HomeRoast Digest

Topic: iRoast and Flying Lids (8 msgs / 178 lines)
1) From: Jason Brooks
I have a home-roasting friend I saw on Saturday.  He's not a lister, so I
thought I'd query for him.  He has an iRoast (don't know the vintage,
seller, etc) that's recently developed the habit of blowing it's lid
during the cooling phase.  At first, it seemed to be only when there were
several roasts done back to back and the third would loose it's top.  But
recently, three straight were blown out onto the ground.
I haven't seen the unit, have no idea of any qualities thereof.
Suggestions to pass along from other iRoasters?
Jason Brooks

2) From: Barry Luterman
He needs a new top about $14. There is a gasket in the top that presses 
against the glass. In time the gasket flattens out and the top loses it's 
seal. The life of the gasket can be appreciably extended by storing the 
i-roast with the top on loosely. If stored tightened down it flattens the 
gasket prematurely.

3) From: Jason Brooks
Thanks.  I'll pass that along.
Jason Brooks

4) From: Ross
Duct tape?  I have seen pictures where someone drilled a small hole thru the 
top of the handle into the chaff collector and put in a nail to keep it from 

5) From: Aaron
The gasket could be worn out, or one of the tits on the top part is worn 
/ broken off letting the top not really lock correctly.   Personally 
when I hit the cool button I untwist the top anyways and let it 'float' 
over the unit, it helps cool it a bit quicker.
A word of WARNING though... the I roast is not made for back to back 
roasts, you will burn the thing out with extended back to backs like 
that and no rest time like they recommend.   With that, it could have 
also contributed to your problem because the gasket not being able to 
cool down properly, and squishing down more / faster.
On of my I roasts has a smushy gasket, I just a ring of gasket material 
and have it in the back of the gasket to push it out from the lid a bit 
so it engages tight again.

6) From: MSMB
Yuk. A gooey mess. With the heat.  The very top lid on mine has a bit of
plastic broken and will blow off during the roast and during the cooling
period.  I just have found a container that is the same height as the
roaster and balance a cast iron steel pot on both of them.  I cover very few
of the venting holes and it seems to work fine.  Your friend should be able
to get a new lid, though they are pretty expensive.

7) From: Walter R. Basil
On Feb 26, 2007, at 4:50 PM, "Jason Brooks"  wrote:
It may be time for a new chamber and chaff collector assembly. I've  
had mine for about a year and 3 months now (iROAST 2) and I just  
ordered a new chamber and chaff collector assembly. The chamber goes  
for about $35 from both Sweet Maria's and the producer's web site. I  
emailed SM about the chamber they offer but the response was very  
vague at best. I inquired as to the model number, whether it was the  
original or the IR2 model. Their response: it will fit both. Of  
course it will. But I wanted to be sure it's the 2 model, as big time  
improvements were made in stem of the deflector making it more sturdy  
(as Tom writes in his review). I couldn't get that answer so I just  
ordered from the producer since I needed a lid as well. I ended up  
buying the entire top portion of the IR2. Over time and heat from  
multiple back to back roasting, the little tabs on the lid break off.  
One of mine are gone so there is no problem yet. I ordered the  
replacement parts before I "needed" to. I would hate to be without.  
My new parts should be here at the end of the week. Every time I  
roast, I do 3 batches, with at least 30 minutes in between each roast  
per the manufacturer's warning. The entire bundle cost me around $72  
including shipping.
Walter R Basil

8) From: Woody DeCasere
a new lid, just the piece that locks in is about $15 i wouldnt say that is
too expensive to replace.
On 2/26/07, MSMB  wrote:
"And we'd better not risk another frontal assault, that rabbit's dynamite!!"http://www.decasere.blogspot.com/

HomeRoast Digest