HomeRoast Digest


Topic: Salvatore update (7 msgs / 208 lines)
1) From: Kris Bhatti
I'm so close to being finished with my Salvatore rebuild, I can almost taste the espresso.  Each step along the way has revealed the next issue to resolve.  The final (I hope!) piece of the puzzle is a piece of Viton (high temp rubber seal) that goes between a flange coming off the side of the boiler and a brass plate that the group attaches to.  After I had all the other things taken care of, I put espresso in the basket for the first time on Saturday.  There was a bit of coffee out the spout, but lots of spraying and dripping on the back side of the group.  Salvatore (how often is the name of the machine and the guy you talk to, who designed and built it, the same name?!) said he'd send me a piece of Viton, so hopefully it will arrive today.  I'm steaming milk on the machine already and that works great.  I see some latte art in my future.
I've already made one modification and am thinking of others.  The pourover watertank seemed like it would be a hassle to clean, tough to see into and I'd need a funnel to manage getting water into the 2" diameter top opening and I'd probably overfill it.  I thought about plumbing it in (it comes set up for that) but then I'd have to consider the whole filtering situation - still could consider that in the future though.  Our water is pretty nice here, but I still run everything through a Brita for coffee.  Since I got a new piece of hose that is longer than necessary, I decided to just run it directly into a Brita pitcher.  I think that will work nicely - I can see the water level easily (important since I've disconnected the water level sensor from the old tank) and refill with the pull out sprayer from the sink.  I drilled a hole in the pitcher just below the top reservoir, ran the hose in there and it seems to work fine.  
Other possible modifications:  insulate the boiler, add a drain hose to the drip tray, add pressure gauges
You all have ruined my sense of what is normal!  Back in my unenlightened times, I foolishly thought appliances were fine out of the box!  I feel so empowered now, knowing exactly what is going on under the hood of this machine.  I've had my hands on every single component and for the most part know how they work (need to research the pressure stat as I haven't made any changes to that and I want to understand how it functions).
Looks like I'm going to need to order more beans very soon because I'll be playing with this machine as much as possible.
Kris
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2) From: Mike Koenig
Kris,
If you want to direct plumb, and have decent, (not too hard) tap
water, just get a standard 10 inch filter housing, with a carbon
filter, plumb it into your tap water line and you should be set to go.
(Stay away from any fancy, twist-lock water filters, since you are
stuck with a certain vendor, and when they stop making that type, you
need to buy a whole new unit).  Compared to the machine rebuild,
hooking up one of these should be a snap.
I have REALLY hard water, and the dreaded water softener.  I just
finished putting in a Reverse Osmosis system, followed by a calcite
cartridge to add some calcium back into the water.  Makes good
drinking water (just like that fancy Dasani stuff), and I'm all set
for when I buy a plumbed in machine.
--mike
On Tue, Oct 7, 2008 at 1:31 PM, Kris Bhatti  wrote:
<Snip>
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3) From: Kris Bhatti
Thanks Mike - I'm thinking that will be a nice project for when my dad comes here at Christmas.  He's a plumber and electrician and always likes a project when he visits.  
Look at me, making all these plans and I haven't even pulled the first shots from my machine yet! :)
Kris
----- Original Message ----
From: Mike Koenig 
To: homeroast
Sent: Tuesday, October 7, 2008 11:14:59 AM
Subject: Re: [Homeroast] Salvatore update
Kris,
If you want to direct plumb, and have decent, (not too hard) tap
water, just get a standard 10 inch filter housing, with a carbon
filter, plumb it into your tap water line and you should be set to go.
(Stay away from any fancy, twist-lock water filters, since you are
stuck with a certain vendor, and when they stop making that type, you
need to buy a whole new unit).  Compared to the machine rebuild,
hooking up one of these should be a snap.
I have REALLY hard water, and the dreaded water softener.  I just
finished putting in a Reverse Osmosis system, followed by a calcite
cartridge to add some calcium back into the water.  Makes good
drinking water (just like that fancy Dasani stuff), and I'm all set
for when I buy a plumbed in machine.
--mike
On Tue, Oct 7, 2008 at 1:31 PM, Kris Bhatti  wrote:
<Snip>
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4) From: Robert Flanery
Unn, forgive me, but if memory serves Dasani is from the Atlanta Municipal
water supply. Does go down pretty well.
Love to follow along with your project.  It gives me inspiration to watch
for an old machine in need of love and nothing more.  I have a passion for
rebuilding things.  Just ask the wife.
