HomeRoast Digest


Topic: Bulk Grinder for Drip (32 msgs / 937 lines)
1) From: Maxwell Heathcott
Lately, I haven't been terribly happy with my various drip methods.  Honestly: I've found inconsistency to be the rule when switching between grinds for vacpot, clever dripper, and Chemex.  I have adjusted methods and grinds according to prevailing wisdom, as well as according to just what seems to work.  I'm using a Breville Ikon for my grinding, and I think it just releases too many fines (or, more simply: the grind just isn't consistent enough) for everything to function smoothly and for me to be happy.  I'm thinking I need a relatively inexpensive bulk grinder, and I'm leaning toward a Bunn G1 (Ebay or otherwise used). Anyone have any counter-suggestions that I should consider before I go that way?
Thanks!!
MH
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2) From: Edward Bourgeois
Yup, a bunn low profile lpg is a good choice too. The burr cut is
different (bigger release channels) than an espresso burr grinder so
produces less fines. Be aware that replacement burr set if needed are
quite pricey on coffee grinders compared to espresso grinders
On Fri, Jun 25, 2010 at 4:17 PM, Maxwell Heathcott
 wrote:
<Snip>
nestly: I've found inconsistency to be the rule when switching between grin=
ds for vacpot, clever dripper, and Chemex.  I have adjusted methods and g=
rinds according to prevailing wisdom, as well as according to just what see=
ms to work.  I'm using a Breville Ikon for my grinding, and I think it ju=
st releases too many fines (or, more simply: the grind just isn't consisten=
t enough) for everything to function smoothly and for me to be happy.  I'=
m thinking I need a relatively inexpensive bulk grinder, and I'm leaning to=
ward a Bunn G1 (Ebay or otherwise used). Anyone have any counter-suggestion=
s that I should consider before I go that way?
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r inbox.
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:ON:WL:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_2
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ariascoffee.com
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ee.com/gallery/main.php?g2_itemId=7820
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-- =
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3) From: Bob Hazen
"I have adjusted methods and grinds according to prevailing wisdom. . . ."
Could you elaborate about the "prevailing wisdom" a bit for us?  That may 
help us offer you some advice.
Bob

4) From: miKe mcKoffee
Pricey as in Bunn burr sets ~$200, and I need to order TWO sets :(
Slave to the Bean miKe mcKoffeehttp://www.mckoffee.com/Ultimately the quest for Koffee Nirvana is a solitary path. To know I must">http://www.NorwestCoffee.comURL to Rosto mods, FrankenFormer, some recipes etc:http://www.mckoffee.com/Ultimately the quest for Koffee Nirvana is a solitary path. To know I must
first not know. And in knowing know I know not. Each Personal enlightenment
found exploring the many divergent foot steps of Those who have gone before.
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5) From: raymanowen
"coffee grinders compared to espresso grinders"
Let me get this straight- you advocate exchanging one machine with excellent
burrs, for viele echten Scheißteil with coffee-wrecking burrs?
I have a machine located within a few steps of here that I can load with
whole roasted coffee beans.  Like an engine lathe or broach, I can adjust it
to do exactly what I want to the beans..
Anybody with a room-temperature IQ would probably use the same car to go to
a show or do the shopping. "coffee grinders compared to espresso grinders"
implies having a different router motor for each router bit you own. Was zum
Teufel?
An assortment of toy grinders with different burr settings is a ludicrous
waste of finances and real estate on the counter top since a big grinder
with excellent burrs takes less space and destroys less coffee than multiple
swell Mattels from Grinders-r-Us.
You could probably run only one at a time, no matter how many or how much
space and coffee destruction you can tolerate.
Have fun in your grinder warehouse...
Cheers -RayO, aka Opa!
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6) From: miKe mcKoffee
Reply bottom posted... 
<Snip>
Not necessarily. Might go shopping with a large beater van to accommodate
piles of stuff and go to the show in a nice looking whatever. 
