ohms  if it's goin=
g
to make heat when you plug it in. If it's high and settles on different
values as you cycle the controls, there's dirt in the switch contacts.
Auto parts stores sell brake cleaner in spray cans with a little straw for
the spray nozzle. You could clean a dirty control by spraying into it while
you cycle it. UNPLUGGED, of course.
Cheers -RayO, aka Opa!
"If you roast decaf, it voids warranty and causes capitalist problems-" -
-Nikita Khrushchev
On 8/27/06, Sandy Andina < sandraandina> wrote:
<Snip>
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not
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one
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o
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e
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8) From: Sandy Andina
--Apple-Mail-246-188442527
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You could also try "TV tuner cleaner" sold at Radio Shack or in some  
larger guitar stores for cleaning potentiometers.
On Aug 27, 2006, at 10:39 PM, raymanowen wrote:
<Snip>
Sandy
www.sandyandina.com
--Apple-Mail-246-188442527
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset-ASCII
You could also try "TV tuner =
cleaner" sold at Radio Shack or in some larger guitar stores for =
cleaning potentiometers.
On Aug 27, 2006, at 10:39 PM, raymanowen =
wrote:
Auto parts stores = sell brake cleaner in spray cans with a little straw for the spray = nozzle. = --Apple-Mail-246-188442527--

9) From: Howell Ite
Thanks for all of the helpful suggestions.  I may try giving everything a visual inspection.  
raymanowen wrote:  The thermostat is an excellent first check- good advice, Sandy.
Also, any controller using a thermocouple as a sensor has "thermocouple break" protection, which shuts down energy to the heater if the thermocouple is unplugged, disconnected or one of the wires breaks, causing an open sensor circuit. 
The fact that it got up to 264 means the heater is not broken. I doubt if the ballast element (if it has one for the motor) could make it that warm by itself. That possibility could be checked by running the roaster in the cooldown mode. 
Troubleshooting should be easy with just a voltmeter, for out of warranty snooping. With the roaster unplugged or not, try cycling the power dontrol switch on- off, and the thermostat through the ambient (room) temperature. Some chaff might have gotten into the contacts. 
With the roaster unplugged, connect an ohmmeter to the plug terminals and switch it On to roast. The meter should read about 10 ohms  if it's going to make heat when you plug it in. If it's high and settles on different values as you cycle the controls, there's dirt in the switch contacts. 
Auto parts stores sell brake cleaner in spray cans with a little straw for the spray nozzle. You could clean a dirty control by spraying into it while you cycle it. UNPLUGGED, of course.
Cheers -RayO, aka Opa! 
"If you roast decaf, it voids warranty and causes capitalist problems-" - -Nikita Khrushchev
  On 8/27/06, Sandy Andina < sandraandina> wrote:      You may have a dead thermostat. I noticed that first my i-Roast and later even my i-Roast 2 had a related problem: with heavier and/or chaffier beans, and/or the next in a series of multiple roasts, the beans had trouble agitating fully and the bean mass overheated to the point where the roaster's circuit breaker shut off the machine with some beans at post-French and others barely tan with chaff still attached. Of course, it happened post-warranty (sigh).  I never do more than 2 roasts a day (and not every day, at that) in the i-2 anymore (using the original for very occasional relief, with very small batches); most of my roasting is now done in an SC/TO. 
  
    On Aug 27, 2006, at 9:09 AM, Howell Ite wrote:
    I have been roasting with my I-roast 1 for about nine months.  This morning I attempted to roast and the roaster did not seem to be heating up past 264 degrees according to the online temperature readout.  I used the same program as I always do for the bean.  Despite the low readout I allowed the roast to finish and the beans never got past a tan color and never cracked.  I tried another roast at a different electrical outlet with the same result.  I also tried the built-in preset  2 program with no success.  Has anybody with an I-roast ever had this problem?  Also, has anybody dealt with Hearthware warranty service?  In the manual it says the unit has a 1 year warranty.  I -mailed Hearthware customer services.  I guess it's back to the popcorn popper for now.  Any help would be appreciated.   
      Sandy
  www.sandyandina.com

10) From: Howellite
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
Hearthware ended up having me send me the base.  They sent me a new base
in the mail yesterday.  Im back up and running!  I roasted batches of
Liquid Amber and Mokha Saanani last night.  Thanks everybody for =
youre
moral support.
 
Paul Andres


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