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Topic: List Traffic at Zero and Roast Time Length (19 msgs / 495 lines)
1) From: Robert Yoder
Hi Kevin,
 
It looks like we've got a little movement, so the connections are good!
 
I've had a lull in roasting, lately.  I went from popper to uber-popper to Behmor. My typical roast is 1/5 pound and I haven't found a good way to get that done.  The Behmor produced a noticeable improvement over the air-poppers (IMO), but I've seen all along that it roasted too fast.  When that small batch goes into exothermic, there's no stretching time at all.  (Typical Roast is P1 or P2).  I despair over the Behmor, feeling that it is so much more but so much less than I want.  My last roast before my roasting hiatus used P3, or P4 (notes not at hand) in order to stretch out the roast to a reasonable length.  Unless this was completely random, if I recall correctly, the depth of flavor from that roast was astonishing, compared to what I had been experiencing.  This is the first time I have sort of given up roasting out of frustration, and I think the Behmor is the instigator:  it showed me both what I hadn't got and what I don't seem to be able to get.  So the Behmor has been a great, instructive, pause in my journey.
 
Happy Roasting,
 
robert yoder
 
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2) From: =?iso-8859-1?Q?Claus_Th=F8gersen?=
Hi,
1/5 that is technical less than the Behmor can roast on the settings.
I have never really used 1/4 pound, but it is said to be a hard small batch 
to roast, so smaller is probably even harder.
Have you tried opening the door during the end of first crack?
Claus

3) From: Robert Yoder
Hi, Claus,
 
Thanks for your post.
 
I checked with Joe Behm before purchasing my Behmor.  He was kind enough to try a fifth-pound roast, but said it took LONGER than he had expected. 
 
I do open the door a bit at first crack.
 
This weekend I'll give it another go.  
 
