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Topic: Behmor Tricks (22 msgs / 417 lines)
1) From: Seth Grandeau
I was getting ready for some roasting this morning and I found a 1 lb bag of
Kenya AA Giakanja Coop Coffee Mill.  I had bought 1 lb to try, forgot about
it, and now there is no more available.  So, rather than doing my normal 1/2
and keeping copious notes, I decided to roast the whole pound at once.  I
wanted to use P1, but I was worried about being able to get all the way
through 1st crack (I've had bad experiences trying to do a full lb before).
 I was also concerned about it running into 2nd crack too quickly.  So, I
set it to P3, but cut the timer (before hitting start) down to only 10
minutes (the recommended time for 1 lb, P3 is 21:30).  Then, after hitting
start, I pressed the + button to max out at 23:30.  I hit the first outliers
of 1st crack with 4:20 left on the timer and hit cool at 1:56 on the clock.
It looks like a very nice, consistent C+ and I heard no 2nd crack at all.
The proof will be in the cup later this week, but I think I may have found
how to be successful with my setup (machine, voltage, ambient temps, etc)
with 1 lb roasts.
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2) From: Ira
At 12:21 PM 1/10/2009, you wrote:
<Snip>
There was a very interesting thread on HB about the Behmor and it 
contains among other things the piece of information that the fan and 
afterburner turn on at exactly 7.5 minutes into the roast and stay on 
for the duration. Once I heard that, I wondered what would happen if 
I could make that happen later in the roast as I roast outside and if 
it smokes a bit more, so what. So I started running P1 for 2 minutes, 
pressing Stop, quickly putting in what I really wanted and pressing 
Start again. If nothing else, it adds two minutes to the roast time 
which is useful if you were running out of time. I've been roasting 
12 oz of Espresso Monkey 2 minutes on P1, then change to 1lb P2 B 
which is 20 minutes at P2 and I've hit first crack within 10 seconds 
of the power reduction every time and P1-P2 stretches out to 2.5 
minutes or so making it really easy to know when to end the roast.
It's not following the rules and conceptually there might be some 
side effect I'm not aware of, but it has seemed to improve the 
quality of my roasts. If you have a Kill-A-Watt you can clearly see 
that the power consumption goes up by 400 watts at exactly 7.5 
minutes into the roast. What you can't see is the cold air it brings 
in to replace the smoky air it removes and cleans.
If you choose to try this, pay extra close attention to your roasts 
as you're operating outside the recommended area of operation.
Ira
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3) From: Alchemist John
In this cold weather, I do this basically all the time.  I roast in 
my shop, and also store my beans there.  Both outside the design 
parameters of the Behmor.  I don't see it as 'cheating' so much, and 
getting the system and beans up to design spec temperatures before 
starting the profile I want.  Why waste heat and time just warming up 
the system.
Although I will also say I am surprised you get a 2 minute warm up to 
work.  I could never get (in warm weather) anything over 80-90 
seconds to work.  More than that and the system was over it's maximum 
allowable start temperature of 130 C (too keep you from not allowing 
the system to cool between roasts).
At 12:41 PM 1/10/2009, you wrote:
<Snip>
John Nanci
AlChemist at large
Zen Roasting , Hand Grinding, Blending & Espresso pulling by Gestalthttp://www.chocolatealchemy.com/Homeroast mailing list
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4) From: Ira
At 02:51 PM 1/10/2009, you wrote:
<Snip>
Well, I have one of the ones that ran cold and my voltage is only 114 
so maybe that's why. I've gone as long as 2.5 minutes with no problem.
I'm surprised you don't just toss a resistor and a switch in so you 
can always make it start, then you can pre-heat as long as you want.
Ira
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5) From: Alchemist John
These are on ones I repair as refurbished units.  So, I don't just 
have a single I roast with.
My daily roaster is still my variac interface, human controller Zen 
II roaster I built.
At 03:09 PM 1/10/2009, you wrote:
<Snip>
John Nanci
AlChemist at large
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6) From: Paul Whitener Jr.
