HomeRoast Digest

Topic: Profiles for the Behmor (14 msgs / 483 lines)
1) From: Mary Shue 
I plead insophistication when it comes to coffee roasting.  I have a  
Behmor and I'm still trying to make since of the profiles.  I was  
trying to just get to the first part of the 2nd crack on a bolivian  
bean.  I used profile A, 1/2 lb,and added 45 seconds (I think I saw  
that in one of the posts).  Well, between the smoke alarm, the Behmor  
and the stove fan, I pretty much overshot it.  Wasn't there an IPOD  
program to capture the frequency of the beans?  I know I saved it so  
I'll look back and find it.  I used profile D on another bean and  
never did get it to first crack (or just barely) even with adding as  
much extra time as I could.  Could someone explain these profiles  
either on or off list, or refer me to some archive?  I just can't seem  
to get it right.  Also, what is this "fix" that every talks about for  
the Behmor?  Let the new kid in on it.  Thanks!  Mary in A2
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2) From: Jim Couch 
Unless there is something VERY wrong with your Behmor you should have no
problems hearing the cracks...........
The program was one that (I believe) Pecan Jim posted about.....
Best way I have found to get to the darker roast with a Behmor is LIE to it
about how much coffee you are using...(weigh out a 1/2 pound and enter it on
your pad on the Behmor as a pound).
Jim, But Not Pecan.......
On Thu, Apr 8, 2010 at 4:20 AM, Mary Shue  wrote:
<Snip>
-- 
"Idiots are so much fun! Thats why every village either has one or wants
one!"
G. House MD.
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3) From: Yakster 
Mary,
If your using a PC, go to www.behmorthing.com and download Ira's BehmorThing
program that helps you plan your roasts and track your inventory.  Very
helpful program.  It even reminds you to do the cleaning cycles and
maintenance at the suggested intervals.  I could even send you my database
if you want to look at the profiles I've used, once you've installed it.  If
your not running a PC, I can dig up a spreadsheet that another Behmor fan
wrote and send it out to you.
Basically, there's five profiles, four times, and three weights that you
program in.  The P1 profile is just full power from the start of the roast
(once the heat ramps up) to the end, this can be good for large batches and
beans you want to take to first crack, but the beans can pick up enough heat
momentum that they'll go from first crack to second crack with little
separation and they can get roasting so fast that it can be difficult to
stop at a degree of roast you desire.  The A, B, C, and D buttons program in
the total length of the roast in time.
The P2 profile is designed to drop the temperature at or near first crack to
slow down the roast to keep you from barreling right into second and
beyond.  The temperature drop is the "second leg" of the roast and the third
leg takes it back up to full power to finish the roast (if you haven't
already hit cool to stop the roast)  Pushing the A, B, C, and D buttons will
control where this temperature drop occurs and it's best to use BehmorThing
to figure out when this happens.  Pushing the + and - buttons will not
change the timing of the second leg, just extends the last leg of the
roast.  You can roast a given bean at your standard load size on a P1
profile and note down where first crack occurs then program a P2 profile so
that the temperature drop occurs at or maybe 30 seconds before first crack
to utilize this.  Note that times will vary depending on the ambient temp,
my summer roast profiles are much quicker then my winter roast profiles.
The P3 through P5 profiles are profiles that start with lower heat and step
up to higher heat legs until the end of the roasts.  These work well for
general roasting and espresso.
As for the bean weights, I normally roast 10 - 13 ounces using a 1#
profile.  The load size is very important and you'll want to probably roast
the same amount each time so that you can get a feel for how long it takes
to get to first crack.  Most people under-dose their Behmor by several
ounces, say roast 6 ounces on a 1/2 pound profile, and it is depending on
your voltage.  You'll want to avoid extension cords and find an outlet that
has the least voltage drop (say the outlet that your washer/dryer are
plugged into which is usually run with larger wiring on a dedicated
circuit).
Here's what Joe Behm recommends for profiles of various beans:
P1-2.. all centrals, Peruvian and Colombians
P3... Brazilians, Africans, SE Asians, Malabar, Jamaican Blue Mtn and Yauco
Selecto
P4.. Kona and other low grown island coffeeshttp://coffeegeek.com/forums/coffee/homeroast/403859As for the "fix", if you can't seem to get into second crack and feel that
your Behmor isn't hot enough, contact Behmor Technical Support (really your
first contact should be to them if you feel you have a problem with your
roaster, their support is excellent) and they may provide instructions on a
procedure to mitigate this issue.
So, which profile (P1 - P5) did you use and what was the weight of the
beans?
There's lots more, check out the forums for more tips, but I've got to go.
Good luck,
-Chris
On Thu, Apr 8, 2010 at 2:20 AM, Mary Shue  wrote:
<Snip>
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4) From: Peter Louton 
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5) From: g paris 
hey mary,
you will do fine as you move along, there are things to remember that many
times you may not think about...
how much power is coming into the receptacle where you are using your
behmor?
are you in a house o apartment? that can change your power at different
times during the day.
please try to remember that there is NO RIGHT WAY!!!
there are some Behmor profiles here on Sweet Maria's also athttp://www.homeroasters.org/php/news.phpand several other places.
May I suggest the you forget profiles for the time being. Take 4/5 or 6
ounces of beans and just let the machine roast them for you.
