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Topic: Harbor Freight heat gun was Heroic FreshRoast+8 Bites the Dust (23 msgs / 445 lines)
1) From: Brian Kamnetz
On 9/22/07, David Morgenlender  wrote:
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I'm very eager to hear your reports on the Harbor Freight heat gun.
Brian

2) From: raymanowen
It should work fine if you filter the intake air somehow. The filter
nylon I put on my Wagner HG always blocks a fair amount of chaff, no
matter how I hold the HG.
Naturally, it wouldn't accumulate any chaff if I didn't have a filter
in place. Glorious Orange did almost 4 complete roasts that way.
Cheers, Mabuhay -RayO, aka Opa!
Got grinder?
On 9/22/07, Brian Kamnetz  wrote:
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3) From: Brian Kamnetz
Ray, did you do a postmortem on the People's Glorious Orange (PGO)
heatgun? There seems to be some disagreement regarding whether chaff
blows harmlessly through heatguns or whether it somehow damages the
heat gun. Also, some disagreement on what's worse, chaff blowing
through the heat gun or collecting on a filter, thereby reducing air
flow. I know you to be skilled in gadgets and also observant, and I'm
wondering what you saw in the Dead Orange that leads you to believe
that chaff was the cause of death of PGO.
Brian
On 9/22/07, raymanowen  wrote:
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4) From: raymanowen
Judging from the extremely fine brown dust that collects on the
louvers under the nylon sock on my Wagner HT 1000, a Question comes to
mind:
Just how would anybody know that All the chaff blows harmlessly
completely through their heatgun? Is there a Shipping/ Receiving desk
with a laboratory balance?
In lesser heatguns than the Masters and some of the Milwaukees, all
the airflow and suspended garbage flows directly through the Motor.
PGO had quite a load in the sleeve bearings, between the commutator
segments, in the brush housings and in the armature windings. And I
knew better!
The real fault occurred in the heater/ ballast element. It was a mess,
but the heater burned open and shorted to the ballast element. That
put nearly full line voltage on the diode bridge that feeds the low
voltage DC motor.
The motor should only get 15 - 20 volts, not 100 or more. That
explains the red, white and blue fireballs out of the heater element
and the ring of fire around the commutator. It did this while I was
holding it in my hand! It didn't buzz me before I yanked the power
plug, but It took a while to cool down. Maybe it's radioactive...
Cheers, Mabuhay -RayO, aka Opa!
On 9/23/07, Brian Kamnetz  wrote:
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5) From: Rich
So, to sum up for the easily confused or electrically/mechanically challenged.  If the air flow is 
through and/or around the motor then intake filtering with a non restrictive filter element is advised.  
Also a periodic disassemble, clean, and inspect is required to remove foreign material from bushings 
and other rotating parts.
Me, I will stick with the Master Appliance 751 series.  The chaff goes in and exits as a small fire ball.  
No residue on fan, motor, or element.
On Sun, 23 Sep 2007 17:07:12 -0600, raymanowen wrote:
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6) From: Vicki Smith
The Mastercraft gun I use was recently on sale for $15. The last one did 
100+ roasts before failing. I'm happy with it, very happy.
vicki

7) From: raymanowen
Nix, Nix on disassembling a heat gun to clean it out. Putting it back
together rong might be worse than having it turn into a hand-held
Roman Candle launcher.
If you really feel like cleaning a heat gun, just hook up a vacuum
hose and pull air through it backwards into the vacuum. If you Go
Outside, hook up the vacuum hose to the exhaust side of the vac. Blow
into the heatgun nozzle. Dust, crap and corruption will exit stage
rear.
Doing this within your domicile is a + + ungood plan.
The Master heatguns responded to being cleaned with spray brake
cleaner from the auto parts store. It's great for cleaning electrical
components like switches, because it leaves no residue. Just pull the
brushes and spray down the brush holders so they slide freely.
You'll be spraying the solvent directly on the commutator segments and
insulators, but you can do the commutator better if you replace the
brushes in the same orientation you removed them. Switch On the blower
only and spray towards the sparks of both brushes.
Don't overdo it- you're making Phosgene gas in tiny quantities with
chlorinated hydrocarbon solvents and electric arcs.
Cheers, Mabuhay -RayO, aka Opa!
On 9/23/07, Rich  wrote:
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-- 
"When the theme hits the bass, I dance the Jig!" - -Virgil Fox at the
Mighty Wichita (ex- NYC Paramount) WurliTzer- 1976