On second thought don't, that would clue her in to another thing on the work
bench.  She knew things would be like this before she married me...
On Tue, Oct 7, 2008 at 2:21 PM, Kris Bhatti  wrote:
<Snip>
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5) From: miKe mcKoffee
Pstat controls the boiler pressure. Pressure drops below low deadband point
contact closes turning on heater. Pressure comes up to high deadband point
contact opens heater turns off. Most pstats 0.1bar deadband or so. (Plus
over shoot)Tighter can be found if you work at it like the 0.05bar I put in
my Bric'. Higher boiler pressure equals hotter boiler equals faster recovery
time and usually also means more flushing needed to cool HX for shot.
Insulating boiler reduced heater on time while idle ~50% on my Bric' IIRC.
Takes longer for cups on top to warm up.
Direct plumb wise, JUST DO IT! You won't regret it. (It was the best mod' I
ever did to Silvia way back when.) Wouldn't even consider a machine that
didn't have direct plumb capabilities except for travel.
Pressure gauge wise, nice to have but not necessary for where it counts, the
cup. 
Mike McGinness
mcKona Koffee Roastery & Paradise Kafe
503-449-7045http://www.mcKonaKoffee.comHomeroast mailing list
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6) From: Kris Bhatti
Thanks Mike, that is very helpful information.  How will I know if I need to adjust the pstat?  I saw the screw to adjust it, but haven't touched it.  It's a Sirai.  Faster recovery time is not all that important for me - for the most part it's just 2 of us, with company once in a while.  I don't move as fast as a seasoned pro.  My friends are always so impressed to get good coffee to start with, so speed is not an issue and I don't have a tip jar ....yet
Boiler insulation looks like the next relatively cheap and easy project.  I'm also investigating sand blasting and powder coating for the front control panel - the paint is peeling at the edges and bubbled on the front.  I'd love to have Salvatore (or even a local metal shop) make me a nice stainless panel, but I'm guessing that would run in to more expense than I want.  
I'll definitely put direct plumb on the Christmas project list for my dad!
I didn't get the rubber seal material in the mail today and I couldn't wait any longer, so I picked up some material at Ace Hardware and cut my own.  I put it all together and - yes!  It works!  No leaks!  Now the real fun begins, though I have to say every step has been it's own kind of fun.  Some photos here: http://picasaweb.google.com/krisbhatti/SalvatoreProject#By the way Mike, I stopped in your shop last January when I was driving my daughter back to Seattle.  Great shop and fantastic coffee!  I hope to make that trip again next January and will certainly stop at your place again.
Thanks,
Kris
----- Original Message ----
From: miKe mcKoffee 
To: homeroast
Sent: Tuesday, October 7, 2008 5:10:20 PM
Subject: Re: [Homeroast] Salvatore update
Pstat controls the boiler pressure. Pressure drops below low deadband point
contact closes turning on heater. Pressure comes up to high deadband point
contact opens heater turns off. Most pstats 0.1bar deadband or so. (Plus
over shoot)Tighter can be found if you work at it like the 0.05bar I put in
my Bric'. Higher boiler pressure equals hotter boiler equals faster recovery
time and usually also means more flushing needed to cool HX for shot.
Insulating boiler reduced heater on time while idle ~50% on my Bric' IIRC.
Takes longer for cups on top to warm up.
Direct plumb wise, JUST DO IT! You won't regret it. (It was the best mod' I
ever did to Silvia way back when.) Wouldn't even consider a machine that
didn't have direct plumb capabilities except for travel.
Pressure gauge wise, nice to have but not necessary for where it counts, the
cup. 
Mike McGinness
mcKona Koffee Roastery & Paradise Kafe
503-449-7045http://www.mcKonaKoffee.comHomeroast mailing list
Homeroasthttp://www.sweetmariascoffee.com/gallery/main.php?g2_itemIdx20Homeroast mailing list">http://lists.sweetmariascoffee.com/listinfo.cgi/homeroast-sweetmariascoffee.comHomeroast community pictures -upload yours!) :http://www.sweetmariascoffee.com/gallery/main.php?g2_itemIdx20Homeroast mailing list
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7) From: Brian Kamnetz
Kris,
Fascinating photos. Thanks for posting them. And thanks for taking us
on the trip with this entire project. I am not handy, but things such
as your project fascinate me anyway. Or perhaps the fascination is
greater along with the increased mystery. Anyway, thanks.
Brian
On Wed, Oct 8, 2008 at 1:04 AM, Kris Bhatti  wrote:
<Snip>
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