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Topic: Z&D Roaster Repair - Ideas? (15 msgs / 206 lines)
1) From: Eddie Dove
Hey Folks,
Jeff Sheltren reminded me that I have not yet fixed my Zach & Dani's roaster
that I knocked off of the counter.  The top is removable via a metal hinge
pin that would slide into the plastic receiver on the body.  The problem is,
the plastic body broke and now comes off with the hinge pin.  I don't know
if I can sufficiently describe this to elicit ideas, but ideas are welcome
because I don't deal with fixing plastic very often.  Is this a potential
application for JB Weld?

2) From: Peter Zulkowski
Hi Eddie,
A good material to repair hot things with is that Hi Temp gasket repair 
from Walmart, or an automotive store.
It is a paste like caulk, but does stick things together. Another name 
for it is RTV.
It is usually red and is in a tube like tooth paste. It hardens into 
something like silicon rubber, and is good for about 600F
I have used it to attach the glass chimney to my Poppery.
Hope this helps,

3) From: Angelo
This is a bit off-topic, or rather, "Bi-topic".
I have quite a few of tubes of various adhesive type materials and 
they are all dried out. I was wondering if anybody has used a Vac 
sealer to store these opened tubes in a vac bag and thereby keep them 
from drying out? This might be a reason to put me over the top as 
regards purchasing a sealer...:-)

4) From: Eddie Dove
Thank you.  I had thought about that, but was usure if it would be able to
support the weight ot the lid when it was open and the tensile stress when
the lid is snapped closed.  I'll have to look into it.
Thanks again,
On 10/23/06, Peter Zulkowski  wrote:

5) From: Michael Wascher
Me too!
I have a tube of solvent type glue. I was about to try it on an unobtrusive
spot. Solvents tend to work well on some plastics, so I figured I'd give it
a shot.
BTW, have you talked to the folks at Z&D? I emailed over a week ago, no
response yet.
On 10/23/06, Eddie Dove  wrote:
"Facts do not cease to exist because they are ignored."
  - Aldous Huxley

6) From: Michael Wascher
It'd probably be a very good solution for water based glues. Other glues
have a high proportion of volatile solvents. These solvents will likely
migrate through the plastic vac bag, or even melt it entirely.
On 10/23/06, Angelo  wrote:
"Facts do not cease to exist because they are ignored."
  - Aldous Huxley

7) From: Eddie Dove
Nope.  I have heard that they have not been responsive and I don't need to
volunteer for any more stress.  I broke it, it was my fault.  Someone at
work told me to try an epoxy of some sort.  I'm not sure what type of
plastic it is, though.
On 10/23/06, Michael Wascher  wrote:

8) From: raymanowen
Eddie, you might call some metal fabricators- I have a friend, Vince, in
Ryegate, MT. that works with all kinds of metals and polymers. Buzz him at <
Or call local metal fabricators. They're pretty knowledgeable. Maybe could
even build you a stainless cement mixer that you could use for roasting!
The epoxys are cheap enough- the red Silicone RTVs are not. Whatever
adhesive you use, just be absolutely sure the crack area is clean, degreased
and bone dry.
The tendency is to glue both sides of the crack and push it together for
Zero glue thickness.That only works with solvent cements.
Cheers -RayO, aka Opa!
"...The indisputable truth is that no coffee is fresh if it isn't fresh
roasted." - -Martin Diedrich

9) From: Dean
This would be a  poor choice for anaerobic adhesives (quite a few 
thread-locker, gasket-sealer, etc types)
But the bag might do ok with many organic-solvent based adhesives. Maybe 
you could over pack in aluminum foil first.
Sounds like reason enough to get one.  Go for it!
GO Go go go  (chanting fades away)
Angelo wrote:

10) From: Eddie Dove
Thanks RayO,
I was thinking (hoping) along the lines of melting it together with solvent
adhesive.  It sure looks like black ABS, but I'm not a member of the
Plastics Council.  I have glued enough plumbing together though and still
have some of the cement around.  I just gotta remember that special place
that I put it so that I wouldn't forget where it is ...
On 10/23/06, raymanowen  wrote:

11) From: raymanowen
You can always try to prime a small area on the bottom edge, then a drop of
the ABS adhesive to see if it actually softens it up.
 Helpful FAQ: 
Cheers -RayO, aka Opa!
"Omishagari!" ("Good Harvest!") - -Traditional Ethiopian greeting

12) From: Eddie Dove
Thank, RayO!  That is really helpful!
Have a great day!
On 10/23/06, raymanowen  wrote:

13) From: Michael Wascher
I'm not sure either. I tried a bit of the solvent type glue on it. Nothing.
After it dried it rubbed off.
I may have broken it, but a vender has an obligation to provide some level
of support. That's why many electronic items come with schematics, it's the
vendor's attempt to provide minimal support for their product.
On 10/23/06, Eddie Dove  wrote:
"Facts do not cease to exist because they are ignored."
  - Aldous Huxley

14) From: Eddie Dove
You know ... I apply that same logic to all of the tools I buy because I
want exploded view diagrams so that I can repair them.  I guess that fact
that I have very little understanding of electronics kept me from applying
the same logic.  Thanks for the fresh perspective.
On 10/24/06, Michael Wascher  wrote:

15) From: Michael Wascher
I haven't repaired it yet, but it roasts just fine! I just put the top on,
friction fit of the gaskets and the latch in front seem to be keeping it in
place fine.
On 10/24/06, Eddie Dove  wrote:
"Facts do not cease to exist because they are ignored."
  - Aldous Huxley

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