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Topic: Problem with Behmor 1600 Roaster (8 msgs / 177 lines)
1) From: Jim Gundlach
My Behmor 1600 Roaster seems to have too short a bean carriage.  The  
carriage keeps climbing out of the right side of the carrier during  
roasting.  The mounting is not working as a bearing. My guess is a  
quality control issue.   Add to that that I am having temper control  
issues because of this illness so I am feeling too irritated to think  
about solving the problem.
I took a break, decided to watch it again and it is not too short, it  
is climbing out of the rotation notch on the left.  I thought about it  
and had the idea of adding a a little high temperature grease to the  
free riding stem on my left.  I did that and It seems to be working.   
I am in a much better mood.
One final thought is that the designer should have thought to have the  
rotation go the other way so it would not be inclined to hop out the  
low side of the notch.
    Pecan Jim,
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2) From: Bob Hazen
Jim,
I had a similar problem with mine, only the drive side was slipping out and 
the drum failed to rotate.  I thought for sure the drum was too short.  Joe 
Behm suggested I gently move the drum side-to-side before roasting to make 
sure the groove in the non-drive end was dropped fully into the "bearing." 
He did say that this was one of his bigger disappointments with the roaster.
I have been using a little bit of peanut oil on the non-drive side when 
things sound squeaky.  That and by careful seating of the non-drive end, I 
haven't had further problems.
What profile are you finding works best for you?  I found after a lot of 
experimentation that P2 works best for me.  I typically roast 1/2 lb batches 
on P2 - 1 lb, but reduce the starting time; generally to 15:50 or 16:50. 
When I get it right, the start of 1st crack starts about the time the Behmor 
kicks down in power.  This way I go into 1st gently and can stretch the 1st 
to 2nd time and nail FC or FC+.  If you haven't downloaded Ira's Behmor 
thing, I can send you an Excel spreadsheet that can help in finessing P2. 
My solution is very crude when compared to Ira's work, but being a simple 
spreadsheet you can run it on Excel or Open Office.
Good luck to you in your roasting and your recovery.
Bob
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3) From: Barry Luterman
Jim that is in the manual. I use a drop of cooking oil. Also check that the
left side bracket is perpendicular. Sometimes it gets bent in a bit and
pulls the shaft free of the motor mount. hang in there. Healing takes a
while.Anger is common after what you experienced. It will hopefully pass in
time or at least get more controllable.
On Sun, Jun 7, 2009 at 11:07 AM, Jim Gundlach wrote:
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4) From: Ray Tolar
Hi Jim. It should not do that because of lubrication mine squeeks once in a
while but it rides in the notch. I would look for somthing bent on the left
bracket or a defective basket hinge. Also just use a very small amount of
veggie oil instead of grease. Hope this helps  Regards Ray T
On Sun, Jun 7, 2009 at 2:07 PM, Jim Gundlach  wrote:
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5) From: Alchemist John
Jim,
I have found that sometime the bearing/bracket is not perpendicular, 
causing it to rub and fall out.
As for turning the other way, that would cause more problems then it 
fixes.  Since the drum rotates in a non-convection mode, having the 
drum rotate the other way has the beans away from the heat source too 
much and roast way to slow.
At 02:07 PM 6/7/2009, you wrote:
<Snip>
John Nanci
AlChemist at large
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6) From: Wally Merrin
<Snip>
I had the non-drive end climb out once during a cleaning cycle.  Since  
that time I have been careful to rotate the drum back and forth  
through its slack to make sure the square end is fully engaged in the  
drive and then move it side to side to make sure it is in the notch.   
There is very little movement either way (side-to-side or rotation)  
but doing that each time has prevented it from happening again.
Wally
==
Wally Merrin
wmerrin
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7) From: Jim Gundlach
Bob,
I used a high temperature agricultural grease from my grease gun and  
that worked fine for the one roast.  On which roast works best, I have  
not been up to doing test roasts and systematic comparisons yet.  This  
illness has left me so far behind on so many basic things that all I  
have been doing is roasting by some way that when I attempt to  
remember what I did, I forget.  I guess I will have to start taking  
notes, I never needed to do that in the past because I could remember  
anything I wanted to.  I got scales and I have reduced my roasts to 14  
ounces and roast like a pound.  It still requires the addition of a  
couple of minutes so I guess it is not getting as hot as it is  
supposed to.  I will need to test the circuit to see if I have full  
power before I blame the roaster.
pecan jim
On Jun 7, 2009, at 4:26 PM, Bob Hazen wrote:
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8) From: Jim Gundlach
The rack to hold the non-driven end looks perpendicular to me.  On the  
previous roast  it hopped out when it speeded up for the cooling  
stage.  On the first attempt with today's roast it hopped out after  
about three minutes roasting. The crease in the shaft has plenty of  
room for it and when it was dry the shaft would just rotate out and a  
little grease sure stopped the problem for one roast.  As usual your  
mechanical analysis is better than mine, you are right on keeping the  
beans close to the heating element.  I really don't know how the  
hopping out problem can be designed out of it, but I will make do with  
occasional greasing.
       pecan jim
On Jun 7, 2009, at 4:45 PM, Alchemist John wrote:
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