HomeRoast Digest


Topic: A beginner with questions (7 msgs / 196 lines)
1) From: Scott
Ok, so I've had the I-Roast2 for a couple of months now and I'm having a
heck of a time trying to figure out what settings to use for what roasts.  I
tend to gravitate towards the darker roasts, Vienna, Full-City and French.
The I-Roast came with 2 presets and 5 suggested custom settings, but how do
I figure out from the suggested customs, which roasts are which?  The
suggested roasts are at three different temps.  I'm presuming the higher the
temp the darker the roast.  So do I try and determine the roasts just using
a visual on the color of the beans and listening for the crack(s)?  What I
believe I'm failing at is determining for the three stages, what the optimum
temperatures are for each stage.  The rule of thumb I've been using
is....when I start getting alot of smoke, I cut off the process and go to
the cool down stage.  What I'm seeing though is a much darker bean for the
most part.  Not bad, but I don't think I'm getting the most out of the
flavor of each type of bean.
As an aside, I only roast/drink unleaded and I have on hand a bag of each of
SM's decaf beans.  Any guidance/wisdom would be most appreciated for this
nug (new guy) coffee roaster.
Many thanks in advance. I receive the digest versions of homeroast so please
feel free to respond directly back to my email address, jebiga3
-- 
SWO
"If guns kill people....
do pencils fail tests?"

2) From:
Scott, my lad,
I wish I could help ya but I cannot roast a decent decaf...
if I drank it I am sure I would but, not me. Maybe Eddie will see this, he is a great roaster.
ginny
---- Scott  wrote: 
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3) From: Larry Johnson
I've only roasted decaf once, so I'm no expert either, but generally decafs
get dark quicker than the others, IIRC. You might try using the Preset 1 and
just manually switch to cool-down 30 seconds to a minute sooner than you
have been. If you haven't been timing your roasts or noticing how much time
was left on the timer when you hit cool-down, start doing that. Don't wait
for " a lot of smoke", but hit it when you start to see any smoke at all -
after 1st crack is completely finished, that is. That may still be too dark,
in which case hit it sooner (duh).
.....and at this point I also defer to Eddie.
On 7/6/07, pchforever  wrote:
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-- 
Larry J
Whatever you do will be insignificant, but it is very important that you do
it.
  - Mahatma Gandhi

4) From: Eddie Dove
You folks are too kind, but thank you!
Scott,
I do not have an I-Roast2, but in my experience and coaching, decaf
needs to be treated a little more gently ... coaxing the temperature
increases.  The decaffeinating process sort of "damages" the bean
making it softer.
Ignore color.
For a few roasting sessions, pay very close attention and record the
timing of 1st and 2nd crack.  I understand that this may be difficult
in the "I-ROAR" and perhaps someone else has profiles they can share
with you.  Try stopping your roasts just before or just barely into
2nd crack, Full City / Full City +.  Records notes about how you liked
or didn't like the results and adjust from here.
Post your results back here (with as much detail as possible) and we
will continue to help you just like Sandy Andina and Justin Marquez
did for me!
Oh, and decaf can certainly be enjoyed right out of the roaster!
I hope this helps ...
Respectfully,
Eddie
-- 
Vita non est vivere sed valere vita est
Roasting Blog and Profiles for the Gene Cafehttp://southcoastcoffeeroaster.blogspot.com/On 7/6/07, Scott  wrote:
<Snip>

5) From: Vicki Smith
The one thing that seems to be really, really important with the IR2 and 
decaf is to put some chaff in the chaff collector to impede the airflow 
a bit. Now, if you have no chaff left over from high test, this could be 
a bit of a pickle. Perhaps someone else on the list can think of a chaff 
substitute that could be used for this purpose. Tom mentions this 
technique, btw, in his tip sheet. It really makes a huge difference 
slowing the roast down.
vicki

6) From: Larry English
The iRoast2 was my main roaster for about a year, and I roast a lot of
decafs.  One technique I used on the iRoast2 was to cover one of the two
screens on top of the chaff collector with foil - the effect being to get
the roast hotter faster, and perhaps more importantly, to allow the roast t=
o
reach higher temps at all.  This is a more controllable approach to the
"leave some chaff in the collector" idea.
What I would recommend, though, is to get at least two pounds of a decaf yo=
u
like and roast several batches to different levels.  You can pay attention
to color, since you are using the same bean from the same lot each time.
Your roaster will do a pretty good job of cooling, so the color you see whe=
n
you stop the roast will be very close to the final roast level. Use the sam=
e
profile each time - e.g. Preset 2, or a profile I used for decafs: 440 f=
or
4:00, 400 for 2:00, 440 4:00, 465 until ready (anywhere from 2 to =
4
minutes depending on the bean and ambient temp).  Be aware that the first
three minutes of the roast will be at 350 no matter what your profile.  =
But
you will only find the right profile for you by experimenting.
Larry
On 7/6/07, Vicki Smith  wrote:
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7) From: Scott
Many thanks to one and all.
I greatly appreciate the assistance.  I was unaware that the first 3 mins o=
f
the roast are at 350, despite the setting on the roaster, nor that decaf
will darken more quickly.  Those two tips alone will help immensely.  Will
continue to experiment.  I think I've over roasted some Komodo late last
nite as I kept watching for color despite the smoke.  I did read about
leaving chaff in the screen in order to obtain a higher temp, but I like th=
e
idea of covering a portion of the chaff collector.  Oh well....roast and
learn.  Again, thanks for the advice and guidance.
Scott
On 7/8/07, Larry English  wrote:
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-- 
SWO
"Religion is regarded by the common people
as true, by the wise as false, and by the
rulers as useful."


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