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Topic: Behmor - slight problem (12 msgs / 356 lines)
1) From: Dave Huddle
Yesterday, during my first no-bean cycle, the drum stopped rotating 2
or 3 times.   It started rotating again when I opened and firmly
closed the door, or whacked the left side of the roaster.   That was a
cause for concern!
A second no-bean cycle a few minutes later had no problem.
Today, during a 1/4 lb. roast, drum rotation stopped.   It restarted
when I whacked the roaster on the left end.
Has anyone else had this failure to rotate problem?    Like the manual
says, do not leave the roaster unattended!
Two 8.0z. roasts were completed with no problems.   El Salvador -
Organic Bourbon Cultivar and Ethiopian Harar Horse - lot 14659.   Both
roasted on A/P1 - added maybe a minute to the EHH near the end.
Both yielded 6.6 oz.   Very even roasts.   Maybe 4 or 5 beans of the
EHH were stuck in the mesh drum.
I really like the capacity, the quietness and the fact that I can see
the beans.    The latter two items are great improvements over my
(worn out) Alpenrost.

2) From: Steve
That seems like it would be cause for concern; I'd email Tom or Behmor
and see if they can explain it, you might have a defective unit.  I
can't say, because I've only roasted one batch so far, but it didn't
pause during the clean cycle or the roast I did.
On Nov 21, 9:24 pm, "Dave Huddle"
<137trimethyl26dioxopur...> wrote:
<Snip>

3) From: Alchemist John
Check in with Joe, but I suspect a loose wire from the motor to the 
circuit board.  If you remove the right panel you can easily tract 
the motor wire and verify it is connected well.  I bet it is that 
simple.  There is no continuous signal (just an on and off signal), 
so it the intermitentness has to be from a lack of power.
At 18:24 11/21/2007, you wrote:
<Snip>
John Nanci
AlChemist at large
Zen Roasting , Blending & Espresso pulling by Gestalthttp://www.chocolatealchemy.com/

4) From: Bob Hazen
I had a similar issue during my break-in cycle.  The drum stopped about 
half-way through the cycle.  It made some popping/clanking sound and moved 
in a jerky manner.  Then it stopped turning altogether.  I hit cool and let 
it finish up.
The best I can figure is that the square drive peg wasn't fully engaged. 
There's not a lot of engagement anyway and if the drum moves to the left a 
bit, the square peg looses its grip.  I found that the groove on the left 
end of the shaft needs to be well aligned with the mating piece on the wall 
of the roaster.  I think that an empty drum just makes it easier for the 
groove to pop out, let the shaft slip to the left and disengage the square 
peg.  I re-ran the break in cycle and then did two more roasts without 
difficulty.  I'll be looking for this when I get five roasts done and need 
to perform the self-clean.
Bob

5) From: David Morgenlender
I had a similar problem today, my second day using the Behmor.  It =
happened the
first time on my first 1 lb. roast.  I looked in after 3 or 4 minutes =
after
watching the drum start correctly.  The drum was rocking back & forth.  =
After a
lot of playing around with problems on multiple, but not all, roasts =
(sometimes
just not turning), I think I figured it out.  I think the problem is how =
the
right hand (squarish) pin at the end of the drum fits into its socket.
For the first few roasts the pin only went in very slightly, but it =
worked ok.
Before the first problem roast, the pin went far in ... so far, the left =
pin
couldn't reach its slot;  this happened again a few times.  When this =
happened,
it was very difficult to get the pin back out.  So I found the best =
approach to
be getting the right pin in a little & dropping the left pin into its =
slot.
Then moving the drum to the right until it felt like the right pin seated=
 in its
socket.  While figuring all this out, I was able to get a stalled drum =
moving
again by using a knife on the left side of the drum to move it to the =
right to
seat the pin.
I think for the first few roasts the right pin did not go in far enough =
because
the fit was too tight;  but the tight fit let it work properly.  As =
things
loosened up, the pin wasn't going in far enough.  If it wasn't in far =
enough to
turn the drum at all, the drum didn't turn.  But if it was in just a =
little
further, the drum could turn a little, then the pin slipped in the socket=
 & the
drum rocked back.  If the drum wasn't installed, the socket turned fine.
Pushing the right pin in a bit further solved the problem.  This is =
probably why
the manual says to be sure the pin is seated properly ... unfortunately, =
the
definition of "properly" changes as the thing is worn in!
If my theory is correct I doubt any damage was caused by the drum =
stalling,
since the socket did in fact turn, and there was probably not enough wear=
 on the
pin & socket to cause a future problem.  But I would like to hear what =
Joe has
to say about this!
Dave
On Wed, 21 Nov 2007 21:24:41 -0500, you wrote:
<Snip>
unsvbscribes) go to =http://sweetmarias.com/maillistinfo.html#personalsettings==========================
==========================
=====
Dave Morgenlender
e-mail: dmorgen
==========================
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6) From: Aaron
This sounds like a problem with the drum alignment.   See on the right 
side the pin is square (make sure you are putting the drum in correctly, 
there IS a difference)  on the left side it's more a hook, the shank 
just lays there.  When you go to put your drum in, make sure you insert 
it in the right hand side first, you might have to rotate the drum by 
hand at first to get the shank to actually engage the drive mechanism 
(that square peg in round hole thingie :)  once it aligns the drum shank 
should fit smoothly into the drive hole,  then move the rest of the drum 
where it belongs and lay it on the rest on the left hand side.  On the 
drive side if you look, the shank is square and once you go past the 
square part there is like a little indention cut into the shaft.  if it 
is in properly, the shaft will slide into the drive almost all the way 
to the indention.   On the other side, it's kind of similar,  the shaft 
is rounded but there is a little groove cut into it as well,  the shaft 
should rest on the support with the support in the groove.
There is a hell of a lot of torque in that little motor, and the binding 
would have to be pretty severe for it to be stopping it like that, Im 
thinking the drum just was not installed all the way,  it IS possible to 
get the drum to hang in therre backwards for no spin, or putting it in 
right but not pushing the shank all the way into the drive, so it's just 
kind of bopping it when the drive turns.   Picture trying to open a 
mayonaise jar using your entire hand for leverage .vs. just your fingers 
when you dont fully engage the support, it will t urn the drum somewhat 
as the drive bumps the corners of the shank but doesn't have the full 
contact to transfor the torque through entirely to keep it turning.....  
if that makes sense...
E mail the site and I bet he can tell you some other stuff as well to 
check if that doesn't fix it.  Please let us know how it turns out.
Aaron

7) From: Dave Huddle
I've email Joe already.    I do not think the problem is alignment of
the drum, since I can hear the motor stop running.
My uneducated guess is the electrical thing Alchemist mentioned
earlier in this thread.
Anyway,  I'll let Joe have his Turkey Day today, and get in touch with
him Friday.
I'll update this thread when I have more information.
Happy Thanksgiving Day to all!     Enjoy the day and be thankful for
Tom, Maria, Ben and all the others there,   and for Joe Behm hard
work!
Dave
Westerville, OH

8) From: Dave Huddle
Wow,  Joe is a _FIRST CLASS_ guy!  and Alchemist was correct too.   It
was a loose connection inside the right side.   Joe emailed some info,
then called me and walked me through the procedure to fix it.  It is
loose no more!
The time required for the fix was very short, especially compared to
our phone conversation about his Ohio roots, OSU football, etc, etc.
 The roaster is back together and a 1/2 lb empty run showed no
problems.
I'd advise those who are interested in the roaster, but reluctant to
buy because of it's newness, to loose your reluctance!.
Although I read comments about HG/DB, HG/BM, SC/TO,  etc.  I don't
choose to work that hard to get fresh roasted coffee.  So, for me, the
Behmor is the way to go.
Dave,
Westerville, Oh
On Nov 22, 2007 11:49 AM, Dave Huddle
<137trimethyl26dioxopurine> wrote:
<Snip>

9) From: Alchemist John
Congrats Dave,
No argument there.  Joe is first class.  In the same league as 
Tom.  What he cares about is YOU.  Damn I sound like a shill - too 
bad.  Joe does rock.
I have hinted at it, but never said it outright, but to the point 
that I am "allowed", if you have questions about the workings of the 
Behmor, and can't get Joe, ask.  I have torn them down to the frame 
(the modder in me couldn't help it) and pretty much completely 
understand how they work from an engineering stand point, in no small 
thanks to Joe.  The motor couldn't really have been anything else 
than a loose connection.
At 11:55 11/22/2007, you wrote:
<Snip>
John Nanci
AlChemist at large
Zen Roasting , Blending & Espresso pulling by Gestalthttp://www.chocolatealchemy.com/

10) From: Aaron
Glad to hear the roaster is back in operation.  Glad it was only 
something like a connection too and a 5 minute fix.  From looking at the 
roaster it is looking like pretty much everything in it, from the quartz 
lamps, to the motor etc, should the need unfortunately arise, can be 
fixed pretty easily.  I don't see it needing that though, thing is, 
being as simple and straightforward as it is, there is very little to 
break really.   Only thing Id be afraid of is a lightning strike, and I 
have protection from that too... it's called dumping the grid and going 
on my own power until the storm passes.
Now, for the help ::cough cough:: in helping you fix your roaster, you 
owe me a few pounds of roasted beans....  just kidding,... im err, kind 
of full..... did about 8 pounds today .... oof....... now to box em and 
get them out in the mail to folks.
Aaron

11) From: Sandra Andina
I had a slight crisis too--early into my last roast before heading to  
dinner, the drum slipped off axis and stopped rotating. I hit "cool"  
and it rotated again; I hit "off," secured the drum and programmed a 3  
min, roast time to take me back up through 1st crack but the fuse  
kicked in and nothing happened at all--not even any of the LEDs  
lighting.  Went to dinner (bearing my freshly roasted Sumatra which  
drew raves) worrying all night long.
Not to worry. Came home. Just started it back up again and finished  
the rest of my Monkey Blend roast 5 sec. into 2nd.   Wotta machine!!!
On Nov 22, 2007, at 1:55 PM, Dave Huddle wrote:
<Snip>
Sandy Andina
www.myspace.com/sandyandina

12) From: David Morgenlender
I agree about Joe!  I've gotten 2 answers from him via email, & he even =
offered
to speak on the phone about the 2nd problem (which probably won't be =
necessary):
- Squeek ... use some vegetable (e.g. olive) oil on a q-tip on the left =
peg's
slot.  I didn't get a single squeek in the 4 roasts since.
- Drum rocking, not turning, etc.  I was on the right track in terms of =
the
tight fit & inserting the right (square) peg the proper distance.  He =
suggested
taking a little emory paper to the square drum peg, so it fits properly =
into its
hole in the roaster.  I haven't done this yet, nor have I roasted since
encountering the problem;  but it sounds like the perfect solution.
Dave
On Thu, 22 Nov 2007 12:05:30 -0800, you wrote:
<Snip>
of
<Snip>
with
<Snip>http://sweetmarias.com/maillistinfo.html#personalsettings<Snip>
==========================
==========================
=====
Dave Morgenlender
e-mail: dmorgen
==========================
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