As far as Behmor tricks go, I've been thinking of ways to get some  
more time in-between first and second crack, as my last few batches  
have seen the two running into each other (using both P2 and P4  
profiles). I've been wondering what would happen if I run P1 and open  
the door once first crack is winding down to fake the drop in heat  
that P2 has (I'm hopeful that I will eventually be good enough with  
the machine to time the heat drop in P2 perfectly, but thus far I'm  
missing my mark). I'm roasting outdoors (so smoke and escaping chaff  
aren't an issue) in Austin, where even a "cold" winter day will be in  
the 60s. I have an oven thermometer that I could use to get an  
estimate of the heat in the chamber to help gauge when to close the  
door and allow the heat to reassert itself.
Has anyone tried anything like this?
Thanks..... Paul
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7) From: Seth Grandeau
I've been toying with trying P5, setting the time at start to be short, them
bumping it back to max time afte the roast starts.  This will get me up to
the 95% level quickly, but won't go to 100% power.  I like 95% a lot.  It
gives me a noticible gap between 1st and 2nd and the heat cycles on and off
more quickly, which i would think is more stable.  At 100%, it stays on for
20-30 seconds then cycles off for 20-30 seconds.
So far I've only used P5 for Hawaiians, due to the slow ramp, but if I cut
down the time before hitting start, that should still give me the faster
ramp I want with SHBs.
On 1/11/09, Paul Whitener Jr.  wrote:
<Snip>
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8) From: james McDougal
Seth, I don't understand how you get 95%, the way I read the Behmor manual
and updates, all roast profiles end up at 100%. P5 appears to switch from
80% to 100% at about 65% of the time set. Am I reading it wrong?
I haven't tried it, but how far can you cut the time down before hitting
start?
Mac
On Mon, Jan 12, 2009 at 1:00 PM, Seth Grandeau  wrote:
<Snip>
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9) From: james McDougal
Paul,
I've also struggled with the drop in power with P2. I'd like to have it drop
right at 1C but most of the time 1C is a couple of minutes past where it
drops when the time is set at max. It would have been nice to have the P2
drop at 80-85% of the time and then we would have more flexibility in moving
the drop around. I can't really open the door because I roast inside.
Mac
On Sun, Jan 11, 2009 at 3:55 PM, Paul Whitener Jr. wrote:
<Snip>
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10) From: Seth Grandeau
Mac,
I just looked up the manual on-line and it does look like the graph goes to
100%.  I could have sworn I had read somewhere that P5 maxed out at 95%.  I
do know, from experience, that on P5, in the last segment, the power cycles
on and off quicker than on the other profiles.  Anyway, I will give this a
try during my next roast where my target is FC+ or higher.
-Seth
On 1/12/09, james McDougal  wrote:
<Snip>
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11) From: Ira
At 10:30 AM 1/12/2009, you wrote:
<Snip>
Well, I'm absolutely certain it said 95% at one time, though I can't 
off hand say where. BehmorThing shows 95% and I know I looked it up 
before I put that in there. I will have to write Joe and get an 
answer as I'd hate for the program to mislead people. The high 
resolution charts are gone from the web site and I can't find 
anything that shows it either way other than the 
"BehmorProfiles.xlsm" Excel spreadsheet which has embedded in it the 
original high resolution profile maps from Behmor.com which clearly 
show P5 as 70% for the first 1/3, 80% for the next third and 95% for 
the last third.
Ira
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12) From: Seth Grandeau
BTW, to Mac's question about how far you can cut it down, I've gone down to
10 minutes on a 1 lb batch size.  I did not hit any limit, that was just my
target.  I would not be surprised if you can take it down further before
hitting start.
On 1/12/09, Ira  wrote:
<Snip>
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13) From: Ira
At 10:36 AM 1/12/2009, you wrote:
<Snip>
Try this.
P1  1lb Start wait for 16:00 on the clock and then quickly press Stop 
1Lb P1 Start. Note the beginning of first crack.
Next time with the same weight of the same beans, do the same 1lb 
P1  Start and wait for16:00 then press 1Lb P2 and adjust so the temp 
drop is exactly where it happened before. In my case for 12 ounces of 
beans it's usually 1Lb P2 B which is 20 minutes and drops heat just 
around 12 minutes into the roast, 8:00 left on the Behmor clock.
