HomeRoast Digest


Topic: iRoast2 (21 msgs / 513 lines)
1) From: Dave Ehrenkranz
I have had a Zach and Dani roaster for a little over two years and been 
very satisfied. But lately it has becoming unreliable (turning off 
before done roasting and once the auger stopped rotating momentarily). 
Bottom line is I am seriously considering ordering the iRoast2 roaster. 
I would appreciate any comments about the iRoast2 and how if anyone has 
had both roasters how they compare.
I am also new to this list.
Thanks, dave

2) From: Michael Wascher
Dave,
I recently bought a used Z&D. It worked a couple of time & then had some
issues. It'd sometimes toggle back & forth between roast & cool, sometimes
shut down or start the cool cycle early.
I found a loose connection. Try this (read the instructions fully):
   1. Turn it upside down
   2. Oh --  unplug it first!
   3. Remove the Phillips screws (you don't need to remove the screws
   that hold the feet on)
   4. Remove the metal base
   5. Remove & reinsert the flex circuit
      1. the flex circuit is a long narrow flexible strip of plastic
      with metal traces on it
      2. it connects the front panel to the main board (horizontally
      mounted in the Z&D base)
      3. it slides in & out of a connector on the edge of the main
      board
      4. be very careful, the connector wasn't well secured to the
      board on mine, so hold it down or you might break it off
   6. Reassemble
I'm not if there's another connector on the front panel, if so that's
another possible source of problems.
Don't want to mess with it? If you want to try roasting with a popper I'll
trade a Poppery (one of the original models). Back channel me if interested.
--MikeW
On 9/29/06, Dave Ehrenkranz  wrote:
<Snip>
-- 
"Facts do not cease to exist because they are ignored."
  - Aldous Huxley

3) From: Les
Welcome to the list Dave.  You will find many opinions on roasters,
grinders, and everything else on this list.
Les
On 9/29/06, Dave Ehrenkranz  wrote:
<Snip>

4) From: Eddie Dove
Dave,
I can't help you with the I-Roast2, but I did want to welcome you to the
list.
Respectfully,
Eddie
On 9/29/06, Dave Ehrenkranz  wrote:
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5) From: Dave Ehrenkranz
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Eddie, Les, and others,
Thanks for the welcome. I look forward to sharing ideas and techniques.
dave
On Sep 29, 2006, at 12:34 PM, Eddie Dove wrote:
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Eddie, Les, and others,
Thanks for the welcome. I look forward to sharing ideas and
techniques. 
dave
On Sep 29, 2006, at 12:34 PM, Eddie Dove wrote:
Dave,
I can't help you with the I-Roast2, but I did want to welcome you to
the list.
Respectfully,
Eddie
On 9/29/06, Dave Ehrenkranz
<<0000,0000,EEEEdaveehr> wrote:I
have had a Zach and Dani roaster for a little over two years and been 
very satisfied. But lately it has becoming unreliable
(turning off
before done roasting and once the auger stopped rotating momentarily).
Bottom line is I am seriously considering ordering the iRoast2 roaster.
 I would appreciate any comments about the iRoast2 and how if anyone
has
had both roasters how they compare.
I am also new to this list.
Thanks, dave
 homeroast mailing list
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6) From: Vicki Smith
I like my IR2--a lot--but have never had a Z&D. It is really, really 
noisy and hearing the cracks is hit and miss for some beans. It is also 
very sensitive to the amount of beans you roast at one time, with some 
beans doing just fine at 150 grams and others, not nearly so well--130 
gram max if having an even roast is important to you. When I roast 
decaf, I seldom roast more than 100 grams at a time, and I make sure to 
add some chaff into the chaff collector and on the screen.
The venting system works very well, but you do need to be careful that 
you have it hooked in properly.
I don't use it anymore in decent weather (I really do love my bread 
machine/heat gun combo), but when it is 40 below out this winter, I'll 
use it more frequently.
Welcome to the list!!
vicki
Dave Ehrenkranz wrote:
<Snip>

