HomeRoast Digest


Topic: Modiification wasRE: coffee maker (9 msgs / 437 lines)
1) From: Bill
A post from Aaron in October that deals with this.  I've never done it since
I've never actually owned an auto drip.  Is that strange?  I hadn't thought
about it, but I've used a French Press since college because it was always
easier to replace and move the equipment.  I ran a bunch of crud through the
FP, especially *$, but also plenty of folgers (wow, to think!!!).  Anyway,
here's the post, see if it works for you...
---------- Forwarded message ----------
From: Aaron Scholten 
Date: Oct 30, 2007 6:01 PM
Subject: Re: +Brewers
To: homeroast
Well sarcasm is part of the bonus plan,... deal with it..... you come
out of nowhere with a smart comment and  attitude like that and you
think nobody is going to not respond in kind... you should know better.
Now onto your coffee pot..... Is it worth it to you?    Were you happy
with the coffee you got from your kweezynart?  If so, then you probably
can do just as well with a bunn, or mr coffee, or what ever the other
brands are that run maybe 30 to 40 bucks each.  I had a Mr coffee that
while the thing was terribly slow to brew, lasted years and years and
went on more than one med cruise with me where it made probably close to
ten pots a day.  To be honest the thing is about ten years old now, it
still runs, but is sitting in a closet, since I took up this
methodology, I really no longer use it.
The main thing I see about the techy is that it puts out the water at
the proper temp.  ie 195 - 205  plus or minus a few degrees.  This is
what most claim is the most important thing about drip brewing....  Now
with that, depending on how adept you are at tinkering, I have mod'ed
many coffee pots to put out the hot water at the right temp as well....
See they all have a little thingie in the bottom that basically boils a
bit of water, it steams and the steam pushes the rest of the near
boiling water, up the tube and out the spout into the grounds.  this
causes a check valve thingie to go gurgle klunk and let more water in to
heat up, partially boil and spurt out as well....  The big problem is
that the tube that brings the water from the boiler chamber (very loose
term there) to the squirt hole thingie going into your coffee ground
group, ... runs through the entire resevoir of water which cools it down
greatly.... some pots as low as mid 150's to low 160's...... not the
best temp to brew at.  If you goto any home store, ie lowes, home depot
ace whatever... get some plastic tubing.. the flexible clear stuff
works.  and you can probably take the arm / angle thing off the top of
the coffee pot w/o busting it, and that leaves the tube that carries the
water up exposed.   Take this slightly larger flex tubing you bought
(cut to size) and put a blob of silicone sealant on the bottom of it,
and shove it over the top of the existing tube, and all the way to the
bottom of the pot and glue it firmly in place... you want to make sure
it's sealed tight on the bottom, you don't want the water to run up
it..... what this does is basically give an air gap between the water
tube from the boiler, and the water outside it... the air won't conduct
heat nearly as fast as water will so the overall temp of the water
hitting your grounds is much higher now....after all it was just
boiling, the steam is what pushes it out......
oh, yah... put the thing back together, let it dry so the glue is
cured.... generally 24 hours... and give it a shot...
Or... again if you tinker,  the heating element in a pot, they all
pretty much are the same thing, the wattage may vary slightly but you
seen one you pretty much seen them all.... they cost a few bucks,
replace it...either get one new from an appliance shop or goto a thrift
shop get a cheap ass pot, take the heater out of that one and put it in
yours......
or just get the technivorn and know it's a good pot at the right temp,
though quite expensive....
several choices to choose from depending on how adventurous you feel.
Aaron....
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2) From: MSMB
Thanks to you and to Eddie Dove for the information.  I might try putting
some kind o seal instead of the silicon.  Will let you know how it turns
out.  Really is a pretty easy modification.

3) From: Bill
A friend who is not at all a coffee dork recently got a cuisinart for
mothers' day.  I'm gonna look at her machine and see if this mod could
affect it... if so, may see if she would like it...
make sure that you report back to us and tell us how it goes.
bill in wyo
On Sat, May 17, 2008 at 10:10 PM, MSMB  wrote:
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4) From: MSMB
Well, I tried the modification and it was easy enough.  However, instead of
insulating the plastic water tube of my Mellita Quick Brew, I replaced it
with a copper tube.  I though this would be healthier and would insulate the
heat in its own right.  That seemed to work pretty well though I though the
water could still be hotter.  So I then tried removing the copper tube and
insulting that with clear plastic.  I first tried the plastic in boiling
water just to be sure that it would not melt and it seemed to be OK.  The
plastic hugs the water tube close enough so that no silicon is necessary to
seal it.  And then I tried it once again with the insulation and... my
coffee maker stopped working!  It stopped heating water altogether; seems
like the heating element died on it.  I did get some wires caught as I was
snapping the plastic all together, but everything seems to be fine; no
tears, no loose connections.  Perhaps it has to do with the timer that is
not working, though it was not working either when I did get it to heat up.
Probably it was on its last leg, working sporadically, and that is why it
was in Habitat in the first place.  Oh well; I will try again when another
one comes my way.

5) From: Peter Walsh
I would think that some silicone tubing would be a great insulator. If  
it fits snugly, you wouldn't need any sealant.
-Peter
On May 18, 2008, at 8:57 PM, MSMB wrote:
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6) From: Dave
Copper is an EXCELLENT conductor of heat. replacing the plastic tube
with copper would make the cooling problem worse. A plastic tube that
fit tightly around the copper would get you exactly back to where you
started. You need an air space between the inner and outer tubes to
have effective thermal insulation, think of dual pane windows. Hence
the need for silicon sealan. at the end keeps water out of the
airspace, and spaces the tube ends apart.
-- 
Dave
Some days...
It's just not worth chewing through the leather straps
On Sun, May 18, 2008 at 8:57 PM, MSMB  wrote:
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7) From: MSMB
Oh; I will try with the next one. But don't you have any health concerns
about the silicon, even just a little dab, affecting the quality of your
drinking water?

8) From: Dave
On Mon, May 19, 2008 at 7:32 AM, MSMB  wrote:
<Snip>
Not once it's cured.
-- 
Dave
Some days...
It's just not worth chewing through the leather straps
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9) From: MSMB
I am sure it is, but I am concerned about the chemicals in the silicon even
if we are just talking about a drop.  The taste is not what I am concerned
about jut the purity of the waster.


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