I think once you see, smell and hear what happens you will understand the
idea of profiling.
Frankly with all of the machines I have had I "self profile" see um, smell
um and dump um!!
enjoy your Behmor, great machine.
ginny
please feel free to email me off list with any other questions?
how long have you been roasting. where do you roast?
On Thu, Apr 8, 2010 at 2:20 AM, Mary Shue  wrote:
<Snip>
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6) From: raymanowen 
 Hello, Mary in A2 [? as in Alaska in the list of US States?] As a "Ham," I
ran A1 and A3 modulation, Never A2.
The only popular fix for the Behmor seems to be the drum with smaller holes
so that small [peaberry, etc] beans don't fall through.
I think you might take care of it with some hardware store stainless steel
screen mesh lining the interior of the drum. Might work on the exterior if
you attach it tightly with copper, brass or iron wire ties. From same
hardware store.
Cheers, Mabuhay -RayO, aka Opa!
Got Grinder?
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7) From: Dave Huddle 
Mary
I suspect the 'fix' you mentioned is the "bending the sheet metal with
a screw driver adjustment" which allows the Behmor to roast hotter -
gets to 2nd crack easier..
(It's a simple, easy fix.)
I still have the image file and instructions Joe Behm sent, if you want it.
Dave
Westerville OH
On Thu, Apr 8, 2010 at 5:20 AM, Mary Shue  wrote:
<Snip>
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ariascoffee.com
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8) From: Greg Hollrigel 
Robert:
I think your understanding is incorrect, if I understand what you wrote.
There was a detailed thread on the CoffeeGeek forum about this.  My current
understanding is that the + and - buttons only affect the length of the 3rd
leg, regardless if they're pushed before or after the roast is started.
Chris or Ira - is my understanding correct?  I recall that you were involved
to some extent on that CG thread.
So that's what I've been following since I read the CG thread.
Greg

9) From: Robert D. Crawford 
"Greg Hollrigel"  writes:
<Snip>
Here is the relevant section of the manual.  I can't tell you what page
it can be found on because I have to convert the manual to text before I
can read it.  I've inserted text but it should be clear what I've
added.  
-- 
Robert D. Crawford                                     robdcraw
After an instrument has been assembled, extra components will be found
on the bench.
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10) From: Greg Hollrigel 
Robert:
Here is what Joe Behm stated about this topic after discussing it with his
engineers in China:
I have just returned from Asia along with Central America and while in Asia
I witnessed testing,  conferred with engineers, and have indeed confirmed
the only way to adjust the full profiles, prior to start, is to press either
A, B. C or D. In both the prestart or post start mode,  +/- will NOT alter
anything except the final leg.
The relevant post is available at this link:http://coffeegeek.com/forums/coffee/homeroast/456116?LastView71005694&Page
I think the manual was incorrect as originally written..
Greg
On Sun, Apr 11, 2010 at 9:06 AM, Robert D. Crawford wrote:
<Snip>
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11) From: Yakster 
I confirmed by testing on my Behmor while monitoring the temperature that
the + and - buttons only affect the last leg of the profile both when
entered before hitting start and afterwards.
Joe Behm has since updated the manual and the latest version can be found on
www.behmor.com.
Ira has also update BehmorThing to reflect this so that profiles entered in
BehmorThing will match what the roaster does.
Personally, I was never a big user of the + and - buttons to adjust the
start of the P2 temp drop, but I have used a pre-roast of up to two minutes
(load the beans and start a P1 profile then stop the roast before two
minutes*, quickly program your P2 profile and hit start to continue) when I
was roasting a large batch where I needed the P2 temp drop to be pushed out
past what was available in the A, B, and C timings.  BehmorThing has logic
to track pre-roasts and makes this easy.  Nowadays, I usually roast a batch
size (10 - 13 oz) that doesn't require pre-roasting.  The most effective way
to control your roasts is by tuning your batch size (as with other
roasters).
I've got about 125 roasts on my refurb Behmor and am still very happy with
it.  The family loves the roasted almonds.
-Chris
*A pre-roast exceeding two minutes (and even less with some roasters) can
cause the roaster to heat to a temperature that will not allow you to
re-start the roast using this procedure.
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12) From: Ira 
At 07:29 PM 4/10/2010, you wrote:
<Snip>
Effectively the + and - buttons only let you change the length of the 
roast, they have no effect on the timing of the transition points of 
the profiles, those are purely defined by the weight and letter 
buttons.  As far as I can tell, the - button should never be used, 
and the + button is only needed if the roast is about to end to 
early, other than that, just press Cool when it's time to stop.
Ira
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13) From: Ira 
At 10:12 AM 4/11/2010, you wrote:
<Snip>
I think a more correct interpretation is the manual was 
incomprehensible as originally written, at least that's the 
conclusion I come to when I red the original manual. I'm sure a 
competent member of a debate team could use that manual to convince 
you it worked any way they wanted.
Ira
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14) From: Robert D. Crawford 
Greg Hollrigel  writes:
<Snip>
Aah, well.  Seems a definitive case of GIGO.  Thanks for the
clarification.
I think I'll go back to lurker mode.
Thanks again and sorry for the confusion,
rdc
-- 
Robert D. Crawford                                     robdcraw
This Fortune Examined By INSPECTOR NO. 2-14
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