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Topic: more issues with the Carezza? (8 msgs / 200 lines)
1) From: Ken B
Hmmm, I went to flush the Carezza today (run a full tank of water 
through it just to clean out any sitting deposits, etc.) and I got 
little flecks that looked like undissolved salt in every flush.  I put 
well over a gallon of water through it, and still got 4-10 of these 
things on the bottom of the jar I flush into, each time.  So, I got out 
the Durgol and ran it through.  Flushed again with 5 full tanks of 
water, and STILL got these things.  I do not remember seeing them 
before, but this is the first time I have looked at the water in 
sunlight with a dark background under the jar.  They are very hard to 
see in normal kitchen light, and range in size from very small to what 
looks to be the size of the steam wand opening.  The machine was cleaned 
with Durgol 4 weeks ago and as I said, I did not notice this.  Is this 
scale, and if so, why does the Durgol not get rid of it?  Flaking, 
perhaps of the steam wand? (it looks more like undissolved salt or sugar 
crystals than aluminum flakes though) Something else?  I really am 
beginning to think this thing is not worth the time and effort!  I would 
hate to think what you would have to do to keep a good machine working 
properly!
Any help wuld be appreciated.
best Regards,
Ken B
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2) From: Mike Koenig
Ken,
Do you know the hardness of your tap water?  If you have hard water,
the calcium and magnesium salts can precipitate with the elevated
temperature of the machine.
Usually this wouldn't show up as crystals right away though  (they
would stick to the inside of your boiler instead).
Does the Carezza have an aluminum boiler??  If so, do you know that
Durgol is safe for it?
--mike
On Sat, Jul 19, 2008 at 6:21 PM, Ken B  wrote:
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3) From: Ken B
Hi Mike,
I have no idea of whether the water here is hard or not.  I've never 
thought to look.  Hmmm, nothing immediately findable on Google...but I 
use nothing but filtered water in the Carezza.  Would that still be the 
case?
I admit that I did not clean the machine for the first year and a half I 
had it, because I used only filtered water. ;-)  The list set me 
straight that I should still clean it from time to time, so in the last 
year or so, it gets cleaned every 2-3 months.
According to Google, the boiler is aluminum with external heating 
elements.  Also according to Google, Durgol is safe to use in it.  I 
also do not recall any warnings on the Durgol instructions re: use with 
aluminum boilers.
Best Regards,
Ken B
Mike Koenig wrote:
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4) From: John Grubbs
Ken,
I have no experience with espresso machines, but I will second what Mike
suggested. When I lived in an area with very hard water, I would get a lot
of precipitate (looked like several cupfuls of rock salt) when I drained my
water heater about once a year.
John
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5) From: raymanowen
"...what you would have to do to keep a good machine working properly!"
They tell me I should Read in the directions somewhere, but nothing said
what to do about hot brewing water on a blank shot looking like I brewed a
shot with 5mg of coffee. Nothing was in the filter, but grounds were hiding
somewhere. Canal water is NTG for brewing.
I have an idea about how to brew coffee, but a seasoned machine and mop
bucket water are not on the list. Go Joe worked like a charm, just following
the directions for it. I could suggest some additional lines of instructions
for back flushing the Capresso, but I know it's impossible. The fact that it
worked is just one of those things.
I doubt a filter will remove all the metallic ions that an RO softener will.
I know distilled water carries no ions whatsoever. It leaves no deposits
when boiled- that's why it was specified in Chem Lab.
Cheers, Mabuhay, iechyd da -RayO, aka Opa!
Got Grinder?
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6) From: Mike Koenig
Ken,
You might want to check on your water.  You should be able to contact
your town and get a water report.  If your hardness is higher than
~100 ppm or so, you are going to get some precipitation when the water
his heated.  This could be the cause of the rocks you are seeing.
You can get hardness test kits pretty cheaply at aquarium stores.
Usually they will give you a reading in degrees of hardness ( a common
measurement used by aquarium people, that makes analytical chemists
twitch).  Let me know if you need help understanding the numbers you
get.
Sometimes you can get your water tested at Sears for free (since they
want to sell you a water softener).  Here you will get a reading in
grains/gallon.
(I put these units in the same category as furlongs per fortnight).
--mike
On Sat, Jul 19, 2008 at 7:48 PM, Ken B  wrote:
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7) From: Ken B
Mike,
I went online and looked at the water report for my town, but it looked 
to me like all it said was the bad things they look for.  Nothing about 
any of the things I would think to look for: pH, minerals, etc. They 
only list things like lead, copper, nitrate, barium and selenium, 
various bacteria along with beta particles and a bunch of water cleaning 
by-products.  I will stop by the city offices and ask the question the 
next time I am down that way.  You would think that they would at least 
give the pH and ppm of dissolved minerals, but if they do, I can't find 
it online.  If they cannot give me an answer, I will get the kits you 
talk about and test the water from the tap, and after it is filtered.
Thanks for the information.  I will track it down over time, but I think 
you are probably right.  It may just be hard water...though what was 
called hard water when I was a kid is not evident here.  Soap and 
shampoo bubbles easily.  It may be the type of minerals here.  Oh 
well...again, thanks for the info.
Best Regards,
Ken B
Mike Koenig wrote:
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8) From: Seth Grandeau
Check your local yellow pages for a water treatment.  There should be
companies like Culligan that sell water softners (which treat hard water) as
well as other drinking water systems.  Most of these companies will test
your water for free (so they have to opportunity to try to sell you.  If
you're in upstate NY, I can point you toward a reputable company (family
connection).
On Sun, Jul 20, 2008 at 11:48 AM, Ken B  wrote:
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