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Topic: Stir Crazy and Frustrated (15 msgs / 542 lines)
1) From: Brian Fowler
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
I started my metal drive shaft mod to the stir crazy tonight and ran =
into a snag.  When I was removing the top plate from the bottom of the =
unit I snaped the bolt off, it was apparently rusted in place.  I don't =
see how I could have avoided it but..........anyhow.  I reattached the =
heating mechanism to the base but the top plate is free.  I am thinking =
of using JB weld to "glue" it down.  Anyone have any thoughts on this?  =
Do I need the heating mechanism, I have disconected it already.  Any =
thoughts apprciated.
Brian

2) From: Rich
JB weld will give up the ghost and quit sticking in the 400 degree range somewhere.  The acceptable 
temperature ranges are on the company website.  Maybe a new stir crazy is the quick solution.
--Original Message Text---
From: Brian Fowler
Date: Sat, 31 Mar 2007 20:34:54 -0500
I started my metal drive shaft mod to the stir crazy tonight and ran into a snag.  When I was removing the top plate from the bottom of 
the unit I snaped the bolt off, it was apparently rusted in place.  I don't see how I could have avoided it but..........anyhow.  I reattached 
the heating mechanism to the base but the top plate is free.  I am thinking of using JB weld to "glue" it down.  Anyone have any thoughts 
on this?  Do I need the heating mechanism, I have disconected it already.  Any thoughts apprciated. 
Brian 

3) From: Brian Fowler
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
Yes probably a new one is the way to go.  I did get it for a =
steal.......guess I know why now......lol.  I just hate to pitch it.
Brian

4) From: Brian Fowler
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
Actually just did the website check and its good to 500 degrees.  Hmmmmm

5) From: Rich
The bond starts to go south in the 400s and it will just fall off above 500.  Have you considered drill 
and tap?
I have been through this "where is the high temperature steel filled epoxy" drill myself and actual on 
site tests were not favorable to good bonds much above 350.  There are some high temperature 
ceramic filled products but the cost will take your breath away.  If the surface area is large and you 
can obtain a large bonding area with a very thin "glue" line it might hold.  What happens if it fails in 
the middle of a roast?
The max temperature rating is slanted more towards using the product as a filler material and not a 
bonding agent.
--Original Message Text---
From: Brian Fowler
Date: Sat, 31 Mar 2007 21:18:10 -0500
Actually just did the website check and its good to 500 degrees.  Hmmmmm

6) From: Brian Fowler
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
Unfortunately drill and tap isn't an option with the way the bolt =
fractured.  Target 26.99 is looking pretty good.
Brian

7) From: Rich
Anything on fleaBay?  might be cheaper.
--Original Message Text---
From: Brian Fowler
Date: Sat, 31 Mar 2007 21:41:32 -0500
Unfortunately drill and tap isn't an option with the way the bolt fractured. Target 26.99 is looking pretty good. 
Brian 

8) From: Brian Fowler
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
Not really, shipping bumps it up over target, atleast new.  I got this =
one for 5.75 but I think I am going new so I don't have to worry about =
rusted nuts.  
Brian

9) From: Rich
Yep, the shipping fraud kills a bunch of deals for me also.  You would think that these idiots would 
figure out that almost anyone can read a shipping cost table and add.
Happy stiring..  New will at least come apart.
Rich
--Original Message Text---
From: Brian Fowler
Date: Sat, 31 Mar 2007 22:16:53 -0500
Not really, shipping bumps it up over target, atleast new.  I got this one for 5.75 but I think I am going new so I don't have to worry about 
rusted nuts.   
Brian

10) From: stereoplegic
what about high-temp (700 degree, not the 500 degree variety) RTV sealant?
also, no, you probably don't need the heating element, but it comes in 
handy if you split wire it and run it through a switch or 600w dimmer 
(you don't need the full wattage, my older model was 1000, the CO will 
be carrying most of the heating workload). this way you get some profile 
control and don't have to run the CO on full blast the whole roast just 
to get to your finish temp within a reasonable time.
rich-mail wrote:
<Snip>

11) From: Bob
Brian,
I've had them snap off of 'brand new out of the box units' too ~ 
they are really over torqued when they are put on. I've taken to 
putting some WD-40 on them & then waiting a bit prior to 
attempting to loosen the nuts. Keep the parts though, they come 
in handy as you mod.
Bob

12) From: Michael Laggis
I went with the Salton Popcorn popper and Nut roaster.  It all ready has =
a 6mm metal shaft.  The only mod was to get a 6mm wing nut and =
disconnect the heater.
Regards Michael

13) From: Brian Fowler
Thanks I will look into that.  I made 7 stops today looking for a stir crazy 
and struck out so I am back to the drawing board.  I may try to bolt down 
the plate on my and if that fails the the salton is a good 
alternative..........or online for another stir crazy.
Brian

14) From: Brian Fowler
I got it fixed up pretty nice.  I put 2 smooth headed bolts that run down 
through where the old bolts were located and all the way to the top stir 
plate.  It works well and looks pretty good.  Thanks for all of the advice.
Brian

15) From: raymanowen
A Stir Crazy, intact, really does a bang-up job on whatever popcorn kernels, EVO, soy oil, coconut oil, salt, sugar and lecithin happen to be in it. 
The Stir Crazy motor is about the same as used on microwave carousels- a veritable weakfish compared to the Bread machine drive motors 
On 3/31/07, Brian Fowler  wrote:
 
Yes probably a new one is the way to go.  I  did get it for a steal.......guess I know why now......lol.  I just hate to  pitch it.
  
 Brian


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