HomeRoast Digest


Topic: Best Plans for Split-Wiring (11 msgs / 302 lines)
1) From: Jason Brooks
My WBP1 recently had a heater coil break.  Nothing new, but required me to
dismantle the beast.  And there it sits, in pieces, on the workbench.  No
that it's once again apart, I'm pondering 'improving' the beast.  I've
looked about, and the split wire articles are almost all for WBP2's.  Are
there any great gotcha's with splitting a WBP1?  Questions below:
1)  Would it be best to go ahead with a dimmer to control the heat?
2)  Separate, distinct power supplies, or a split single?
3)  Some list a transformer needed.  Is it needed for the heater?  (I
think it listed the tx for the fan).
4)  Any other ways to skin this one?
My goal is to have a WBP1 that has, at a minimum, the ability to halt the
heat.  At best, it's the thermostatic approach.
Thanks,
Jason
-- 
Jason Brooks
jbrookshttp://javajeb.wordpress.com

2) From: Brian Kamnetz
Jason,
You need to get in contact with Mike (just plain), member of this list and
builder of the "uber popper" a modded Poppery I. There is a photo of his
creation here, third roaster down:http://homeroasters.org/members_roasters.htmBrian
On 11/6/06, Jason Brooks  wrote:
<Snip>

3) From: Rich Adams
Hey Jason,
<Snip>
Nope, pretty straightforward.  Nut drivers with an extension make it super 
easy.
<Snip>
Never had accurate control with the 1500 watt dimmer I tried.  Variac worked 
much better.
<Snip>
Your choice, but keep in mind what you send to the heater will get sent to 
the fan on a single, which would mean when you give it less juice you will 
get less heat AND less air.
<Snip>
Yes, for the fan, it boosts it a bit.  See. http://mdmint.home.comcast.net/coffee/fancontrolproto.htm<Snip>
One way would be to leave it stock and just tweak the thermostat a bit so it 
opens at a hotter then needed temperature.  Others have totally bypassed it 
but I never felt comfortable with that approach.  Have it split wired with 
the heater power going through the on off switch and the fan power direct 
wired to another plug.
Be careful you don't plug in the heater coil without air moving, which there 
is a chance of happening with a unit with two un-lableled power cords.
<Snip>
Then a split wired, variac on the heat supply, setup will do fine.
Respectfully,
Rich Adams
<Snip>

4) From: Michael Dhabolt
Jason,
The following articles are in a Beta level completion.
The first article on mods for the P1 is athttp://tinyurl.com/teys8 andhttp://tinyurl.com/y5ne32 .">http://tinyurl.com/yx4mvm.The following two articles are at:http://tinyurl.com/teys8 andhttp://tinyurl.com/y5ne32 .
There is a fair amount of info in the forum that contains the three
articles.  It is at: http://tinyurl.com/vhbmv .
There are some other folks on the list that have a lot of experience
with modified P1s.  If I can be of any other help email me off-list.
Mike (just plain)

5) From: Sean Cary
Mike makes a hell of a roaster!
Sean M. Cary
Major USMC
Tempus Fugit Memento Mori

6) From: Michael Dhabolt
Sean,
How is everything holding up?  Did you try the 'Misty Valley'?
Mike (just plain)

7) From: Sean Cary
Good to go - just got a 12 pounder, but don't think I added that.  I am
going back and departing from my Central stance - got some Kenyan and
Sumatran in this order...  I want to try some stuff I didn't enjoy first
time around, maybe since I didn't roast it properly.
I am thinking about a "ruggedized" roaster - I want to make a deployable,
Marine Proof roaster that I can take with me next deployment.  I have a
Poppery II that I think will be the start point and I want to make something
that can stand up to being tossed in a seabag and bounced around some...not
that I am planning on a departure anytime soon, but I only had 3 weeks
notice last time.
Sean M. Cary
Major USMC
Tempus Fugit Memento Mori

8) From: Michael Dhabolt
Sean,
Keep a look out for a P1 - thrift stores and similar.  Doug Straits
mods would turn it into just what you are looking to build.
Considerably more "ruggedized" (when considering sea bag storage) than
the Ubber Popper.  Would have a considerably longer half life than
anything you could do with a P2.
Mike (just plain)

9) From: Michael Wascher
Sean,
Want a P1? I have one that works fine. I've torn it down & cleaned it,
replaced the power cord, split the circuits so the switch  controls just the
heater. It works fine but we just don't get along. Every time I try to roast
with it it's too hot too fast and beans end up too dark with too little
flavor.
I also have a surface mount soldering machine -- big but pieces might be
useful for a project: two separate heaters (each with its own controller
consisting of a 5 A fuse, on/off switch, temp control knob), and a
motor/fan. Air flow controlled with an adjustable flap that covers the air
intake. High heat/low airflow, these might be suitable for a Z&D type
machine with hot air for heat & mechanical agitation.
--MikeW
On 11/7/06, Michael Dhabolt  wrote:
<Snip>
-- 
"In theory, there is no difference between theory and practice; In practice,
there is."
  - Chuck Reid

10) From: Sean Cary
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
Sold!  I will contact you off list - e-mail the same as last year when I was
in Iraq?
Sean M. Cary
Major USMC
Tempus Fugit Memento Mori  
From: homeroast-admin
[mailto:homeroast-admin] On Behalf Of Michael Wascher
Sent: Tuesday, November 07, 2006 8:08 PM
To: homeroast
Subject: Re: +Best Plans for Split-Wiring
Sean,
Want a P1? I have one that works fine. I've torn it down & cleaned it,
replaced the power cord, split the circuits so the switch  controls just the
heater. It works fine but we just don't get along. Every time I try to roast
with it it's too hot too fast and beans end up too dark with too little
flavor. 
I also have a surface mount soldering machine -- big but pieces might be
useful for a project: two separate heaters (each with its own controller
consisting of a 5 A fuse, on/off switch, temp control knob), and a
motor/fan. Air flow controlled with an adjustable flap that covers the air
intake. High heat/low airflow, these might be suitable for a Z&D type
machine with hot air for heat & mechanical agitation.
--MikeW
On 11/7/06, Michael Dhabolt  wrote:
Sean,
Keep a look out for a P1 - thrift stores and similar.  Doug Straits
mods would turn it into just what you are looking to build.
Considerably more "ruggedized" (when considering sea bag storage) than 
the Ubber Popper.  Would have a considerably longer half life than
anything you could do with a P2.
Mike (just plain)-- 
"In theory, there is no difference between theory and practice; In practice,
there is."
  - Chuck Reid 

11) From: Scott Marquardt
If Sean was only wanting the P1, I might be interested in the SMD machine.
Good grief. I never would have thought of something like that. But those
aren't cheap!
- S
On 11/7/06, Michael Wascher  wrote:
<Snip>


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