If you don't have BehmorThing, I'd recommend it, otherwise, a cheat 
sheet and a calculator are absolutely necessary.
Ira
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14) From: Bob Hazen
Seth,
According tohttp://www.behmor.com/roasterheat_specifications.htmlP5 does 
go to 95%.  Click on the images and you'll get additional information.
Bob
<Snip>
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15) From: MikeG
Joe Behm's machine will not be acceptable until it goes to 11
On Mon, Jan 12, 2009 at 9:35 PM, Bob Hazen  wrote:
<Snip>
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16) From: james McDougal
Thanks, Bob! That clears it up. Just not very good graphs.
Mac
On Mon, Jan 12, 2009 at 11:35 PM, Bob Hazen  wrote:
<Snip>
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17) From: james McDougal
Thanks, Ira! That should do it. I didn't realize that you could restart the
Behmor when it is hot. I'll try it.
Mac
On Mon, Jan 12, 2009 at 4:25 PM, Ira  wrote:
<Snip>
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18) From: Alchemist John
Mac, up to an internal temperature of about 250 F.
At 04:04 AM 1/13/2009, you wrote:
<Snip>
John Nanci
AlChemist at large
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19) From: Ira
At 04:04 AM 1/13/2009, you wrote:
<Snip>
You can't, but if it's just a little warm it will re-start. I've been 
using 2 minutes as has someone else. He said at 3:20 it would not 
re-start so be warned. Ii is different machine to machine and depends 
on the beans and the weather.
Ira
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20) From: james McDougal
Oh, I see the problem. Sorry to be so dense! I thought you ment run it for
On Tue, Jan 13, 2009 at 12:12 PM, Ira  wrote:
<Snip>
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21) From: james McDougal
Oh, I see the problem. Sorry to be so dense! I thought you ment run it for
16 minutes and restart. Duh! Now the instructions make more sense. I
actually start a timer when I start the Behmor and reference that instead of
the Behmor clock, because it bothers me that I don't have the total roast
time availble when I add and subtract time.
I sometimes use a 90 preheat (including the beans) when roasting a pound, so
I know it can be restarted at least at that time. But I believed that
it might be restarted hot, because I think I did it once. Within the first
couple of roasts, I got an overheat error near the end of a roast, hit stop,
pulled the plug, stuck the plug back in, hit 1/4 pound, start and cool and
it cooled. Perhaps only the cool works when it is hot.
Mac
On Tue, Jan 13, 2009 at 12:39 PM, james McDougal wrote:
<Snip>
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22) From: Seth Grandeau
On another thread, miKe mentioned that he uses a longer profile for his
lighter roasts.  This made me decide it was time to try another Behmor trick
I had been thinking about for a while.  I've really liked how profile P5
works for Hawaiian coffees.  Very clear 1st crack, without running straight
into 2nd crack.  I also like how at 95%, the heat cycles on and off more
rapidly than at 100% in the other profiles.  I think this would lead to a
more consistent roast temp. So I've decided to use it for some SHB beans
that I would normally do on P1.  But, since I'm not worried about the slow
ramp I cut the time way down before hitting start, then pumped it back up.
I roasted 1/2 lb of Ethiopian Harar Horse on the 1 lb setting, P5 with the
clock time before start set to 2:00 and then after start I bumped it up to
20:00.  The total roast took about 15 minutes (I don't have my notes in
front of me) and I hit a very nice C/C+.  1st crack came to an end and there
was no 2nd crack in sight.  I heard the last snap of 1st as cool down
started.  This same roast on P1 took 13 or 14 minutes, so this profile was
definitely slower.  I'm drinking it today (48 hours rest) and it's very
tasty.  I'm starting to get some fruit in the cup and there was great
blueberry aroma in the dry grounds.  I have another roast I did the same way
(Ethiopian Yirga Alem) that I will try tomorrow.  I think this will be my
new profile for dry processed coffees that I want to keep at C/C+!
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