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Topic: West Bend Poppery II Troubleshooting (5 msgs / 144 lines)
1) From: sconcas
Please, provide me with assistance to operate my West Bend Poppery II.
I am new to the exciting art of roasting. This the problem I am facing:
The roasting process stall at 410 degrees F, leaving me at the initial stages 
of first crack.
This happens independently of the bean type used. The quantity I put in the 
popper is always the same: 1/2 cup.
I checked the circuitry and everything seems to be in order. 
Should I look for another popper?
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2) From: R.N.Kyle
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
Please, provide me with assistance to operate my West Bend Poppery II. =
have 2 WBPII's 
   The first one I bought new, and has black base and a clear top. This =
popper would get to about 350 and sometimes 400 and the bi-metal =
thermostat would kick open then it would cool and kick back in, it was a =
pain and stalled the roast. I took it apart and with a bare wire I wired =
it shut, after that it fired up and went on to Charcoal roast if I let =
it.So I wanted more control, I wanted to add a 3 way switch, well in the =
process I crossed a wire and shorted out the fan motor. I found another =
one at a thrift store Brown base and yellow tint top. This one would =
roast in and through 2nd crack without interruption. I did add the 3 was =
switch to this one and now have some control over the roast. It seems to =
me each PII is slightly different and for coffee roasting need some =
modification. with the thermometer I use my popper gets to 465 with no =
trouble. I added the switch to slow the roast down after reaching 1st =
crack shooting for a 10 min total roast time.There are quite a few notes =
on popper mods in the archives and a very informative one at this URL http://www.geocities.com/Athens/Oracle/8104/popper.htmlcheck out the links for some information on popper modifications. hope =
this helps
Ron Kyle
a coffee roaster from South Carolina

3) From: AlChemist John
Sometime around 03:00 8/30/02, sconcas typed:
This sound like what mine did.
No need.  Take the unit apart again and follow the wiring on the heater 
plate until you find a small oval disk held between two metal strips.  This 
is the "thermostat".  I believe I saw that Ron wired his shut.  I just 
gently removed  mine.  The result will be the same.  The circuit won't open 
any more 410 F.  That should take care of your problem.
BTW, if you feel inclined, I suggest a 2 or 3 way switch installed to be 
able to run just the fan.  Otherwise, some of the WBII can run very fast 
without the thermostat control.
Good luck.
John Nanci 
AlChemist at large
Roasting and Blending by Gestalt
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4) From: EuropaChris
Let me further clarify this topic.  The thermostat is only accessible if the popper fan housing is completely disassembled.  It's easy to do, just take your time.  You'll see on the heating element a thermal fuse (round, silver color) and the thermostat itself (two contacts, top and bottom).  The trick is to remove the bi-metallic strip UNDER the top contact.  It's a little oval silver part like John says.  You may need to bend down the top contact after you remove the strip as it likely will bend up a bit and not make contact with the lower part.  Just take time and care.
Now your popper will run full bore, and likely roast too quickly.  Mine sure did.  So, either put a switch in the line to the main heater element or use a 1000W dimmer or variac to control the heater.  Unless you are a bit electrically inclined, get some assistance from someone who is.  Otherwise you'll have a smoking pile of plastic at best and at worst you'll be dead.  It's not hard to do at all, but you have to know what you are looking at.
Here's a diagram of Poppery II guts and electrial connections: http://members.shaw.ca/espressomio/poptwo.htmlThis should help.
Have fun!
AlChemist John  wrote:
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5) From: EskWIRED
Either use more beans, or otherwise slow the exit of the hot air from the
popper, perhaps by covering the outlet with a piece of damp cloth or some
heavy gloves, or a piece of metal, like a measuring cup.
You have too much air velocity, which is preventing the coils from attaining
a high enough temperature.
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