HomeRoast Digest


Topic: SC/TO repair/upgrade- deleted the other thread (7 msgs / 158 lines)
1) From: Sean Cary
Got the bolt (1/4 SS 1 1/4) JB Welded into the socket (note - block the
square opening or it fills up with JB Weld...)
After drilling two "sight" holes - that were too high for the heater switch
(yeah I was in a rush - got tiling, cabinets and a garage to square away
this week - you take combat leave the month AFTER you return...tax free
days!)...
Added the AC off/on switch, fired up the SC and it turned - no heat, hit the
On and the wires glowed (visible through the sight holes!!)  So I did the
sight holes on purpose...I am sticking to that story.
I put a fender washer over the top of the socket to align the bolt and make
a heat shield?  Two jam nuts under a washer in the opening, then washers
pinning the stock stirring arm.
Fired it up - all works/turns appears to be straight, that was my biggest
concern.
I let the JB harden until today - will roast up a pound today and check it
all out.
Off to wainscoting - and grouting today.
Sean
-- 
Sean M. Cary
Major USMC
Tempus Fugit, Memento Mori
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2) From: Ron Feroni
Sean,
 
       You are a busy man!  
 
       I've been trying to follow your SC/TO thread as this is what I also roast in.  I was wondering how you went about seperating the heating element from the fan, and can you also control the fan speed?
 
       I would love to control the heat a little better(ok alot better) in my SC/TO.  The heat variation is around 80*-100*!!. This is waaaaay unexceptacle for roasting coffee.  Sounds like you came up with a pretty good idea on how to get a little better control. 
 
     Good luck, let us know how it turns out...
 
Ron> Date: Thu, 6 Mar 2008 06:54:56 -0500> From: smcary> To: homeroast> Subject: [Homeroast] SC/TO repair/upgrade- deleted the other thread> > Got the bolt (1/4 SS 1 1/4) JB Welded into the socket (note - block the> square opening or it fills up with JB Weld...)> > After drilling two "sight" holes - that were too high for the heater switch> (yeah I was in a rush - got tiling, cabinets and a garage to square away> this week - you take combat leave the month AFTER you return...tax free> days!)...> > Added the AC off/on switch, fired up the SC and it turned - no heat, hit the> On and the wires glowed (visible through the sight holes!!) So I did the> sight holes on purpose...I am sticking to that story.> > I put a fender washer over the top of the socket to align the bolt and make> a heat shield? Two jam nuts under a washer in the opening, then washers> pinning the stock stirring arm.> > Fired it up - all works/turns appears to be straight, t
 hat was my biggest> concern.> > I let the JB harden until today - will roast up a pound today and check it> all out.> > Off to wainscoting - and grouting today.> > Sean> > -- > Sean M. Cary> Major USMC> Tempus Fugit, Memento Mori>> Homeroast mailing list> Homeroast>http://biggestloser.msn.com/Homeroast mailing list">http://lists.sweetmariascoffee.com/listinfo.cgi/homeroast-sweetmariascoffee.comShed those extra pounds with MSN and The Biggest Loser!http://biggestloser.msn.com/Homeroast mailing list
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3) From: Sean Cary
I only separated the SC part of the SC/TO (my TO is actually a GG Galloping
Gourmet) - the Convection Oven/TO/GG is not in my plans to modify any time
soon...maybe on a cold winter day next year.
The SC was easy - just put a switch in line with the heating element - just
know that you have to mount the bugger really really low...
Sean
On Thu, Mar 6, 2008 at 11:39 AM, Ron Feroni  wrote:
<Snip>
-- 
Sean M. Cary
Major USMC
Tempus Fugit, Memento Mori
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4) From: Ron Feroni
Gotcha.  I misunderstood.  I just disconnected the SC part when I first assembled mine.  I am wanting to figure out a cheap way to control the heating element and fan seperately.  Been looking for a variac to control heat but nothing yet.  I think a dimmer switch wired to the fan should work....
 