8) From: Brian Kamnetz
Many thanks to Ray and Rich for input on this thread.
Brian
On 9/23/07, raymanowen  wrote:
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9) From: Rich
I just saw something and neglected to comment on it before.
    It is this:
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Please note that some but not all "Brake Cleaners" are flammable and the propellant is ozone safe 
PROPANE.  Now the solvent may not burn / explode but the propane will.  Spray at your own risk.  I have 
seen many perfectly good mechanics loose all of the hair on their face in a flash.  The little sparks at 
the brush are more than adequate to initiate rapid combustion.
NOTE:  In deference to the digesters..... I have trimmed this message.
On Mon, 24 Sep 2007 10:47:41 -0400, Brian Kamnetz wrote:
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10) From: Justin Marquez
I have a much lesser cost heat gun than those you mention - a $29.95 Wagner.
I have used it for 2 years now, for at least one roast per week, probably
more like 3 roasts every 2 weeks, on probably in about 45 weeks out of those
2 years.  (I do use the RK drum sometimes.)
That's conservatively 135 HG roasts with the same el-cheapo heat gun. I do
think it is beginning to wear. I notice when I wave it around in roasting
that the pitch of the motor changes slightly - kind of a woo-woo-woo sound.
(Tom and Ray M.  would be proud of my description if only you could HEAR
it...)
So I expect that the end of it approaches due to bearing wear.
Roaster Hardware Amortized Cost:
$30/(135 roasts * 0.5 lb/roast) = $0.444/lb roasted.
More than I would have thought.  Of course, other devices costing more must
roast a *lot* more coffee to hit that cost level.
Behmor at $299 would need to roast 673 lbs without a hitch. Assuming 3/4
lb/batch, that means about 900 troube-free roasts. Brand new device... can
we count on it for 900 roasts without a hiccough?
RK Drum (not counting the grill - almost everyone already has a grill) would
need to roast about the same amount. (I think we can count on that one!)
Safe Journeys and Sweet Music
Justin Marquez (CYPRESS, TX)
On 9/24/07, raymanowen  wrote:
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11) From: Rich
Master heat guns can be found used at a very reasonable price.  They also have other applications 
other than roasting coffee.  If you find one it will probably last longer than you will.
Homeroasting is not really a cost effective exercise.
--Original Message Text---
From: Justin Marquez
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2007 16:26:28 +0100
I have a much lesser cost heat gun than those you mention - a $29.95 Wagner. I have used it for 2 
years now, for at least one roast per week, probably more like 3 roasts every 2 weeks, on probably in 
about 45 weeks out of those 2 years.  (I do use the RK drum sometimes.)   
That's conservatively 135 HG roasts with the same el-cheapo heat gun. I do think it is beginning to 
wear. I notice when I wave it around in roasting that the pitch of the motor changes slightly - kind of a 
woo-woo-woo sound. (Tom and Ray M.  would be proud of my description if only you could HEAR it...) 
So I expect that the end of it approaches due to bearing wear.
Roaster Hardware Amortized Cost:
$30/(135 roasts * 0.5 lb/roast) = $0.444/lb roasted.
More than I would have thought.  Of course, other devices costing more must roast a *lot* more coffee 
to hit that cost level.
Behmor at $299 would need to roast 673 lbs without a hitch. Assuming 3/4 lb/batch, that means 
about 900 troube-free roasts. Brand new device... can we count on it for 900 roasts without a 
hiccough?
RK Drum (not counting the grill - almost everyone already has a grill) would need to roast about the 
same amount. (I think we can count on that one!)
Safe Journeys and Sweet Music
Justin Marquez (CYPRESS, TX) 
On 9/24/07, raymanowen  wrote: In lesser heatguns than the 
Masters and some of the Milwaukees, all
the airflow and suspended garbage flows directly through the Motor. 
PGO had quite a load in the sleeve bearings, between the commutator
segments, in the brush housings and in the armature windings. And I
knew better!

12) From: Dan Bollinger
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
Was it supposed to be?  I break even on my coffee hobby when compared to =
store-bought. But then that's a lot better than any of my other hobbies! =
  Dan
  Homeroasting is not really a cost effective exercise.