7) From: Clint Cissell
I'm pretty new to roasting, but the IRoast 2 has been great so far, but yes 
it is very loud.  I roast on my screened in porch for noise/smoke purposes, 
but i this winter i'll work with the ventilation system attachment.  I've 
had it less than a year, but so far so good.
--Clint
<Snip>

8) From: Dave Nielsen
Oh man, not another Dave!  I'm gonna go back to my #368 sig!
Try HG/DB, you should be able to pick up everything you need for less
than $50.  I walked into a 50% off sale and picked up a low end heat
gun for $16 new in the case.  I should have bought two at that price
but I have space limitations for storage.  If you decide you like that
method of roasting you can pick up a better heat gun when the cheap
one dies.
Welcome to the list!
--Dave #368
On 9/29/06, Dave Ehrenkranz  wrote:
<Snip>

9) From: Gregg Talton
Dave,
Welcome to the list.
I'm very pleased with my iRoast2,  I do agree that it's very noisy but I can
hear the cracks when I roast in the garage.  If your planning to use it more
than once a day consider something else - I beleive the recommended usage is
once daily or seven times each week. Mine has been in use for about one
year.  The only problem I've experienced is related to a crack in the glass
roasting chamber.  I ordered a new one and it's fine.
Gregg T
On 9/29/06, Dave Ehrenkranz  wrote:
<Snip>

10) From: Dennis & Marjorie True
I COULDN'T AGREE MORE!!!! HG/DB taught me so much about what is actually happening and it is so Zen-like .
Dennis
Try HG/DB, you should be able to pick up everything you need for less
than $50.  I walked into a 50% off sale and picked up a low end heat
gun for $16 new in the case.  I should have bought two at that price
but I have space limitations for storage.  If you decide you like that
method of roasting you can pick up a better heat gun when the cheap
one dies.

11) From: Dave Ehrenkranz
I keep seeing "HG/DB" but have no idea what it stands for. Help!
dave
On Sep 30, 2006, at 4:45 AM, Dennis & Marjorie True wrote:
<Snip>

12) From: jim gundlach
Dave,
    HG is Heat Gun and DB is Dog Bowl.  I use a wok in place of the  
DB when I use the HG.
     Pecan Jim
On Sep 30, 2006, at 12:39 PM, Dave Ehrenkranz wrote:
<Snip>

13) From: Brian Kamnetz
Dave,
There are two basic models for roasting with HG/DB. One model produces
roast heat using solely the heat gun. The other common model uses a
supplemental source of heat under the dog bowl (or whatever container
you put the beans in - Wok, cast iron pot, stainless steel kettle,
etc). Supplemental heat sources I've seen discussed include a wood
stove and the side burner of a gas grill.
Brian
On 9/30/06, jim gundlach  wrote:
<Snip>

14) From: dave
I have an iRoast2 for SALE with 15 roasts on it for sale in excellent  
working order. Orig box included.

15) From: Scott Stevenson
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
Robert,
I use an Iroast2 and the following profile works for all beans and you =
just
end the roast when the bean color is what you like.
 
320 2 Minutes
360 3 Minutes
405 5 Minutes
420 2 Minutes
 
I almost never get to the end of the 420 cycle (usually end it somewhere =
in
405 cycle depending on bean and outside air temp).  
 
To program it hit the Roast/Temp (R/T) and Cool/Time (C/T) buttons =
together.
That enters the program mode…
Hit R/T button and select your temp with the up or down arrow buttons
Hit C/T button and select time
Hit R/T button to advance to next stage and set your next temp
Repeat using C/t and R/T buttons until you have your desired profile.
 
When finished hit R/T and C/T button together..it will say SET…use up =
arrow
to set it to the desired number (in this case you can set it to 3).
 
To use this profile, select C/T and then up arrow to 3 and hit R/T to =
start
the profile.
 
I have found that using the ½ cup measuring cup and putting just under =
1 cup
works best (allows the beans to circulate freely).
 
