HomeRoast Digest


Topic: iRoast vent (9 msgs / 248 lines)
1) From: Eugene Johnson
I am finding the iRoast to be too smokey.
What experience has anyone had using the top 4 inch vent accessory for 
the iRoast2?
I am considering cutting a 1/4 inch panel to fit an open window, cutting 
a 4 inch hole in it, and attaching a "can". I envision using a piece of 
flexible 4 inch dryer tubing to attach the "can" on the plywood to the 
iRoast2 accessory.
Does this sound feasible?
At what height would you place the "can" relative to the iRoast vent 
appliance?
Would you leave the chaf collector in the pot or remove it and perhaps 
replace it by a screen over the end of the "can"?
Ideas/comments?
Eugene
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2) From: Larry Williams
I vent to a Jennair stove top range with a downdraft fan.  I know this 
doesn't answer all your questions, but is can say that you should not 
remove the chaff collector.  I use a 4" aluminum dryer vent flex pipe.  
I have a window that I plan to vent through  because the Jennair fan 
unit is getting very dirty from the dust from the IR2.  I see no 
problems with venting to a window. 
Larry Williams
Eugene Johnson wrote:
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3) From: Joseph Robertson
Eugene,
I just finished two roasts with my IRoast2. I am lucky in that I have crank
out windows where I roast in the kitchen. It was very easy to use the vent
adapter and use flex metal dryer vent tube. It goes right out the window
about 12 inches above the top of the Iroast. I crank the window onto the
hose to hold it in place. It all depends on the type of window you have. If
I had a standard single hung I would make a board with a hole like you
describe to put the hose through.
As to the lid, here is what i found works very well. Some may not want to
modify there roaster like this but it breathes so well this way. I carefully
removed the metal frame that holds the screens in the lid and removed the
screens and put the metal frame back in. I do roast with the chaff collector
although if all the chaff blows into my back yard, I guess that would not be
bad. There may be a question of too much air flow. I think I will try it and
see how it works wide open to the vent.
I have been using this for going on two years now with no problems.
Have fun Eugene.
JoeR
On Mon, May 26, 2008 at 12:44 PM, Eugene Johnson 
wrote:
<Snip>
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4) From: Seth Grandeau
I used the vent with a dryer hose and had good results.  I did not create a
board with hole cut through it, though I know another list member did, and
they added a small fan to help "power" the smoke out of the vent.  This list
member had terrific results.
The problems I had were the following:
   - Window only opened at bottom, putting it below the top of the roaster.
   Some smoke will still "back" into your house.  I had to move to another
   location, where I could put the roaster below the window.
   - I would shove the flexible hose out the window, where it would bend
   down (below the level of the roaster).  See problem above.  I solved this
   buy buying a $5 vent attachment.  It is a straight piece of rigid metal tube
   that the vent house attaches to.  At the end of the tube is a flapper that
   is pushed open by air pressure.  This kept my exhaust level with the window
   ledge, so I did not have a "kink" in the hose and no smoke backed into my
   house.  Things worked very well after this.
   - The hose creates more resistance, causing some problems with larger
   batches or denser beans (peaberries) or very chaffy beans (IMV was very hard
   to roast and I had to cut my batch down to 120 gr).  You may need to give it
   a shake if the beans stop moving.
   - The seal at the top of the iroast is not perfect, so there will still
   be some smell/smoke.  The amount is small and it actually made it easier to
   track the roasts progress.
One benefit of the exhaust hose is that it muffles the roar and makes the
cracks a little easier to hear.
Personally, I found the iroast to work better when you can roast outside.
At first crack, I would loosen the chaff collector, expelling some chaff and
slowing the roast down a bit.  Also, when you hit cool down, loosen the
chaff collector (or even take it off) and you will cool your roast even
faster.
Happy roasting!
On 5/27/08, Joseph Robertson  wrote:
<Snip>
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5) From: Joseph Robertson
Nice tips Seth,
Now that you mention the resistence the flex hose adds, I'm thinking of
creating a exhaust pipe from smooth Aluminum duct pipe tape the joints
togather. I realize why I don't get much smoke. Here in the Columbia River
Gorge it's commonly breasey so it helps pull out the exhaust.
JoeR
On Tue, May 27, 2008 at 1:21 PM, Seth Grandeau  wrote:
<Snip>
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6) From: Joseph Robertson
Nice tips Seth,
Now that you mention the resistance the flex hose adds, I'm thinking of
creating a exhaust pipe from smooth Aluminum duct pipe tape the joints
together. I realize why I don't get much smoke. Here in the Columbia River
Gorge it's commonly breezy so it helps pull out the exhaust.
JoeR
On Tue, May 27, 2008 at 1:21 PM, Seth Grandeau  wrote:
<Snip>
-- 
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7) From: Allon Stern
On May 27, 2008, at 4:21 PM, Seth Grandeau wrote:
<Snip>
That would probably be me.http://www.radioactive.org/pix/roaster/<Snip>
<Snip>
In my installation, the vent is below the roaster, but the fan makes  
all the difference.
I do have occasional smoke seep through the opening between the  
sashes - I stuff some batting in between the sashes when I 'm  
roasting dark.
<Snip>
One footnote to my original observations: I can use the speed of the  
fan to modulate the heat - if I want a fast start, I can run with the  
fan off entirely, then ramp it up to about 6V to vent smells/smoke,  
but not significantly provide extra airflow. Once I hit a part of the  
profile I want to slow down, I can ramp up the fan speed to increase  
airflow. When I hit cool, I make sure I have the fan all the way up  
(24V).
The seal between the roaster and the vent hose should be pretty solid  
for maximal effect.
Another change I'm considering is adding a separate chaff collector,  
to allow better airflow; one problem with the iRoast design is that  
the chaff collector blocks airflow, speeding the roast for chaffy  
coffees; I've found that I can control the roasting of decaf or light  
chaff coffees much better. I'm considering adding a separate vessel  
to collect chaff, maybe a largish, but sealed chamber with the  
exhaust sucking off the top and the vent entering the side, or maybe  
also the top. Then the low pressure in the chamber will let the chaff  
drop while the air flows.
-
allon
-
allon
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8) From: Seth Grandeau
Yes, it was Allon, but I didn't want to "call you out". :)
Regarding your external chaff collector, here's a little something I learned
the hard way, during my outdoor roasting experiments.  The chaff collector
has three pieces, the base (which attaches to the iroast chamber), the chaff
filter mesh (which sits over the opening in the chaff collector base and
redirects the airflow out and down) and the chaff collector lid (which locks
the assembly together and has a tight mesh screen, to make sure no chaff
escapes).  If you loosen the chaff collector lid, some chaff flies out and
airflow increases.  If you remove the chaff collector lid, more chaff flies
out and airflow increases even more.  You'll also notice the chaff filter
mesh "floats" on the column of air coming out of the roaster.  If you remove
the chaff filter mesh, all the chaff comes out, but air flow is so high that
coffee beans will fly out, as well. :)  Be careful your roast doesn't end up
in your exhaust tube!
On 5/27/08, Allon Stern  wrote:
<Snip>
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9) From: Allon Stern
On May 27, 2008, at 5:52 PM, Seth Grandeau wrote:
<Snip>
Warning taken.
Well, we'll see. It's a "someday" idea. I still want to build that  
pid controller, but time has been so tight.
At least I have most of the parts I need....
-
allon
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