Router wise analogy also doesn't cut it either. Just as different router
bits have different cutting purposes different grinders use burrs designed
for different types of grind. While your Mazzer Major "can" grind for other
than espresso, other grinders designed specifically for non-espresso
grinding will grind better for other than espresso. Grinding for espresso
requires plurimodal particle grinding while non-espresso grinding the more
uniform particle grind the better.
Slave to the Bean miKe mcKoffeehttp://www.mckoffee.com/Ultimately the quest for Koffee Nirvana is a solitary path. To know I must">http://www.NorwestCoffee.comURL to Rosto mods, FrankenFormer, some recipes etc:http://www.mckoffee.com/Ultimately the quest for Koffee Nirvana is a solitary path. To know I must
first not know. And in knowing know I know not. Each Personal enlightenment
found exploring the many divergent foot steps of Those who have gone before.
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7) From: Rich
Well, I use an antique Hobart grinder and it does a lovely job on 
everything but espresso.  The espresso grinder is a disaster on anything 
but espresso.
Look at it this way: how many golf clubs do you have in your bag?  Why 
so many?
miKe mcKoffee wrote:
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8) From: Maxwell Heathcott
Didn't want to get into too much detail considering that I'm talking about several different methods as I mentioned in my first post.
In a nutshell: coarser for Chemex, finer for straight drip, and somewhere in between for vacpot. Blooming for a bitwith pour-overs.  Keeping dwell-times (or drip times) appropriate to avoid over- or under-extraction. That sort of thing.
The primary problem that I get is stalling in just about any method unless I'm using a very coarse grind (at which point, I'm inevitably under-extracting). This implies to me (and I've only been geeking out for about three years now, so WTF do I know . . . )that I'm getting fines that are clogging my world up.  
In reply to the posts that have come as of late:  I'm using a Super Jolly for espresso.  I'm happy with it.It's consistent, and it works.  I DON'T want to use it for pour-over (or otherwise) because I can dial it in for myespresso, and I can make tiny adjustments day after day based on bean age, weather, etc. and, as I said: it works. If I go spinning the thing three inches to the right to make two cups of drip, then I'm going to burn through a quarter pound of beans to get back to perfect espresso.  You dig?
--mh
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9) From: michael brown
I bought a G1 for flavored coffee and G3 for regular grinding at the shop via ebay.  G1 has done fine.  The G3 was a nightmare.  The gear/grind setting shaft was rusted all the way through...no matter how you rotated the knob it spit out the same grind.  Took lots of work and lots of muscles to free it up and it works fine now.  That's just a little side story, lesson learned...probably won't go through ebay again for equipment such as that.  That's just me.  Use your own discretion.  There were several emails sent back and forth before the purchase between me and the seller.  Thought i had asked all the appropriate questions to assure i was getting a good deal.
To your point, here's what i have and am fairly happy with...At the shop my G3 works for grinding customer's coffee as well as grinding for my chemex, CCD, and regular ole pot o' coffee when i'm feeling lazy.  I have a super jolly as well for my espresso.At home i have a virtuoso, calibrated to grind finer that the factory settings so i can pull shots with it.  I'm kind of ho-hum on the virtuoso these days.  I think it is a good machine for the price and at home i use it for espresso, chemex, and CCD as well.  I'm kind of looking at the virtuoso as a good starter grinder these days...got the itch to upgrade.
Hope this helps,
Michael Bb'ham, AL
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10) From: Doug Hoople
I'm with MiKe on this.
There are grinders that are geared for non-espresso uses (primarily drip)
that have their burr sets designed for uniform coarser output. They're not
generally discussed on the US side of the Atlantic.
The Europeans, however, are quite adamant that the great espresso grinders
(Super Jolly, Robur, etc) are not suited for drip grinding.
Think high-end Mahlkoenigs and you get the idea.
Doug
On Sat, Jun 26, 2010 at 7:53 AM, miKe mcKoffee  wrote:
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11) From: Doug Hoople
It's been a while, so I'll just stick in my $0.02 on fines and stalling in
vacpots.