I stop the roast by hitting cool and then dump the beans into a =
collapsible
(expandable?) metal colander with a small desk fan blowing across it.  I
allow the roaster to continue to blow cool (it cools down the system vs
shutting it down hot) while I do this and stop it after about 2 minutes.
When the beans cool, I collapse the sides in to make a small funnel and =
then
dump then into a mason jar with a one way vented lid to off-gas I write =
on
the lid with dry erase the date and coffee type.
 
Hope this helps!
 
Scott

16) From: Tomenid
Someone here admitted that they had gone over to the dark side. As a fan of  
dark roasts, I was hesitant to roast at lighter hues but I have to admit that 
of  late I've seen the light....sorry. Unfortunately, at about this time my 
second  IRoast2 gave up the ghost. The first one was set to incinerate right out 
of the  box which makes it pretty difficult to come up with a city roast. It  
produced charred beans no matter the setting, temp or time. The second one  
functioned beautifully for two months, then reverted to incinerating just about 
 everything, even though all the maintenance had been done, and I'm about to  
return it. Has anyone else had this kind of problem with IRoast2?
Tom
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17) From: Dave
A definition is in order...
"The dark side" around here means moving to espresso drinks. It doesn't have
anything to do with degree of roast.
On Thu, Jul 24, 2008 at 11:15 AM,  wrote:
<Snip>
-- 
Dave
Some days...
It's just not worth chewing through the leather straps
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18) From: Larry Williams
I have had my IR2 for just more than a year and a half.  It appears to 
work properly and allows me to program to my liking.  I generally roast 
to C+, and have gone to FC+.
I would return the unit based on what you say.
I will not hesitate to buy another IR2 when this one dies.  I roast an 
average of 3 batches (150 gr ea.) per week.  We love the coffee.
Larry Williams
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19) From: Ken B
Larry.
I am in the same boat as you...my IR2 is about 9 months old, but has 
done 3-9 148 gram roasts a week for every week I have owned it.  I also 
can program it to hit whatever I would like within the limits that the 
IR2 has, and have roasted from C to FC++ with it.  I would not hesitate 
to buy another if this one died.
Tom...you might have a string of bad luck going there.  Or you might 
have extra high voltage, or something else.  What profile are you using 
that produces the incineration?  Do you have a thermocouple in the 
beans?  And I have had one instance where I had to reprogram all of my 
profiles because for some reason it seemed to have reverted to the 
(horrible) default roast.
I use this profile for City+:
Stage 1:  320 for 3min
Stage 2:  335 for 5min
Stage 3:  345 for 2min
Stage 4:  355 for 2min
Stage 5:  380 for 3min
On my machine, with my voltage and setup, this produces a bean 
temperature of between 423 and 435 at the full 15 minutes, depending on 
the bean, when using 148 grams of greens.  You might want to try 
programming this and seeing if it does something different than 
"incinerate".
I hope it helps.
Best Regards,
Ken B
Larry Williams wrote:
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20) From: Joseph Robertson
Larry and Ken,
I'm with you. We have had our IRoast2 for over a year now and not even a
hickup.
I plan on selling them in our Wholesale/retail shop.
JoeR
On Thu, Jul 24, 2008 at 11:15 AM,  wrote:
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21) From: Matthew Walker
I have been an IRoast2 user for two years and have good luck with it.  I
have found that by using a 20 foot extension cord (which I need in any event
to get the unit outside and not trigger spousal fury with smoke alarms and
house wide odor) and using the following profile: 350 (4min); 400 (2min);
440 (6min).  I have great control depending on when I hit the "cool" buttion
and can get anything I want between City + and Vienna.  Now, I recognize
each of these units is unique and this may not prove foolproof from machine
to machine but I recommend the voltage reducing step of the 20' extension
cord.  Let me know, if you try it, how it works out.
Best,
Matt
On Thu, Jul 24, 2008 at 2:15 PM,  wrote:
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