13) From: raymanowen
I did use spray cans (with little plastic straws) of 1,1,1
trichloroethylene when I was given a case by a nameless screen
printing supplier. Charlie could no longer sell them, and the stuff
was super for electrical cleaning. I never saw any of the 1,1,1
trichlor or the F12 propellant enter the atmosphere or destroy any
Ozone.
Twenty years? prior to getting the case of 24- 16oz 1,1,1spray cans, I
had been using LPS Electrical Contact Cleaner. $3.27/ can in case lots
from WWGrainger's. When I ran out, the price had escalated
Hellaciously. The automotive brake cleaner was on special for about
$0.97 per 12oz spray can with the little straws. Totally
non-flammable, and worked well.
The stuff available now would make a neat flame thrower, but I haven't
seen it as cheap. Get whatever is cheapest. If it's flammable, run the
blower to get it spinning, then pull the plug and give it a shot of
solvent.
Of course, you were doing all of this outside so the ozone-harmless
chemicals won't explode or asphyxiate you. Now it's safe for the
environment but harmful for critters. Some of this snake oil is
explosive and carcinogenic, but environmentally safe.
Cheers, Mabuhay -RayO, aka Opa!
Ask your Doctor if it's right for you-
On 9/23/07, raymanowen  wrote:
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14) From: Rich
In some places all that is available is a product that will neither harm the ozone or you and is not 
flammable.  It is also useless and costs $6.95 a can...But is is safe.....
I like the 1,1,1 trichloroethylene propelled with R-12.  Works very well and the trichlor is very tough to 
ignite.
On Mon, 24 Sep 2007 14:21:38 -0600, raymanowen wrote:
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15) From: John Brown
Ray i remember using it in the early 60's to clean electrical 
components.  either  in the spray can or by the gallon.  the problem was 
not  for the atmosphere but for people it was determineed to be a cancer 
risk.  maybe why i have cancer now.
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16) From: John Brown
ah yes, but the r 12 when burned in the open air  makes Phosgene a nerve 
gas.  or so i was told oh so many years ago.
Rich wrote:
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17) From: Rich
The R-12 decomposes into phosgene in the presence of high heat, flame temperature.  The trichlor 
will burn at a lower temperatue.  It is a trichlor vapor rapid combustion that you watch out for.  It is 
carbon tetrachloride that is very easy to convert to phosgene with the addition of a little heat, very 
little.
Ray mentioned the small ammount of phosgene produced when spraying down running motors.
On Mon, 24 Sep 2007 17:37:41 -0700, John Brown wrote:
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tough to 
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18) From: raymanowen
R-12 refrigeration systems were prone to destroy themselves when dirt
or congealed oil would block the expansion valve. The blocked liquid
line could often cause high temperature and pressure in the high
inertia compressor.
Modern compressors have no flywheel, using a common armature and
crankshaft. They stall easily and trip a resetting circuit breaker. I
think the superheated refrigerant decomposes in a fire to the
following toxic and/or corrosive fumes : Carbonyl fluoride, Carbon
monoxide, Phosgene, Hydrogen chloride, Hydrogen fluoride.
The acids are purely unpleasant and cause choking along with equipment
destruction.
Cheers, Mabuhay -RayO, aka Opa!
On 9/24/07, John Brown  wrote:
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-- 
"When the theme hits the bass, I dance the Jig!" - -Virgil Fox at the
Mighty Wichita (ex- NYC Paramount) WurliTzer- 1976

19) From: Rich
The old oils wee petrolium based and did not like the acid.  The new -134a is even nastyer when it 
decomposes and is toxic without benefiit of decomposition.
On Mon, 24 Sep 2007 19:48:16 -0600, raymanowen wrote:
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20) From: John Brown
could be Ray , don't know my self. but remember from the fire party 
training ac space fires always required a OBA
R 8 , R12, R22 and on the labels some where DICHLROFLUROMETHANE.   god 
had to read the labels to keep from gong stur crazy
raymanowen wrote:
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21) From: Justin Marquez
Ahhh... but the hole in the ozone layer is *much* safer now...
On 9/25/07, Rich  wrote:
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22) From: Brett Mason
I have put all my volcanoes over to "OFF" in order to protect the ozone
layer.  I would encourage all to do the same....
Brett
On 9/25/07, Justin Marquez  wrote:
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-- 
Cheers,
Bretthttp://homeroast.freeservers.com

23) From: Rich
Cork up the domestic animals also....
--Original Message Text---
From: Brett Mason
Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2007 10:00:25 -0500
I have put all my volcanoes over to "OFF" in order to protect the ozone layer.  I would encourage all to do 
the same....
Brett
On 9/25/07, Justin Marquez  wrote: Ahhh... but the hole in the ozone layer is 
*much* safer now... 
On 9/25/07, Rich  wrote:   The new -134a is even nastyer when it decomposes 
and is toxic without benefiit of decomposition.
-- 
Cheers,
Bretthttp://homeroast.freeservers.com


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