Going coarse with your grind to prevent stalls is completely unnecessary,
and it might even exacerbate the problem instead of making things better.
That's counterintuitive, of course, but it's true.
You can actually reduce stalling with vacpots by going FINER, not coarser.
Some of the most consistent drawdowns I've experienced have been with very
fine grinds.
Still, you shouldn't be fiddling with grind to solve mechanical problems
with stalling. You should be grinding for optimal flavor.
Fix your mechanical stalling problems by blowing the fines out of the bottom
of the funnel with a burst of heat just before taking the pot off the
burner.
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12) From: Joseph Robertson
Doug,
I have a Mahlkoenig VTA6SI3http://www.mahlkoenig.com/us_products/VTA-6S-three-phase.htmlWill this grind for Drip. Seriously, I own this but I have never tried drip
coffee from it. Why do the burrs on this unit do better for drip than a 600
or 800 dollar Super Jolly. We could say "German engineering" but what does
that really mean here in this discussion?
Joe
On Sun, Jun 27, 2010 at 5:49 PM, Doug Hoople  wrote:
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13) From: Doug Hoople
Hi Joe,
I don't own any of these "German engineering" masterpieces, so all I can do
is speculate.
What I suspect is that the "exit chutes" on the burrs for a "drip grinder"
are more widely spaced than the "exit chutes" on an "espresso grinder."
Thus, you're less likely to get some of the coffee forced through a spacing
that yields fines.
If that's true, then the "drip grinders" so highly valued in Europe would
likely yield output at espresso settings that is less fine than one would
like for perfect espresso.
All speculation. I'd love to hear from someone whose primary experience is
with these mythical "drip grinders." We've got no end of solid experience
with "espresso grinders" here on the SM list.  But I can't think of a single
SM poster who has developed solid expertise with a "drip grinder." Could be
all myth, but my gut tells me that there's something to this.
Doug
On Sun, Jun 27, 2010 at 6:09 PM, Joseph Robertson wrote:
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14) From: Doug Hoople
Sorry, I should clarify.
By "exit chutes," I'm really referring to the outer vanes of the burrs. I'm
not referring at all to the real exit chute, which would have nothing at all
to do with this discussion.
Please forgive me in advance for being loose with my terminology.
Thanks.
Doug
On Sun, Jun 27, 2010 at 9:14 PM, Doug Hoople  wrote:
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15) From: raymanowen
"... the more uniform particle grind the better."
That's the Bottom Line, is it not, miKe?  When you sent the Kona, I only
ground enough for One Shot on the comical-burred Solis Maestro Plus. In
spite of several burr replacements, the grounds looked grim and the cup
lacked taste. The Kona was sure exciting, nonetheless. Still, I had the
definite feeling something was being left behind.
You said a mouthful! When I first saw the term "Plurimodal particle
distribution," I realized it described the exact problem I was having. The
solution to a problem does not lie in describing the problem accurately
although it's a start, as we know. The grounds out of the Solis looked like
particles in the Asteroid Belt. "Plurimodal Particle" Pferdescheiße well
described the problem, left standing with no solution proposed.
With the caveat that I "Refrain from new Hot Wheels," (had been saving for a
neat Maserati in '73 - '74 when Swedish and Craig sold me some of their
excellent services) my Celtic Critic OK'd a 3 phase 240v Mahlkönig grinder
from a demonstration show.  At least, we didn't owe Horan and McConaty!
Cheers, Mabuhay -RayO, aka Opa!.
Plurimodal Pferdescheiße!
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16) From: Joseph Robertson
RayO,
miKe? Sent you Kona? Who sent you Kona? I'm not sure I'm on track here.
Help me here.
I'm not sure what you mean.
