Ok, so I've had the I-Roast2 for a couple of months now and I'm having a heck of a time trying to figure out what settings to use for what roasts. I tend to gravitate towards the darker roasts, Vienna, Full-City and French. The I-Roast came with 2 presets and 5 suggested custom settings, but how do I figure out from the suggested customs, which roasts are which? The suggested roasts are at three different temps. I'm presuming the higher the temp the darker the roast. So do I try and determine the roasts just using a visual on the color of the beans and listening for the crack(s)? What I believe I'm failing at is determining for the three stages, what the optimum temperatures are for each stage. The rule of thumb I've been using is....when I start getting alot of smoke, I cut off the process and go to the cool down stage. What I'm seeing though is a much darker bean for the most part. Not bad, but I don't think I'm getting the most out of the flavor of each type of bean. As an aside, I only roast/drink unleaded and I have on hand a bag of each of SM's decaf beans. Any guidance/wisdom would be most appreciated for this nug (new guy) coffee roaster. Many thanks in advance. I receive the digest versions of homeroast so please feel free to respond directly back to my email address, jebiga3 -- SWO "If guns kill people.... do pencils fail tests?"
Scott, my lad, I wish I could help ya but I cannot roast a decent decaf... if I drank it I am sure I would but, not me. Maybe Eddie will see this, he is a great roaster. ginny ---- Scott wrote: <Snip>
I've only roasted decaf once, so I'm no expert either, but generally decafs get dark quicker than the others, IIRC. You might try using the Preset 1 and just manually switch to cool-down 30 seconds to a minute sooner than you have been. If you haven't been timing your roasts or noticing how much time was left on the timer when you hit cool-down, start doing that. Don't wait for " a lot of smoke", but hit it when you start to see any smoke at all - after 1st crack is completely finished, that is. That may still be too dark, in which case hit it sooner (duh). .....and at this point I also defer to Eddie. On 7/6/07, pchforever wrote: <Snip> -- Larry J Whatever you do will be insignificant, but it is very important that you do it. - Mahatma Gandhi
You folks are too kind, but thank you! Scott, I do not have an I-Roast2, but in my experience and coaching, decaf needs to be treated a little more gently ... coaxing the temperature increases. The decaffeinating process sort of "damages" the bean making it softer. Ignore color. For a few roasting sessions, pay very close attention and record the timing of 1st and 2nd crack. I understand that this may be difficult in the "I-ROAR" and perhaps someone else has profiles they can share with you. Try stopping your roasts just before or just barely into 2nd crack, Full City / Full City +. Records notes about how you liked or didn't like the results and adjust from here. Post your results back here (with as much detail as possible) and we will continue to help you just like Sandy Andina and Justin Marquez did for me! Oh, and decaf can certainly be enjoyed right out of the roaster! I hope this helps ... Respectfully, Eddie -- Vita non est vivere sed valere vita est Roasting Blog and Profiles for the Gene Cafehttp://southcoastcoffeeroaster.blogspot.com/On 7/6/07, Scott wrote: <Snip>
The one thing that seems to be really, really important with the IR2 and decaf is to put some chaff in the chaff collector to impede the airflow a bit. Now, if you have no chaff left over from high test, this could be a bit of a pickle. Perhaps someone else on the list can think of a chaff substitute that could be used for this purpose. Tom mentions this technique, btw, in his tip sheet. It really makes a huge difference slowing the roast down. vicki
The iRoast2 was my main roaster for about a year, and I roast a lot of decafs. One technique I used on the iRoast2 was to cover one of the two screens on top of the chaff collector with foil - the effect being to get the roast hotter faster, and perhaps more importantly, to allow the roast t= o reach higher temps at all. This is a more controllable approach to the "leave some chaff in the collector" idea. What I would recommend, though, is to get at least two pounds of a decaf yo= u like and roast several batches to different levels. You can pay attention to color, since you are using the same bean from the same lot each time. Your roaster will do a pretty good job of cooling, so the color you see whe= n you stop the roast will be very close to the final roast level. Use the sam= e profile each time - e.g. Preset 2, or a profile I used for decafs: 440º f= or 4:00, 400º for 2:00, 440º 4:00, 465º until ready (anywhere from 2 to = 4 minutes depending on the bean and ambient temp). Be aware that the first three minutes of the roast will be at 350º no matter what your profile. = But you will only find the right profile for you by experimenting. Larry On 7/6/07, Vicki Smith wrote: <Snip>
Many thanks to one and all. I greatly appreciate the assistance. I was unaware that the first 3 mins o= f the roast are at 350, despite the setting on the roaster, nor that decaf will darken more quickly. Those two tips alone will help immensely. Will continue to experiment. I think I've over roasted some Komodo late last nite as I kept watching for color despite the smoke. I did read about leaving chaff in the screen in order to obtain a higher temp, but I like th= e idea of covering a portion of the chaff collector. Oh well....roast and learn. Again, thanks for the advice and guidance. Scott On 7/8/07, Larry English wrote: <Snip> to <Snip> ach <Snip> u <Snip> Use <Snip> (anywhere <Snip> at <Snip> r <Snip> d <Snip> e <Snip> f <Snip> -- SWO "Religion is regarded by the common people as true, by the wise as false, and by the rulers as useful."