HomeRoast Digest


Topic: Pre-heating empty roaster vs. roaster loaded with (6 msgs / 135 lines)
1) From: John A C Despres
I don't own a Behmor, but your thinking makes perfect sense to me. I imagine
you may get a stronger rolling 1st crack as well with the added
warming/drying time.
And you like the way your coffee tastes? Then keep it up.
John
On Thu, Dec 2, 2010 at 9:41 AM, Greg Hollrigel  wrote:
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2) From: michael brown
My thinking is this:If your preheating with the beans loaded. Your not really preheating at all, your starting to roast.When i was using my Behmor regularly i would preheat an empty drum, load the beans and start the roast so that the beans themselves hadn't already been exposed to heat, but the roaster was warmed and ready to go.If i think about it now, i have to preheat my 3kilo first. Then drop in the room temp beans and start roasting. If i were to prehead 'Ginger' (that's her name) with the beans inside, well you can imagine...Another matter of perspective, I let ginger warm up for about 40min before i do my first batch. I get her up to 420, let her cool back down, back up to 420, then roast.Might be something to play around with the behmor, see if you can run a full roast, minus the cool down, NOT get burned, load it and go...i'm just thinking out loud now.Play around, see what happens.
Michael Bb'ham, AL
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3) From: Joseph Robertson
I hope Joe Behm the inventor / developer of the Behmor has plans for a bean
temp probe and front display read out on future models so preheat and roast
profiling can be managed.
Aside from missing this component I think this roaster rocks.
JoeR
On Thu, Dec 2, 2010 at 8:31 AM, michael brown  wrote:
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4) From: Ira
At 06:41 AM 12/2/2010, you wrote:
<Snip>
The only reasons I can see for pre-heating are:
1.  to make sure that you don't run out of time and end up with under 
roasted beans
2.  to change a profiles initial look
Preheating started because of number 1 as myself and a number of 
others were unable to finish 1 lb roast or unable to use P2 as the 
drop happened much to early. When Behmor started recommending 
preheating it was without beans in the chamber and that was the first 
I remember hearing the suggestion it be done that way.
Ira
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5) From: Ira
At 08:31 AM 12/2/2010, you wrote:
<Snip>
The Behmor has a safety feature that makes sure you can't start a 
roast when the interior temperature is above some number.  I don't 
remember what it is, but I've hit it with an accidental 2.5 minute 
pre-heat. Either you wait till it cools enough or run for an ice cube 
to cool down the sensor.
Ira
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6) From: Yakster
So, I use the terms pre-heat and pre-roast, pre-heat when you're not using
beans and pre-roast when you have beans.
Pre-heat:  I see this as a way of emulating the drop in temperature that
other drum roasters use (like hottop and pro roasters).  They don't load
beans into a cold roaster, they have the roaster at a certain temp and drop
in the beans.  I also see this as a way of smoothing out the seasonal
variations of roasting year-round in a garage so that my roasts in July are
not so different from my January roasts.  I'm sold on this method now.  I
pre-heat for 1 - 2 minutes (after 2 minutes, you risk tripping the safety
feature) and drop in at about 200 F.
Pre-roast:  This is a way of extending the roast time and the only way to
make the first leg of a profile longer.  You can use this if you're roasting
larger batches and need more time to first crack, or you can use this to
fine-tune the P2 temp drop of the second leg.  I used to do this, but now
I've dropped my bean load down to 300 g so that my time to first is much
shorter and I don't need this anymore.  I think it's brought out more punch
(acidity, flavor) and reduced flatness you can get in a longer roast.
My process these days is to cull the beans, do a pre-heat with my old-style
chaff tray in, then with Ove Gloves on pull out the chaff tray with one hand
and shove in the loaded drum with the other, shut the door and go.  I've
been doing mostly P1 roasts these days and modulating the temperature with
the door when I hit first crack to simulate sort of a P2 profile, to slow
the cracks down and extend the roast development time.  When I finish the
roast, I'll cool usually with the door open and when the roaster is cool
enough I'll stop the Behmor and pull the drum and dump the beans into my
bean cooler which is a stainless steel steaming pan with holes in the bottom
inside a plastic storage container attached to my shop vac to pull cool air
through the beans.  I shut the door of the Behmor and restart the cool
cycle. The Behmor is good at cooling the beans down to a couple hundred
degrees, but beyond that it takes a while to get to room temp, so I let the
Behmor start the job and then I quickly finish it.  Again, wear the Ove
Gloves to prevent burns.
Since I've lowered my bean mass to 300 g (10.5 oz) and started using the
external bean cooler, I've really been happier with my roasts.  I've been
buying more quality beans at Sweet Marias for the Chemex and espresso.
-Chris
On Thu, Dec 2, 2010 at 9:39 AM, Ira  wrote:
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