Ron> Date: Thu, 6 Mar 2008 13:01:14 -0500> From: smcary> To: homeroast> Subject: Re: [Homeroast] SC/TO repair/upgrade- deleted the other thread> > I only separated the SC part of the SC/TO (my TO is actually a GG Galloping> Gourmet) - the Convection Oven/TO/GG is not in my plans to modify any time> soon...maybe on a cold winter day next year.> > The SC was easy - just put a switch in line with the heating element - just> know that you have to mount the bugger really really low...> > Sean> > On Thu, Mar 6, 2008 at 11:39 AM, Ron Feroni  wrote:> > >> > Sean,> >> > You are a busy man!> >> > I've been trying to follow your SC/TO thread as this is what I also> > roast in. I was wondering how you went about seperating the heating element> > from the fan, and can you also control the fan speed?> >> > I would love to control the heat a little better(ok alot better) in> > my SC/TO. The heat variation is around 80*-100*!!. This 
 is waaaaay> > unexceptacle for roasting coffee. Sounds like you came up with a pretty> > good idea on how to get a little better control.> >> > Good luck, let us know how it turns out...> >> > Ron> Date: Thu, 6 Mar 2008 06:54:56 -0500> From: smcary> To:> > homeroast> Subject: [Homeroast] SC/TO> > repair/upgrade- deleted the other thread> > Got the bolt (1/4 SS 1 1/4) JB> > Welded into the socket (note - block the> square opening or it fills up with> > JB Weld...)> > After drilling two "sight" holes - that were too high for the> > heater switch> (yeah I was in a rush - got tiling, cabinets and a garage to> > square away> this week - you take combat leave the month AFTER you> > return...tax free> days!)...> > Added the AC off/on switch, fired up the SC> > and it turned - no heat, hit the> On and the wires glowed (visible through> > the sight holes!!) So I did the> sight holes on purpose...I am sticking to> > that story.> > I put a fender w
 asher over the top of the socket to align the> > bolt and make> a heat shield? Two jam nuts under a washer in the opening,> > then washers> pinning the stock stirring arm.> > Fired it up - all> > works/turns appears to be straight, t> > hat was my biggest> concern.> > I let the JB harden until today - will> > roast up a pound today and check it> all out.> > Off to wainscoting - and> > grouting today.> > Sean> > -- > Sean M. Cary> Major USMC> Tempus Fugit,> > Memento Mori>> Homeroast> > mailing list> Homeroast>> >http://biggestloser.msn.com/>>> > Homeroast mailing list> > Homeroast> >> >http://lists.sweetmariascoffee .com/listinfo.cgi/homeroast-sweetmariascoffee.com> >> > > > -- > Sean M. Cary> Major USMC> Tempus Fugit, Memento Mori>> Homeroast mailing list> Homeroast>http://lists.sweetmariascoffee.com/listinfo.cgi/homeroast-sweetmariascoffee.comConnect and share in new ways with Windows Live.http://www.windowslive.com/share.html?ocidT_TAGHM_Wave2_sharelife_012008Homeroast mailing list">http://lists.sweetmariascoffee.com/listinfo.cgi/homeroast-sweetmariascoffee.com>>> > Shed those extra pounds with MSN and The Biggest Loser!> >http://biggestloser.msn.com/>>> > Homeroast mailing list> > Homeroast> >> >http://lists.sweetmariascoffee .com/listinfo.cgi/homeroast-sweetmariascoffee.com> >> > > > -- > Sean M. Cary> Major USMC> Tempus Fugit, Memento Mori>> Homeroast mailing list> Homeroast>http://lists.sweetmariascoffee.com/listinfo.cgi/homeroast-sweetmariascoffee.comConnect and share in new ways with Windows Live.http://www.windowslive.com/share.html?ocidT_TAGHM_Wave2_sharelife_012008Homeroast mailing list
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5) From: bv welch
Ron,
You might try a "router speed controller" for heat control.  You can find
them on sale at Harbor Freight for $10. I haven't tried one myself, but some
folks over at Homeroasters.org are using them for various projects, instead
of a variac.
Bill
On Thu, Mar 6, 2008 at 12:10 PM, Ron Feroni  wrote:
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6) From: John Despres
Be sure to check your fan, first. The router speed control is built for =
motors with brushes.
John
bv welch wrote:
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me
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e.com
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616.437.9182
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7) From: bv welch
John,
I was suggesting trying to use it on the heat, not the fan.  Like I said, I
haven't tried it myself yet.
Bill
On Thu, Mar 6, 2008 at 1:07 PM, John Despres 
wrote:
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