Still a work in progress. 
Happy Roasting,
 
robert
 
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4) From: ricky carter
200 to 300 grams seems to be the sweet spot for me in the Behmor.  Smaller
load sizes are definitely more difficult to get right, for me anyway.
I think the Behmor works on both radiant and bean to bean convective (?)
too. If you don't have enough bean mass to store the radiant heat things may
go slower and less predictably?  just a thought, no solid evidence other
than roasting results.
On Fri, Sep 24, 2010 at 3:51 PM, Robert Yoder wrote:
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5) From: Rich
I get the
best results with 1.25lb batches.
ricky carter wrote:
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6) From: Joseph Robertson
Robert,
Do you know what your warranty is on your Behmor?
Parts and labor? One year?
Thanks Robert,
Joe
On Fri, Sep 24, 2010 at 12:51 PM, Robert Yoder wrote:
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7) From: Michael Wascher
Interesting.
Mine works best at just under a pound ...
“We’ve got no money, so we’ve got to think.”
--Dr. Ernest Rutherford, the father of nuclear physics
On Fri, Sep 24, 2010 at 6:24 PM, Rich  wrote:
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8) From: Rich
That would be within the expected normal variation for the device.  P-1, =
1.25lb, 18min initial time, 1st @ 4 min remain.
Michael Wascher wrote:
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9) From: Yakster
I've been pushing close to a full pound lately on my Behmor and liking the
results.  I used to target between 10 - 13 oz but was always short on coffee
during the week so I push close to a full pound when I'm roasting light shy
of Full City+ which since I roast to City and City+ for most roasts is fine
with me.
I've also been opening the door during first crack to slow the roll.  I do a
P3 typically to first and open the door to control the temp (watch the temp
on a thermocouple in the back of the Behmor.  I start with a pre-heat by
running the Behmor for a minute with the (old style) chaff try in, then
hitting stop and putting in the loaded drum with my Ove Glove protected
hands and programming my P3 profile and hitting start.  This gives me a
drop-in temp of 200 degrees and also helps to make my summer/winter roast
profiles more closely correlated since they start at about the same temp
instead of 20 - 30 degrees apart.  When the Behmor has been in the cool
cycle for about two minutes, I'll hit stop and pull the drum and dump the
beans in my external bean cooler and restart the cooling cycle on the Behmor
to cool the beans down within about four minutes.  I find that the Behmor
does a great job bringing the beans down to about 200 degrees F, but after
that the cooling slows and the oven will retain heat so it really slows when
trying for room temp beans.
This is giving times in the 14 - 18 minute range to first crack which many
will consider too long, but I've been liking what I'm getting in the cup and
liking the increased batch size.  Note that I did pick out the hottest
outlet to roast (highest voltage, least voltage drop) for best performance
by using the washer dryer outlet that's on it's own circuit on a short run
from the breaker box, I think that helps.  I use a Kill-A-Watt to watch the
voltage and once decided it was a no-go for roasting because I was smoking
meat with the electric meat smoker in the back yard during a hot summer day
and the Behmor on the pre-heat pulled the voltage down to 112 or 114 V which
I knew was a no-go.
Good luck!
-Chris
On Fri, Sep 24, 2010 at 11:42 PM, ricky carter  wrote:
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10) From: ricky carter
cooling is the reason i keep my roasts between 200 and 300 grams.
On Fri, Sep 24, 2010 at 8:41 PM, Yakster  wrote:
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11) From: Yakster
Yeah, it takes a while to cool those big roasts.  That's why I pull the
beans and cool them with a shop vac in my own cooler made from owned and
trifted components shown here:http://s661.photobucket.com/albums/uu332/yakster/?action=view¤tG_5038.jpg.
Do make sure you use some heat proof gloves, though, that drum gets HOT!
-Chris
On Sat, Sep 25, 2010 at 4:30 AM, ricky carter  wrote:
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12) From: ricky carter
nice, and simple!
On Fri, Sep 24, 2010 at 10:39 PM, Yakster  wrote:
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13) From: raymanowen
"I did pick out the hottest outlet to roast (highest voltage, least voltage
drop) for best performance by using the washer dryer outlet that's on it's
own circuit on a short run
from the breaker box, I think that helps.
I use a Kill-A-Watt to watch the voltage and once decided it was a no-go for
roasting because I was smoking meat with the electric meat smoker in the
back yard during a hot summer day and the Behmor on the pre-heat pulled the
voltage down to 112 or 114 V which I knew was a no-go."
EE-GAD! After those two sentences, I think it's going to precipitate
something that will require a snow shovel in the morning. When some sentence
understanding or meaning eludes me, I diagram it (Subject-predicate-object).
Such a simple thing to do, but I failed.
You should know that the 112 - 114v you measure represents a drop from the
actual pole or neighborhood transformer secondary voltage. The power is
usually dissipated in the steel cable used for the neutral line in the
overhead wires to your home.
If you measure the "220v" at the electric range or dryer receptacle, it
won't vary by more than maybe 0.1 or 0.2 volts if you turn on every heating
device in the appliance. 220v is all on copper wires, from the transformer
secondary to the electric range or water heater.
Electric toasters and other "110v" appliances use one copper wire and one
steel neutral cable to supply power to your home. Newer homes with buried
utilities use all copper supply wires. 112 - 114v is not very close to the
actual transformer voltage- 120v - 125v is more like it, with 240v - 250v on
your electric range or dryer.
At 453.5924 grams per pound, you roast about 91g batch sizes with
non-standard supply voltage. What other specification is violated, and you
don't like WHAT about it?
Cheers, Mabuhay -RayO, aka Opa!
-- 
Persist in old ways; expect new results - suborn Insanity...
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14) From: Yakster
I wish I had a 220 V dryer outlet, but alas it's only 120.  It is on a
dedicated circuit, however and does result in the least voltage drop when I
run the Behmor.  Usually the voltage drops from 120 to about 117 or 116 at
the least, but on a hot summer day it can be worse.  I am using a heavy duty
extension cord to site the Behmor on a bench and not on top of the dryer so
that contributes a bit as well.
We ran 440 V in the desert to power some cameras because the power runs were
too long for 120 or 240.  Used step down transformers on the towers.  I
figured that was a wiser course then dropping down into the 38 kV vaults
that were available, didn't really want to deal with that for just the
surveillance equipment.  Voltage drop I understand, but some times it's your
house cabling that's the weakest link.  I remember a communication site in
Guasti (near Ontario Airport in California) that went down.  Came to find
out the line voltage from the temporary power poles dropped to only 90 V in
the summer, damn hot in Guasti and everyone running their A/C.  The electric
provider is not always keeping pace with demand on the sizing of their
outside plant.  Had to put in a voltage conditioner there to boost the
voltage.
Alas, my email is probably not clear.  I didn't sleep much last night,
combination of jet lag and good espresso after dinner here in Milan.  I
think it's a robusta blend which I'm not used to drinking.  I'm starting to
feel like Balzac, I even stayed up into the wee hours working.
My batch size is around 430 - 460 g these days, except for the almonds which
I are 340 g batches.  No complaints there.
I'll have to get some sleep this weekend so I can start fresh on Monday.
Gotta learn some Metro Ethernet technologies to explain our new features.
-Chris (Vimercate, Italy)
On Sat, Sep 25, 2010 at 10:21 AM,  wrote:
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15) From: Bob Hazen
Thanks for the quotes around "220v" Ray!  It aggravates the tar out of me 
when people talk about "110v" or "220v" especially when they refer to "110v 
_current_"  In this country we have 120v, 240v and 208v 3-phase; and a 
smattering of 240v 3-phase and 480v 3-phase.  I suspect this "110v" or 
"117v" stuff came from the labeling on usage equipment that showed the low 
range of acceptable input voltage, but I'm unsure of that.
Now let me see....  What other nits can I find to pick this morning.... :-)
Bob

16) From: Joseph Robertson
Bob,
Pick the fruit and crack the nuts................<];^)
Joe
On Sat, Sep 25, 2010 at 9:20 AM, Bob Hazen  wrote:
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17) From: Allon Stern
On Sep 24, 2010, at 10:45 PM, ricky carter wrote:
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Here's my external cooler implementation - the percoolator:http://www.sweetmariascoffee.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f&tU9#p7908-
allon
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18) From: Mark Jones
Does stopping the behmor affect the machine's operation? I thought I read where Joe didn't recommend stopping the machine until it has totally finished the cooling cycle. 
Mark P. Jones

19) From: Yakster
It is a risk, of course and any time you go outside the manufacturers
recommendations you take it upon yourself.
My Behmor was purchased refurbished and has a date of 2007 on it.  I've had
it over a year and run over a hundred batches on it.  I'm willing to risk
any shortening of the life of this unit at this point, but I do accomplish
the main amount of cooling in the Behmor and restart the cooling cycle right
away after pulling the drum so I feel that the risk is minimal.  Your
mileage may vary.
The Behmor's are built like a tank.  I've replaced the afterburner twice
(due to wires that were nicked when the insulation was stripped giving way
and breaking) and I've heard others have replaced the motors so I believe
that if I have a problem I can purchase a replacement part or replacement
roaster and resolve it.
-Chris
On Mon, Sep 27, 2010 at 6:48 PM, Mark Jones  wrote:
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