Joseph
On Sun, Jun 27, 2010 at 11:09 PM,  wrote:
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17) From: Bob Glasscock
FWIW Doug,
My vacpot experience points to chaff as being a major culprit in 
stalls, and I've gotten so paranoid about it that I try to blow the 
chaff out of the grind before loading the vacpot. My real nemesis with 
stalls have been with peaberries, which seem to produce lots of chaff 
(more surface, I suppose). What do you folks with way more experience 
than I have think? And on your advice I will try the finer grind and 
see how that works out. 
Bob G. in Ala. 
Quoting Doug Hoople :
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Bob Glasscock
Greenville, AL
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18) From: Maxwell Heathcott
Agreed on the optimal flavor bit.  I'll fiddle with the burst-of-heat-blowout method and see what I come up with.
Still: vacpot is only one of the four filter methods that I mentioned.  One of my biggest frustrations is consistency with a Chemex. In that situation, I've frequently encountered slow dripping, and have been forced to increase grind size to the point of under-extraction.No me gusta. 
Therefore, I'm left to wonder . . . what would a good drip grinder be?  Or if that question is deemed inappropriate (vis-a-vis the grinder discussions that this has spawned),what would a good (and preferably sub-$500) secondary grinder be, since I'll be using my SJ solely for espresso?
--mh
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19) From: John Borella
If you look at the info in that link it states that Mahlkoenig offers 
different burr sets for Espresso, Turkish & Regular coffee grinding. Each is 
designed to excell in that particular range.
John B.

20) From: Rich
Well, you can just about bet the farm that the  "good drip grinder" will 
not be made in Italy.  Try a Bunn.
Maxwell Heathcott wrote:
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21) From: Edward Bourgeois
I got hold of a Grindmaster shortly after I build my roaster for the
occasional need to grind a bag for a customer. I then found that
Grindmasters use crushing burrs where Bunn uses cutting burrs. I've
been looking for a steal on a used Bunn with burrs in great condition
but no luck yet. I thought I would then try some sifting and
comparisons and keep the one I preferred. This topic has come up a few
times on H-B and it has been thought that the Bunn cutting burrs are a
better choice. I've also asked about what has been used in Europe over
time for coffee as we see many espresso grinders but much fewer coffee
examples. The Mahlkoenig and Ditting are what come to mind. I've tried
to find out if Mazzer did a coffee grinder or had a different burr set
but it seems they don't. In the US we see lots of commercial coffee
grinders but why so few from other countries? What is traditionally
used in the rest of world for grinding coffee in commercial settings?
Some hand mills definitely have courser burr cuts than others but are
great for a dripper but not designed for grinding larger quantities..
-- 
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22) From: Ed Needham
"I then found that Grindmasters use crushing burrs where Bunn uses cutting 
burrs."
Ed, just curious where you got this information.  It's been a while since I 
looked into grinders, but in the past, Bunn grinders were all made by 
Grindmaster here in Louisville and were no different than other Grindmaster 
and rebranded grinders made by Grindmaster.  Things may have changed, but 
this is the first I've ever heard of a 'crushing grinder' except for the big 
industrial roller grinders.
What would a crushing grinder burr look like? vs. a cutting burr?  I've only 
seen the cutting burrs, flat and conical.  Of course the cheapie Walmart 
burr grinders are not sharp and pretty much crush more than cut, but we're 
not talking about those.
*********************
Ed Needham
"to absurdity and beyond!"http://www.homeroaster.com*********************

23) From: Edward Bourgeois
Ed
Here is a link with picture.http://www.cw-usa.com/parts-grindmaster-commercial-grinding-burr-set.html I'm not sure if Grindmaster calls them crushing burrs but that's been
the term generally used. They definitely have a different design.
Ed B.
On Mon, Jun 28, 2010 at 10:30 AM, Ed Needham  wrote:
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24) From: Edward Bourgeois
For those interested here is a picture of the Bunn burr cut.http://www.etundra.com/Burr_Set_Kit-P16741.htmlOn Mon, Jun 28, 2010 at 11:16 AM, Edward Bourgeois
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-- =
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Amherst MA.http://coffee-roasting.blogspot.com/Homeroast mailing list
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25) From: Bryan Wray
Sorry if I'm mentioning things already brought up, I'm coming into this thr=
ead way late.
