I'm confused about when a roast can be considered City and was hoping someone can help me with this? I've been roasting to the end of first crack but the beans look and taste much darker than the examples on SM's library. They look more like Full City but 2nd crack is a ways away. If I stop the roast in the middle of first crack (still hear some rapid popping) the roast looks more like city. I'm using an iRoast 1 with the following settings on a Timor FTO Peaberry. outlet voltage reading of 120 320 -2min 360 3 min (at the end of this stage the beans "look" like a city roast) 415 4.5 min (at this setting first crack is hit ~1 min in) --Kevin DM: No, your fighter doesn't gain bonuses from drinking coffee.
To get a good City roast, roast chamber temp needs to be gentle going into and through first giving the bean time to fully roast inside and out without over roasting the outside of the bean, virtually stalling the roast at finish temp. That can be a challenge if you can't control the roast profile, especially with stock fluid bed roasters and especially if they tend to roast fast. I can't tell you how to do it with an I-Roast. Me I just back off the heater voltage:-) Kona Konnaisseur miKe mcKoffee URL to Rosto mods, FrankenFormer, some recipes etc:http://mdmint.home.comcast.net/coffee/Rosto_mod.htmUltimately the quest for Koffee Nirvana is a solitary path. To know I must first not know. And in knowing know I know not. Each Personal enlightenment found exploring the many divergent foot steps of Those who have gone before. <Snip>
--Apple-Mail-16--214144033 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Type: text/plain; charset -ASCII; delsp=yes; format=flowed I don't consider it City till all the chaff has popped. Most of the time it has to go all the way till the end of 1st. On Oct 11, 2006, at 7:02 PM, STP wrote: <Snip> Sandy www.sandyandina.com --Apple-Mail-16--214144033 Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Content-Type: text/html; charset O-8859-1 I don't consider it City till = all the chaff has popped. Most of the time it has to go all the way till = the end of 1st. On Oct 11, 2006, at 7:02 PM, STP = wrote:
City is when first crack is over. In a chamber (of whatever kind) with a well-embedded TC, I'd call it 425 or so -- YMMV depending on placement and other factors. Keep an eye on the color of the silverskin remnants in the fold of the bean. These are often a good indicator of roast degree. For a city roast, this material would still be relatively white. HTH On 10/11/06, STP wrote: <Snip>
Thanks for the replies, I re-read the manual on my iRoast and in three different spots it said to kill the roast at the start of the roast I want. So I'm going to run a test batch on some Vietnam Robusta and stop the roast in the middle of 1st crack. (Don't tell Tom, but I'm my plan is to add 1lb of Vietnam Robusta to each order for my "experimental" runs where I tweak settings. Rather waste the VR than the excellent SM coffee offerings)! On 10/11/06, Scott Marquardt wrote: <Snip> -- --Kevin
I have an i-Roast 1. What I noticed is that if you do not clean the glass constantly it gets a coating of oil making the beans look a little darker than they really are. I have to concsiously think about this when I am deciding when to stop the roast. I usually roast into second crack and the chaff remaining in the crook of the bean is tan. But regardless of what blend or SO I have roasted the color is never completely even. Paul Andres STP wrote: Thanks for the replies, I re-read the manual on my iRoast and in three different spots it said to kill the roast at the start of the roast I want. So I'm going to run a test batch on some Vietnam Robusta and stop the roast in the middle of 1st crack. (Don't tell Tom, but I'm my plan is to add 1lb of Vietnam Robusta to each order for my "experimental" runs where I tweak settings. Rather waste the VR than the excellent SM coffee offerings)! On 10/11/06, Scott Marquardt wrote: <Snip> -- --Kevin
This is a multi-part message in MIME format. You are trying to roast too much at one time . Keep your beans at 150 = gr.
