HomeRoast Digest


Topic: Roaster on strike (9 msgs / 247 lines)
1) From: =?iso-8859-1?q?Bob=20Cassinelli?=
My Fresh Roast roaster died... The blower works but it doesn't get hot (only slightly warmed).
Any ideas? 
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2) From: Jim Schulman
Bad luck. It's very rare for FRs to have problems in the base unit. 
You can call Tim, the owner/designer of FR toll free at 888-757-2326. If t=
hat 
doesn't work for you, there's a slight problem since he doesn't have an em=
ail I 
know of. However, he forwards his calls to a dealer when he's on vacation =
who 
does - russ - so that would be a place to start if you're out=
side 
the US.
Jim
On 17 Sep 2002 at 5:19, Bob Cassinelli wrote:
<Snip>
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3) From: Mike McGinness
From: "Bob Cassinelli" 
<Snip>
(only slightly warmed).
<Snip>
I feel your pain and despair. Don't know what I'd do without home roast! Get
a back up roaster... I thought my Caffe' Rosto was dying a while back and
got a back up. (Turned out it was okay after all, low dmm battery giving
false voltage reading.) I've been seriously considering the need to learn to
get decent at the old roasting styles just in case no power...
MM;-)
Home Ju-Ju Variable Variac Rockin' Rosto Roasting in Vancouver, WA USA
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4) From: R.N.Kyle
I keep a West Bend Poppery II as a back up cost about 18 new and it does =
a good job. I use as a primary roaster at times, depends on my mood.
Ron Kyle
Anderson SC
rnkyle

5) From: AlChemist John
Sometime around 20:19 9/16/02, Bob Cassinelli typed:
<Snip>
I would try Tim at FR.  I believe his number is 888-757-2326.  It sounds 
like you heater (or maybe heater thermostat) has died.  Doesn't sound like 
any other short as the blower and secondary heater (why it is slightly 
warm) is still working fine.
--
John Nanci 
AlChemist at large
Roasting and Blending by Gestalt
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6) From: Kevin DuPre
If your roaster is NOT out of warranty, or you have
NOT modified it (rendering the warranty void), send it
back to where you ordered it from. The manufacturer
warranties these unit for a year. 
Otherwise... There are two screws which separate top
of the unit from the bottom. There are 3 screws which
separate the heater/motor module from the casing top.
There are two coils in the heater module which has 3
wires coming out of it, which I found from modifying
my FR to add a heat control relay. There are 3 wires
which provide access to these two coils. Contrary to
popular belief, both of them do NOT provide roaster
heat.  One is a dropping resistor to reduce the 120V
AC to the motor which is a 12VDC motor. There is a
full wave bridge rectifier which uses the contacts of
the motor and two terminals mounted on the motor as
mounting terminals for the diodes.
The heat disspated by the dropping resistor is
insignificant as I have determined by observing the
temperature of the roasting chamber when the current
to the heater has been interrupted while the motor is
running (while the FR is in the "COOL" portion of its
cycle). 
As previously posted, my modification using a relay
actuates the relay off of the DC motor current with an
externally mounted footswitch.  The contacts of the
relay interrupt the heater coil which DOES generate
the heat of the roast.
Knowing what I know about heaters and wirewound power
resistors, both coils are probably nichrome wire. The
roasting heater is between the RED and WHITE wires
coming out of the roasting module, the dropping
reisistor between the RED and BLACK wires. 
Probably what has happened is that the heater coil has
OPENED, which happens with nichrome heaters. WITH THE
POWER TURNED OFF AND THE UNIT UNPLUGGED! If you can
test with an ohmmeter the resistance of both halves of
the broken HEATER coil, you may be able to buy
nichrome wire from an electronics repair store (most
Radio Shacks don't carry this stuff any more), or an
appliance repair store, and wind yourself a new
heater. Usually heater wires are wound around some
fireproof form such as that made of mica, with slots
in it to hold the windings of the heater. The coil
probably doesn't have a lot of turns in it.
The Fresh Roast roasters are very simple inside and if
you have access to nichrome heater wire, you can
probably have one of these for a long time as I could
anticipate that the heater coil would be the only
thing that would go - it takes the most abuse during
the roasting process.
Hope this helps,
Kevin
=====
--
Kevin DuPre
obxwindsurfhttp://profiles.yahoo.com/obxwindsurf"The real voyage of discovery consists not in seeking new landscapes but in having new eyes -- Marcel Proust"
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7) From: sho2go
Kevin, I've torn mine down to find the reason the motor has slowed so much.
I've found the commutator has worn in an arc shape, although the brushes
have a lot of meat left.  I wonder if there is somewhere that can turn this
beastie; it looks like the armature will come apart ok.  Have you any
experience in this area?
Mike

8) From: Dan Bollinger
Any metal lathe can turn commutators provided there is enough stock left.
But, you must take a little screwdriver of knive and clean the spaces
between the commutators, otherwise the motor will short out. