HomeRoast Digest


Topic: HotTop Model and House Voltage (4 msgs / 229 lines)
1) From: Lex Johnson
Hi Group:
'Haven't contributed for a long time.  Anyway, I was considering
"downgrading" my HotTop "P" to a "B" to get more control over roasting
process.  I have one of the very first "P"'s available to the general public
and, if I understood Michael correctly, doesn't have the voltage
stabilization unit. Here is what he told me:
"I need to know which version of the main power supplier board you have?
This will tell me you need to swap out both the main power supplier board
and control circuit board or just the control circuit board.  Please remove
rear fan (4 screws) and rear plastic cover (8 screws). There is a 6 pins
component in the front of the heat sink (located in the middle of the main
power supplier board, please refer to diagram 20,http://www.hottopusa.com/upgrade_B_A1.pdf)Does that component a black 6-pin
component I96015 650kk or a white component MOC3063 633Q?  If you have the
black 6-pin component, then you just need to swap out the control circuit
board and I will send you one to exchange.
Thanks
Michael"
Also, does anyone have some "tried and true"  roast profiles they wouldn't
mind sharing for the HotTop "p"?
Thanks,
JavaJohnson

2) From: Cameron Forde
Hi Lex,
I haven't checked out the P very carefully, but I think you would be
moving in the wrong direction to "upgrade" to a B.  Upgrading just the
main power supply board might be worthwhile if it wasn't part of your
original machine (and if you paid the full price one might hope that
the Hottop people would see you right).  If you are not comfortable
taking the machine apart to check the connections that Michael
mentioned, an indirect check might be to burn up a batch of beans
(300g) at full power with no fan and see how long it takes for them to
get to first crack.  If it is much longer than 12-13 min then I would
guess that you have the old board.  It is not that hard to replace the
board -- less than an hour.  If you have a digital camera you can take
a picture of the innards when you first open up the back so that you
can verify your have everything hooked up correctly before you
reassemble.
Good luck!
Cameron
On Thu, Feb 28, 2008 at 2:13 PM, Lex Johnson  wrote:
<Snip>
-- 
ceforde
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3) From: Lex Johnson
Hi Group:
'Haven't contributed for a long time.  Anyway, I was considering
"downgrading" my HotTop "P" to a "B" to get more control over roasting
process.  I have one of the very first "P"'s available to the general public
and, if I understood Michael correctly, doesn't have the voltage
stabilization unit. Here is what he told me:
"I need to know which version of the main power supplier board you have?
This will tell me you need to swap out both the main power supplier board
and control circuit board or just the control circuit board.  Please remove
rear fan (4 screws) and rear plastic cover (8 screws). There is a 6 pins
component in the front of the heat sink (located in the middle of the main
power supplier board, please refer to diagram 20,http://www.hottopusa.com/upgrade_B_A1.pdf)Does that component a black 6-pin
component I96015 650kk or a white component MOC3063 633Q?  If you have the
black 6-pin component, then you just need to swap out the control circuit
board and I will send you one to exchange.
Thanks
Michael"
Also, does anyone have some "tried and true"  roast profiles they wouldn't
mind sharing for the HotTop "p"?
Thanks,
JavaJohnson

4) From: Lex Johnson
Hi Cameron:
I didn't explain very well -I did check it out and I have the older board
-just wanted others to know.  Thanks for your input on the "upgrade".  I
probably won't convert, but would still like to glean the roasting profiles
from others in the group.
-Lex


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