This is a multi-part message in MIME format. About three months ago, after drinking La Minita at a B&B, I had to try = home roasting. On Tom's statement that Fresh Roast produced a worthy = product, I bought one (complete with samples) from S&M and dived in. = Initial results were so agreeable that I decided to move up and bought a = iRoast2 with another round of samples and a pound of La Minita from SM. = Frequent frustration set in. Nearly every iR2 roast, up to and including a Dark and Oily Vienna = roast, produced a bitter cup, in some cases with the bitterness mild = enough to be hidden under breakfast cafe-au-lait, heavy on the lait as = they make it in France. Some of the very advanced coffee-freaks (which = I aspire to become) had sneered at the presets on the iR2, so I tried to = set other recommended profiles, with little or new improvement. The = latter experiments made me start noticing the temperature during the = roasting process and (a-hah!) my roaster never exceeded 285F in the = first phase and never, ever exceeded 390F. Never got hot enough to = produce audible second crack, but then I am deafish. Does baking beans = produce bitterness? Returned to Fresh Roast, with results quite tolerable, and noticed that = 4:30-5 minutes I get what I believe to be a full city roast. My = household voltage must not be the problem, since my FreshRoast seems to = produce heat at par-plus levels. I grind with my Zassenhaus tweenie, and brew with Melitta, Moka and = French Press. Would welcome advice.
<Snip> this format, some or all of this message may not be legible. Short advice? Looks like you got a lemon. I have had i-R and i-R2s exhibit other quirks, like running hot, cracking lids or stalling out on all but th= e smallest batches of heavy dense beans, but never running too coolčand the fact that your FR seems to do just fine tells me that a variac would not cure the problem. Write to Hearthware and see what they say. -- Sandy Andina www.myspace.com/sandyandina Www.myspace.com/sassandthesasstrio On 11/18/07 8:24 PM, "johnmhowison" wrote: <Snip> ome <Snip> I <Snip> ts <Snip> ther <Snip> set <Snip> , <Snip> e <Snip> me) <Snip> d <Snip> y <Snip> 90F. <Snip> sh. <Snip> :30-5 <Snip> ge <Snip> -plus <Snip> h <Snip>
This is a multi-part message in MIME format. John, can't add a thing to Sandy's advice on the iR2. I used to use one = and if anything it was a constant struggle to slow it down, not to = finish a roast! Call Hearthware on that one. Everybody has their favorite roaster or roast method, best choice will = be the one that works best for your situation and your consumption rate, = but I've never regretted spending a few months using HGDB. It's cheap, = it's fun, it's dead-bone simple and you'll learn more about the coffee, = it's smell, sound and even the feel as the beans get lighter and are = easier to stir. Google "heat gun dog bowl" I moved on because I wanted more repeatability, but be assured that the = heat gun and dog bowl are ready on the shelf in the garage, just in = case. Michael
I have an iR2 as a backup to my HG/BrM and it started doing the same thing, only worse - I couldn't even get to 1st crack. Called Hearthware, they had me send in the power base. They replaced it and it's been fine ever since (well, it's done 4 - 5 roasts and no prob). On 11/18/07, johnmhowison wrote: <Snip> -- Larry J
This is a multi-part message in MIME format. Newbie, I've been using an iRoastsince there were only IR1's and have = come up with a profie that has seened to work over a variety of beansand = roast levels It came out of SM's helps. If I remember right, Tom would = use it when he was cupping samples. I just listened for the cracks and = hit the cool button when needed. 350 for 3 minutes, 400 for 3 minutes, and for the final, 450 for 3 = minutes. If I'm roasting outside, I may make some adjustments due to = wind and or temperature. I may be too simplistic, but it's provided some = darned good coffee over the last several years. PAUL CARDER