Regarding Bunn vs. Grindmaster, I have indeed found exactly the same thing =
as Ed.
I've worked on dozens (probably getting close to hundreds) of Bunn/Grindmas=
ter bulk grinders and they are all exactly the same on the inside.  Diffe=
rent caps on the outside, but their guts are all the same.
My guess would be that, more than likely, somewhere someone used the termin=
ology that Grindmaster "crushes the coffee" where other grinders cut, refer=
ring to blade grinders, not other high quality burr grinders and certainly =
not in reference to Bunn grinders.
We were recently lucky enough to be able to pick up both a Mahlkonig Guatem=
ala and a Ditting KF804 to go along with some Bunn G Series grinders we alr=
eady had.
So far my opinion would be that the Ditting makes the other grinders look l=
ike children's toys.  Well, maybe not that extreme, but I definitely pref=
er the Ditting.  However, the Ditting has a strange "exit chute" that oft=
en gets backed up, which is really frustrating when using it for "by the cu=
p" grinding.  The Ditting weighs almost twice as much as either of the ot=
her grinders, and yet the grinder is unbelievably quiet.  It is WAY quiet=
er than the Mahlkonig and quite a bit quieter than the Bunn.  The burr ca=
rriers are huge, meaning they'll take forever to fully heat up (also, conse=
quently meaning once they are hot they'll take forever to cool down).  Sp=
eed seems to be about the same no matter what, but we need to grab new burr=
 sets for the grinders so comparison isn't fair at this point.  Also, gri=
nd quality is relatively the same from all the grinders.
Because I'm coming into the conversation late, did someone already point to=
 why a Super Jolly (or any grinder with burrs designed for espresso extract=
ion) is a poor choice for anything other than espresso?  I'm guessing pro=
bably yes...  Regardless, if you have never read through Ephram's present=
ation on grinding, you should:http://www.mpechicago.com/coffee/images/uplo=ads/pdfs/SCAA_2010.pdf.  Start digging in around page 18...  Some parts=
 are really general, but not all.  Also, this is a decent quick read: htt=
p://www.mpechicago.com/coffee/AboutUltrafine/Onsite_Articles/Coffee%20%20Co=
coa%204-06.pdf.  In this article he talks more about plurimodal grinding.=
  Neither of these articles go over the top at all, but if you haven't ev=
er looked at particle distribution graphs before, this is a nice place to s=
tart.
-bry
Bryan Wray
Nor'West Coffee
360.831.1480
Bryan
It is my hope that people realize that coffee is more than just a caffeine =
delivery service, it can be a culinary art- Chris Owens
--- On Mon, 6/28/10, Ed Needham  wrote:
From: Ed Needham 
Subject: Re: [Homeroast] Bulk Grinder for Drip
To: "A list to discuss home coffee roasting. There are rules for thislist, =
available athttp://www.sweetmarias.com/maillistinfo.html"
Date: Monday, June 28, 2010, 7:30 AM
"I then found that Grindmasters use crushing burrs where Bunn uses cutting =
burrs."
Ed, just curious where you got this information.  It's been a while since=
 I looked into grinders, but in the past, Bunn grinders were all made by Gr=
indmaster here in Louisville and were no different than other Grindmaster a=
nd rebranded grinders made by Grindmaster.  Things may have changed, but =
this is the first I've ever heard of a 'crushing grinder' except for the bi=
g industrial roller grinders.
What would a crushing grinder burr look like? vs. a cutting burr?  I've o=
nly seen the cutting burrs, flat and conical.  Of course the cheapie Walm=
art burr grinders are not sharp and pretty much crush more than cut, but we=
're not talking about those.
*********************
Ed Needham
"to absurdity and beyond!"http://www.homeroaster.com*********************

26) From: Bryan Wray
That's strange to me... but hey, there it is!  I've never seen those burr=
s in a Grindmaster before, just the ones that are pictured for the Bunn gri=
nder.
