HomeRoast Digest


Topic: Problems with Master Appliance 751b - Update (11 msgs / 447 lines)
1) From: Brian Kamnetz
An update on my Master Appliance 751b:
The fan stopped working. I tried to take it apart and discovered what
Pecan Jim meant when he said it was difficult to replace the element
on the 751b! (The element is in the nozzle, with the nozzle insulated
with several sheets of mica that cannot be reused, according to Master
Appliance.) I called a couple repair shops in town, always asking for
referrals, and the answer was always that they did not work on Master
Appliance heat guns.
I was googling around trying to figure things  out when I stumbled on
the Master Appliance website. For $40 plus shipping to WI, I could
send my 751b to the factory, where they would repair it and send it
back. Ray, miKe, Mike (just plain), Rich, and probably many others on
this list could probably trouble-shoot the problem and fix it in short
order. For me, however (i.e., not very handy),  this is a fabulous
deal. I figured that for not much more than the price of parts and
shipping, people who new what they were doing would fix my heat gun.
It came back a week or so ago. It was in great shape. They even
replaced the stand, which I had removed because it was in the way. I
roasted with it this morning. It works like a champ!
I love this heat gun. I love the excess capacity to produce heat. I
roast a pound at a time with no difficulty. It takes a minute or two
longer (depending on the variety) than it takes to roast half a pound.
I have plenty of heat in reserve (I usually use it at the lowest heat
setting, with the vanes wide open).
Once again, when I posed a question to the list, I received
thoughtful, very useful info. Thanks to those who responded.
Brian
On Sun, Apr 12, 2009 at 8:41 PM, miKe mcKoffee  wrote:
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2) From: miKe mcKoffee
Just curious, did you happen to note the sn before and after? Good chance
came back with stand attached because it was a different unit that was
already refurbed waiting to go out, fairly common practice. Which of course
doesn't matter unless you had a sentimental attachment:-0 Regardless $40 in
good working order instead of broken versus ~$100 for a new one not a bad
deal!
Agree 100% it's always better to have power in reserve roasting than not
enough.
Slave to the Bean Kona Konnaisseur miKe mcKoffeehttp://www.mckoffee.com/Ultimately the quest for Koffee Nirvana is a solitary path. To know I must">http://www.NorwestCoffee.comURL to Rosto mods, FrankenFormer, some recipes etc:http://www.mckoffee.com/Ultimately the quest for Koffee Nirvana is a solitary path. To know I must
first not know. And in knowing know I know not. Each Personal enlightenment
found exploring the many divergent foot steps of Those who have gone before.
Pacific Northwest Gathering VIIhttp://themeyers.org/HomeRoast/">http://www.norwestcoffee.com/PNWGVII.htmSweet Maria's List - Searchable Archiveshttp://themeyers.org/HomeRoast/
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3) From: Brian Kamnetz
miKe,
Good question about the sn. I was wishing I would have recorded it. I
can't tell by looking whether it is the same one or not. Mine was used
only for roasting, so it was in really good shape, not beat up, not
scuffed up at all, and the one they sent back is in similarly good
condition. I don't believe it is repainted, because there does seem to
be minor wear on the paint surface But no, I am not at all sure it is
the same one.
Brian
On Mon, May 25, 2009 at 5:28 PM, miKe mcKoffee  wrote:
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4) From: raymanowen
"... mica that cannot be reused"
Pferdescheiße!
I have repaired at least a half dozen of these same  Master heat guns that
had been used as striking devices (Hammers!) by the staff at Op Images in
Denver. I always got the repair parts from W.W. Grainger. I never replaced
the heating element with the standard repair part.
The 1750 watt element is the same physical size as the lower-powered one
that came out, so WTFO? They always included the mica wrapper with the
replacement elements. I used them since they sent them along.
Grainger parts came from Chicago. UPS overnight got here almost as fast as I
could pick up brand new heat guns from Grainger's retail outlet
Just had cracked ceramic pieces. The first two I actually patched up with
A.P. Green Co. Greencast 97, some expensive castable refractory that was
good up to 2000° F. The flat dog bone X shapes kept the heater centered in
the mica in the metal nose. It worked fine for thermocouple and heater forms
on oil shale retorts at CSM Research Institute.
$100 for a bag of Greencast 97 to build my hobby heat treat/ nitriding
muffles about '81. Wurkt good and lasted years as a dry mix. I tend to keep
things but was convinced otherwise by my soon-to-be wife of 38 years, Karen
my Celtic Critic.
Hint: if the motor doesn't run, think "Brushes." It runs on full line
voltage, could be either AC or DC, just like the heater.
Cheers, Mabuhay, magandang Gabi -RayO, aka Opa!
On Mon, May 25, 2009 at 1:29 PM, Brian Kamnetz  wrote:
<Snip>
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-- =
Persist in old ways; expect new results - suborn Insanity...