So far (after about 7 months with the I-Roast-2) my best tasting roasts have been made by starting the roast with the upper portion of the lid off. (I normally roast outside.) I program the first 5 minutes at 350F. After 3 1/2 to 4 minutes into that temp. I place the lid onto the roaster to allow the chamber temp. to come up to the programed temp. My second stage temp. is programed for 425F and I usually program it to run for 2 minutes. Usually my first crack begins 5 1/2 minutes into the roast and has completed by the end of the second stage (7 minutes). I then have a stage set for 380F for about 3 minutes just in case of any straggelers, then a stage of 3 minutes at 440F in case I want to do a Vienne (which I seldom do). This set up is normally done with 150 grams of Harrar Horse (Lot #19 and Green Stripe) and Uganda. I have found with my machine that if I start with the lid on (80 to 100F days) I start into 1st Crack before leaving the first stage, and begin seeing divot flying before the 2nd stage ends. I have tried the long extension cord, short extension cord and neither worked for me (slowed my blower action too much). The above method seems to work well for me. I had tried starting with the lid and loosening it occationally, but that tends to get me an 'owie'...so I now start with it off and add it during the roast. If you roast inside your home....don't do this...unless you don't mind vacuuming. Just my 2 cents worth. On 10/12/06, STP wrote: <Snip> -- <Snip>
Sandy, I'm still getting a Chaff Storm after 15 minutes- just after 1st quits, before they start smoking and 2nd Crack starts. Then I can nurse it as far into 2nd as I want. Even then, I still get a little chaff. Cheers -RayO, aka Opa! -- "When the theme hits the bass, I dance the Jig!" - -Virgil Fox at the Mighty Wichita (ex- NYC Paramount) WurliTzer- 1976
<Snip> Stopping in the middle of first may give you some weak tasting coffee. You need enough heat input to push through the endotherm without letting the temperature stall. Like Mike said, you need to enter first at a "gentle" rate, but not so slow that you stall before first is done. Watch the "bean" temperature and make sure it is always rising at least 3F per minute at its slowest during mid first. Poppers and likely the iRoast can be set up to stall at or just above your desired city roast finish temperature to prevent going into second. Do not let this stall proceed for more than a minute or brightness will be reduced. Please do not "waste" the Vietnam Robusta. I have not tried the latest lot, but you should be able to get some very good flavors if you ignore the overall "vending machine" taste. A slow enough roast will remove the rubbery flavors, and a finish near the start of second will give you some very nice bittersweet chocolate. Cull the non-coffee items and black colored beans. Remember the caffeine is about double that of arabica. --
Ken, I had success last night using a batch of Guat San marcos using 385 for ten min on the IR1. Stopped the roast 8 min in for City +. I was thinking of trying the following for a viennese/french: 385 9 min - complete 1st crack 340 1.5 min - after first is finished 415 4 min - to get to start or just in 2nd crack Is dropping the temp at stage to prior to 2nd crack to stall the roast prior to 2nd and then bring it into 2nd a good idea? On 10/13/06, Ken Mary wrote: <Snip> -- --Kevin
<Snip> To be precise, yes and no, or maybe. For standard brewed coffee, brightness may suffer a lot if there is too much time spent after first crack. For espresso, this may be just fine. Since I do not drink espresso, most of my coffee is roasted city to city plus. With a new lot, I nearly always take the first roast to first snap of second, but never darker. YOU are the roaster, so YOU can make the decision to either proceed into second, stop short of second, or stall to remove brightness and preserve fruitiness depending on the cup profile you want. --
Ken, I didn't realize that was the purpose of stalling, to remove brightness and preserve fruitiness. I'll try that. Thanks! Kevin --Life's too short to suffer bad coffee
Kevin, Don't think of it as stalling so much as establishing a temperature profile for maximizing your roast. Each type of bean might have a diffrent profile to get the best flavor, for your brew method... For example, a careful managed roast might follow this profile model 1. nn minutes at yyy temp 2. nn minutes at yyy temp 3. nn minutes at yyy temp 4. nn minutes at yyy temp 5. nn minutes at yyy temp Sometimes for me, it's Full City Plus for every bean. Then I work with a few more roasts to get where I like it even better, adjusting heat along the way, watching the clock, etc. Regards, Brett On 10/13/06, STP wrote: <Snip> -- Cheers, Bretthttp://homeroast.freeservers.com
"...dropping the temp at stage to prior to 2nd crack to stall the roast prior to 2nd and then bring it into 2nd" OK- go for it. That's about what I do with the heat gun on 400g of beans in a mixer bowl. You keep good notes- but how do you like the resulting brew (method?) at various stages post roast? Two days ago, 11 Oct, I blended some Ethiopian Longberry Harar at FC roasted 26 Sep, 2:3 with Green Stripe, FC roasted 1 Oct. I did a TV brew with a Gold filter. Ground 52g at 57 setting, 1.8L into the Thermos(r) pump pot. Here's where I stumbled into a disagreement with the Coffee Masters: The two Ethiopians I blended above actually had aged Fabulously in their O2-excluded glass prisons! Who says there isn't an ageing profile? Just because it takes effort to keep the Oxygen out, and maybe it's a little hard- - How about O2-exclusive roasting? Hard, huh? Impossible? No. Cheers -RayO, aka Opa! "...The indisputable truth is that no coffee is fresh if it isn't fresh roasted." - -Martin Diedrich