... now I'm curious as to why...
-bry
Bryan Wray
Nor'West Coffee
360.831.1480
Bryan
It is my hope that people realize that coffee is more than just a caffeine =
delivery service, it can be a culinary art- Chris Owens
--- On Mon, 6/28/10, Edward Bourgeois  wrote:
From: Edward Bourgeois 
Subject: Re: [Homeroast] Bulk Grinder for Drip
To: "A list to discuss home coffee roasting. There are rules for this list,=
 available athttp://www.sweetmarias.com/maillistinfo.html"
Date: Monday, June 28, 2010, 8:25 AM
For those interested here is a picture of the Bunn burr cut.http://www.etundra.com/Burr_Set_Kit-P16741.htmlOn Mon, Jun 28, 2010 at 11:16 AM, Edward Bourgeois
 wrote:
<Snip>
e:
<Snip>
ng
<Snip>
nce I
<Snip>
ter
<Snip>
but
<Snip>
 big
<Snip>
e only
<Snip>
rt
<Snip>
re
<Snip>
tmariascoffee.com
<Snip>
mariascoffee.com
<Snip>
-- =
Ed Bourgeois aka farmroast
Amherst MA.http://coffee-roasting.blogspot.com/Homeroast mailing list
Homeroasthttp://host.sweetmariascoffee.com/mailman/listinfo/homeroast_lists.sweetmar=iascoffee.com
Homeroast community pictures -upload yours!) :http://www.sweetmariascoffee=.com/gallery/main.php?g2_itemId=7820
      =
Homeroast mailing list
Homeroasthttp://host.sweetmariascoffee.com/mailman/listinfo/homeroast_lists.sweetmar=iascoffee.com
Homeroast community pictures -upload yours!) :http://www.sweetmariascoffee=.com/gallery/main.php?g2_itemId=7820

27) From: Edward Bourgeois
I just checked my Grindmaster burrs (good excuse to clean them) and
they are the same as the Grindmaster I linked above but the Bunn sets
I've seen lately are like the Bunn set I linked and are more similar
to a espresso cut just that that channels are more oval shaped with a
larger release area.
On Mon, Jun 28, 2010 at 12:04 PM, Bryan Wray
 wrote:
<Snip>
rrs in a Grindmaster before, just the ones that are pictured for the Bunn g=
rinder.
<Snip>
e delivery service, it can be a culinary art- Chris Owens
<Snip>
t, available athttp://www.sweetmarias.com/maillistinfo.html"
<Snip>
te:
<Snip>
ing
<Snip>
ince I
<Snip>
ster
<Snip>
 but
<Snip>
e big
<Snip>
ve only
<Snip>
art
<Snip>
're
<Snip>
etmariascoffee.com
<Snip>
tmariascoffee.com
<Snip>
ariascoffee.com
<Snip>
ee.com/gallery/main.php?g2_itemId=7820
<Snip>
ariascoffee.com
<Snip>
ee.com/gallery/main.php?g2_itemId=7820
<Snip>
-- =
Ed Bourgeois aka farmroast
Amherst MA.http://coffee-roasting.blogspot.com/Homeroast mailing list
Homeroasthttp://host.sweetmariascoffee.com/mailman/listinfo/homeroast_lists.sweetmar=iascoffee.com
Homeroast community pictures -upload yours!) :http://www.sweetmariascoffee=.com/gallery/main.php?g2_itemId=7820

28) From: Edward Bourgeois
To add, I've had my Grindmaster 835 for about 5 years and it was used
when I got it. Can't find a date on it and the serial # 158424PA and
not sure any of the numbers indicate the year.
On Mon, Jun 28, 2010 at 1:08 PM, Edward Bourgeois  w=
rote:
<Snip>
urrs in a Grindmaster before, just the ones that are pictured for the Bunn =
grinder.