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5) From: Brian Kamnetz
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6) From: Brian Kamnetz
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7) From: Rich
Those kinds of universal motors can do that for a variety of reasons. 
Recirculating heated air is not good for them.  Angle the gun output 
into the bowl so the hot air and chaff does not get sucked back into the 
gun and that should solve the possibility of a failure from cooking the 
motor.
Brian Kamnetz wrote:
<Snip>
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8) From: Brian Kamnetz
VGhhbmtzLCBSaWNoLiBJIG1heSBoYXZlIGluYWR2ZXJ0ZW50bHkgbW92ZWQgaW4gdGhhdCBkaXJl
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cD9nMl9pdGVtSWQ9NzgyMA==

9) From: raymanowen
Humbly, he posits that he's no slouch at actually resurrecting these Master
heat guns from a pile of scrap. The following statements belong in a Manure
Spreader- it would last all season if the pure BS wouldn't harm the crops:
"I asked the repair department why your heat gun stopped working.
There was a short caused by the armature. -
[This is Extra Virgin, double refined BS- the armature could not cause any
short.
The armature can only spin. It's caged by the steel pole laminations, and
centered between two bearings with a shim stack to position it exactly in
the magnetic field.]
"This can happen for a number of reasons. -
The best thing to do is make sure the air flow is not being pushed back into
the gun.
This can ruin the element. -
[First, the armature "caused a short," Now, the element is "overheated and
ruined"]
It's all Baloney from unemployed Used Car salesmen.
Make sure the the heat gun is not being held *to* close to the item you are
heating. {Failed TOEFL}
What was replaced on your 751B:
- Heating element
- Armature
- Nozzle Assembly
- Nozzel Shield                                            [Fail TOEFL -
Again]
- Field
That was the extent of the information I received from the repair personnel.
[ They kept the blower squirrel cage, frame, line cord and switch, otherwise
"the complete heat gun is new."]
If you have any further questions, please feel free to contact me."
Lies, Damned Lies and Complete BS- the longer they talk, the deeper it
gets...
The $40 refurbish is a loss leader for Master. The report is a crock. They
tear down the guns to be refurbished, pitch the broken parts and consolidate
the good pieces. The serial number tag was only on the exterior of the
blower motor housing.
No internal parts numbered to match the s/n- don't even remember serial
numbers on the motor assembly, which would get brushes, maybe bearings, and
a re-dressed commutator. $40 is an absolute bargain. The thing is bullet
proof unless someone uses it for a hammer!
BTW- I wanted a final double shot from the last of the Horse Green Stripe
roast on 12 days. A level filter basket of beans into the maw of the Mazzer,
Pht! Oops- left it set on 48 from my last Steinway a little earlier!
Wasted the last of my Green Stripe! Remember that you can't regrind coffee
finer in a burr grinder? That Myth is only true if you have one of the
undersized conical burr sets that has an auger shaped center burr. They are
designed to pull whole beans in to the burrs, and actually tend to crush the
beans together in the primary coarse section before they're shaved in the
finer second stage.
If the coffee is already ground, the coarse auger section will pull the
grounds in en masse and jam them into the fine secondary stage, enabling the
Myth- "Can't regrind in a burr grinder." The grounds just whistled through
the closer fine teeth of the second stage, reset to 18.5. Hardly touched the
coarse primary teeth. The resulting shot was gorgeous crema that settled
down to delicious Nectar. Bye bye Green Stripe Horse...
This morning's Monkey blend was 18 hours old, grinder set at 19.5. Fabulous
shot, Mondo crema 3/8" deep in the demi. Right out of the roaster yesterday,
"This will get much better," according to Karen, my Celtic Critic. The
Capresso still makes credible espresso, but I'm not a barista, just a wet
nurse to keep the diapers/ towels wrung out.
Cheers, Mabuhay, magandang Gabi -RayO, aka Opa!
Got Grinder?
-- 
Persist in old ways; expect new results - suborn Insanity...
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10) From: Brian Kamnetz
T24gV2VkLCBNYXkgMjcsIDIwMDkgYXQgMToyNSBBTSwgwqA8cmF5bWFub3dlbkBnbWFpbC5jb20+
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11) From: Mark Osborne
Two bearings and a shim stack walk into a bar......
I'm with RayO on this one. They opened it up, swapped some parts, it
got hot and the fan worked, and they sent it back. Or sent a refurbed
one....
I've been doing a blend of Blue Krishna and Kenya lately. Had a hard
time figuring out the beans needed a different grind to get a good
shot, so I stir 'em up after grinding. The BK seems to be especially
finicky about grind, but the SJ is up to the task.....
Mark
Graton Ca, home of the WWII air raid siren the VFD uses. Of course the
NIMBYs want it gone......
On Wed, May 27, 2009 at 7:57 AM, Brian Kamnetz  wrote:
<Snip>
ter
<Snip>
uses it for a hammer!
<Snip>
ee.com
<Snip>
ee.com/gallery/main.php?g2_itemId=7820
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