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Topic: A couple of SC/TO questions (5 msgs / 311 lines)
1) From: Justin Schwarz
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About a month ago I found the required components and a stainless  
steel dog bowl all for 50% off at my local thrift store -- $10.   
Yesterday I went to lowe's and got some JB weld, some allthread, a  
1/4" socket, and a couple of various other nuts, bolts & washers --  
$13.  Today, I put it all together and I can't wait for the JB weld  
to harden so I can roast.
A couple of questions as I anxously await the maiden roast in my new  
toy.
1. I have seen people's design with the copper cap. Is this needed  
for insulation, or simply to clean things up?  I would like to avoid  
copper in my roaster, any suggestions?
2.  I have allowed for a TC to be used, what kind of air temp based  
profiles are people using?
I'll probably think of a couple more this evening
Thanks everyone,
Justin Schwarz
houstini
If there is anything worth doing, it's worth doing right.
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About a month ago I found the =
required components and a stainless steel dog bowl all for 50% off at my =
local thrift store -- $10.  Yesterday I went to lowe's and got some JB =
weld, some allthread, a 1/4" socket, and a couple of various other nuts, =
bolts & washers -- $13.  Today, I put it all together and I can't =
wait for the JB weld to harden so I can roast.  A =
couple of questions as I anxously await the maiden roast in my new =
toy.
1. I = have seen people's design with the copper cap. Is this needed for = insulation, or simply to clean things up?  I would like to avoid = copper in my roaster, any suggestions?
2.  I have allowed for a = TC to be used, what kind of air temp based profiles are people = using?
I'll = probably think of a couple more this evening 
Thanks = everyone, Justin = Schwarzhoustini
If there is anything worth = doing, it's worth doing right.

= = --Apple-Mail-1--264635722--

2) From: stereoplegic
so, are you using the dog bowl instead of the SC? what about the motor 
(if using the SC's motor (small plastic square shaft), then yes, i'd 
recommend the cap or some sort of insulation)? any pics?
houstini wrote:
<Snip>

3) From: Jason D. Montgomery
I never made my capper cop permanent (by gluing it in) - and based on =
the way the washers cover the hole in the Stir Crazy - beans/chaff won't =
slip into the innards. So for me the copper cap ends up being =
unnecessary, and I tend to leave it off when I roast.
 
later,
jason
From: homeroast-admin on behalf of Justin Schwarz
Sent: Thu 1/18/2007 8:03 PM
To: homeroast
Subject: +A couple of SC/TO questions
About a month ago I found the required components and a stainless steel =
dog bowl all for 50% off at my local thrift store -- $10.  Yesterday I =
went to lowe's and got some JB weld, some allthread, a 1/4" socket, and =
a couple of various other nuts, bolts & washers -- $13.  Today, I put it =
all together and I can't wait for the JB weld to harden so I can roast.  =
 
A couple of questions as I anxously await the maiden roast in my new =
toy.
1. I have seen people's design with the copper cap. Is this needed for =
insulation, or simply to clean things up?  I would like to avoid copper =
in my roaster, any suggestions?
2.  I have allowed for a TC to be used, what kind of air temp based =
profiles are people using?
I'll probably think of a couple more this evening 
Thanks everyone,
Justin Schwarz
houstini
If there is anything worth doing, it's worth doing right.
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4) From: Justin Schwarz
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On Jan 18, 2007, at 7:58 PM, stereoplegic wrote:
<Snip>
Yup, drilled a hole in the center and permanently mounted to SC.  I  
made snips radially from the hole in the SC and smashed down the  
"volcano" in the center until it was flat. obviously with this  
modification I will not be using heat from the SC.  Two reasons for  
this setup: it works from what I had, the fun acronym of SC/DB/TO,  
and the DB makes a smaller roast chamber than a strip around the  
circumference of the SC. looking forward to tomorrow when I do my  
first roast, will have pics then.
profiles anyone?  at least a good starting point.  What are some good  
air temperatures for this method.
Justin Schwarz
houstini
If there is anything worth doing, it's worth doing right.
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On Jan 18, 2007, at =
7:58 PM, stereoplegic wrote:

so, are you using the dog = bowl instead of the SC? what about the motor

=
Yup, = drilled a hole in the center and permanently mounted to SC.  I made = snips radially from the hole in the SC and smashed down the "volcano" in = the center until it was flat. obviously with this modification I will = not be using heat from the SC.  Two reasons for this setup: it works = from what I had, the fun acronym of SC/DB/TO, and the DB makes a smaller = roast chamber than a strip around the circumference of the SC. = looking forward to tomorrow when I do my first roast, will have pics = then. 
profiles = anyone?  at least a good starting point.  What are some good air = temperatures for this method.   Justin = Schwarzhoustini
If there is anything worth = doing, it's worth doing right.

= = --Apple-Mail-2--245529685--

5) From: stereoplegic
at least for bigger batches, preheating to @least 250-300 will help your 
initial ramp to 300 a great deal. i've had really good results w/ 
eddie's GC profiles, though the later stages might need some tweaking. 
i'm assuming the dog bowl is deeper than the standard SC+spacer setup, 
so more heat may be needed to reach appropriate temps at appropriate 
times. i've been experiencing that in my eWOK/CO setup, but then a wok 
is much bigger. buy some vietnamese robusta and play with that. also, i 
like to stick a thermometer in and lay it across the top of the stirring 
arms to get a fairly close bean mass temp (and this helps bean 
dispersion), but be prepared for reversals as the SC's motor doesn't 
have much torque. for me this meant holding the thermometer and being 
prepared to change it's direction (a little more hands-on than the SC/TO 
is supposed to be i guess, but i was very happy with the results until 
the motor and drive shaft started acting funny-hence my new setup).
houstini wrote:
<Snip>


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