<Snip>
ne delivery service, it can be a culinary art- Chris Owens
<Snip>
st, available athttp://www.sweetmarias.com/maillistinfo.html"
<Snip>
ml
<Snip>
ote:
<Snip>
ting
<Snip>
since I
<Snip>
aster
<Snip>
, but
<Snip>
he big
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've only
<Snip>
mart
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e're
<Snip>
eetmariascoffee.com
<Snip>
etmariascoffee.com
<Snip>
mariascoffee.com
<Snip>
fee.com/gallery/main.php?g2_itemId=7820
<Snip>
mariascoffee.com
<Snip>
fee.com/gallery/main.php?g2_itemId=7820
<Snip>
-- =
Ed Bourgeois aka farmroast
Amherst MA.http://coffee-roasting.blogspot.com/Homeroast mailing list
Homeroasthttp://host.sweetmariascoffee.com/mailman/listinfo/homeroast_lists.sweetmar=iascoffee.com
Homeroast community pictures -upload yours!) :http://www.sweetmariascoffee=.com/gallery/main.php?g2_itemId=7820

29) From: Joseph Robertson
Go bunn,
Something I think I can afford....
Joe
On Mon, Jun 28, 2010 at 7:11 AM, Rich  wrote:
<Snip>
-- 
Ambassador for Specialty Coffee and palate reform.
Homeroast mailing list
Homeroasthttp://www.sweetmariascoffee.com/gallery/main.php?g2_itemIdx20">http://host.sweetmariascoffee.com/mailman/listinfo/homeroast_lists.sweetmariascoffee.comHomeroast community pictures -upload yours!) :http://www.sweetmariascoffee.com/gallery/main.php?g2_itemIdx20

30) From: Joseph Robertson
I'm trying to understand why some burrs work for drip and some don't......
Shape? conical? I'm always being asked this and don't really understand.
Joe
On Mon, Jun 28, 2010 at 9:04 AM, Bryan Wray
wrote:
<Snip>
-- 
Ambassador for Specialty Coffee and palate reform.
Homeroast mailing list
Homeroasthttp://www.sweetmariascoffee.com/gallery/main.php?g2_itemIdx20">http://host.sweetmariascoffee.com/mailman/listinfo/homeroast_lists.sweetmariascoffee.comHomeroast community pictures -upload yours!) :http://www.sweetmariascoffee.com/gallery/main.php?g2_itemIdx20

31) From: Doug Hoople
Hi Bob,
Finer grind might improve things, but, in my experience, the only thing that
actually fixes outright the problem of drawdown delays and stalls is blowing
the fines back up in the funnel with a short burst of heat just before
taking the vacpot off the burner.
Also, not to be painfully repetitive, but I'm averse to the idea of
adjusting grind settings to fix mechanical problems if there's another way
of fixing them. Ideally, we should be grinding for optimal extraction and
optimal flavor.
Thanks.
Doug
On Mon, Jun 28, 2010 at 4:49 AM, Bob Glasscock wrote:
<Snip>
Homeroast mailing list
Homeroasthttp://www.sweetmariascoffee.com/gallery/main.php?g2_itemIdx20">http://host.sweetmariascoffee.com/mailman/listinfo/homeroast_lists.sweetmariascoffee.comHomeroast community pictures -upload yours!) :http://www.sweetmariascoffee.com/gallery/main.php?g2_itemIdx20

32) From: Bob Glasscock
Thanks Doug,
It took a second reading, but now I get it. Sorry if my post as o/t. 
-Bob
Quoting Doug Hoople :
<Snip>
Bob Glasscock
Greenville, AL
Homeroast mailing list
Homeroasthttp://www.sweetmariascoffee.com/gallery/main.php?g2_itemIdx20">http://host.sweetmariascoffee.com/mailman/listinfo/homeroast_lists.sweetmariascoffee.comHomeroast community pictures -upload yours!) :http://www.sweetmariascoffee.com/gallery/main.php?g2_itemIdx20


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