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Topic: hot hot HOT i-Roast 2 ! (8 msgs / 269 lines)
1) From: Maxwell Heathcott
So...after extensive experimentation with a 1 year old i-Roast 2 (purchased=
 from a mailing list pal), adjusting times, temps, beans and everything in =
between (monitoring i-Roast temps and bean bed temps taken with a thermocou=
ple), I've found that for optimal results, I simply set my i-Roast to 320 f=
or 15 minutes, and then watch the beans roast. I hit 430 in 9 minutes flat,=
 with a curve that stabilizes after 5 minutes (at around 390), rising about=
 8-10 degrees F per minute after that (first crack tends to end in the neig=
hborhood of 420). At 430 according to the TC, I'm looking at a Full City+ r=
oast on the beans. This is regardless of bean type (though there are notice=
able differences in my curves depending upon chaff levels and exact make an=
d model of bean: so far trying Ethipoian, 2 x Brazilian, and a Sulawesi). =
Coffee is consistently good to great in the cup, so no complaints there. Ju=
st curious: does this seem normal to anyone here? I haven't seen anyone els=
e anywhere on the internet getting numbers like this, and of course: I can'=
t help wondering if I'd be getting even better results were I able to exten=
d the roast out longer. =
Thanks for your insights!
Maxwell H.San Antonio, TX
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2) From: Larry Williams
Very Interesting about your setting the IR2 to 320 for 15 min and variation
in the temps.  I have three IR2 bases and will try the same setting and
report back.  Sorry I do not have a TC.  It has long been touted that the
IR2 is inconsistent - I would tend to agree.
Larry Williams
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-- =
Larry Williams
Everyday Is a Saturday
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3) From: Jim Couch
not sure how you are doin this as the manual (and it may just be wrong) says
can only adjust time or temp with 3 stages set and when it is in the third
stage....
At least that is my understanding....and sounds like you have been modding
yours so it may be able to do things that a plan ole Ir-2 can't.
Jim
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-- =
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4) From: Jeff Kilpatrick
Max-
I've never attempted anything like what you suggested before, but I have a
whole bunch of DPs sitting around just waiting to be blended and played with
so I thought it would be fun.  I set my IR2 for 15 minutes at 320 with a TC
snaked in and got similar but somewhat slower results.  You can see
specifics athttp://spreadsheets.google.com/pub?key=rBSlICfda2wGiapPmOGVO=wQ.
 I never heard a first crack and the temperature is way lower than what I
usually see, but the color and smell tell a different story.  Curious.
 Also, while I didn't record the IR2's on-board measurements, it was at
about 350 every time I poked it.
-jeff
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5) From: Maxwell Heathcott
No mods. Just setting it at 320 for a single 15 minute stage, standing back=
 and watching (and recording!).
--mh
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6) From: Allon Stern
On May 7, 2009, at 3:48 PM, Larry Williams wrote:
<Snip>
I wouldn't say that the IR2 is inconsistent - you just need to take  
all the variables into account.
For example, different coffees will roast differently; differing  
amounts of chaff will lead two coffees to roast wildly differently in  
the IR2 - the chaff produced by the roast ends up in a feedback loop  
increasing the heat retention. You can use this to your advantage;  
ignoring the effect will lead to your peril.
Well, at least the peril of your beans.
My fan arrangement allows me to adjust the airflow and produce  
relatively consistent roasts with my IR2.
I'm curious, Doug Hoople, if you're out there, how did your attempt  
at reproducing my modifications work?
<Snip>
You can only adjust the 3rd stage, but you can do that even when you  
have five stages programmed.
I do this with my 4-stage program - I arranged my program so that  
stage 3 is where I get over the hump into 1st crack; if the roast is  
going too fast, I can cut the heat back faster by cutting stage 3  
short; if it isn't progressing fast enough I can lengthen stage 3.
-
allon
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7) From: Doug Hoople
I've noticed the same effect, namely that the temperature rises steadily
even at the lowest iR2 setting (320). This was the precise reason that I
returned to HG/DB, so that I could keep the temps below 350 for longer than
3 or 4 minutes. I was getting very bright roasts that stemmed from too steep
an initial ramp.
Allon, I did rig a setup that is very similar to yours, and it did help me
smooth things out somewhat, but I was never able to slow down the initial
rise to 350. I was, however, able to move my roasting indoors, which was
nice in the late winter.
Doug
On Fri, May 8, 2009 at 6:30 AM, Allon Stern  wrote:
<Snip>
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8) From: Allon Stern
On May 9, 2009, at 5:18 PM, Doug Hoople wrote:
<Snip>
What I find best is to let it rise with the fan on the lowest setting  
until around 250 or so (a little before for a slow ramp)
Then you have two choices -
A) Fast ramp. Let it keep going on the low setting. You'll get  
through 1st crack much faster; you can slow things a little bit with  
added fan, but you may end up with a runaway train; good for going  
dark, though.
B) Slow ramp. Teeeeny bit by teeeeny bit, try to keep the temp rise  
as slow as you can. Don't apply lots of fan all at once! Just slowly  
creep the voltage up  so that over the course of a few minutes,  
you've gone the full range, trying to converge upon your fan getting  
to full speed, and the timer running out to bump you to the heat  
boost level, and the temperature being around 350 or so. 360  
sometimes works a bit better for beans that have a hard time making  
it over the hump to 1st crack.  As soon as the heat boost stage  
starts, kick the fan back to the lowst setting. Then slowly creep up  
again; You then want your heat boost to end with the bean mass  
reading around 405-6ish. You may not have the fan at the highest  
setting at this point.....
Then as the heat boost ends, again reset the fan to the lowest level,  
and slowly creep it up, trying to keep the roast progressing, but not  
too fast.
Early efforts to slow the roast are rewarded later in the roast, with  
a more drawn out roast from 405 to EOR, and lots more control.
-
allon
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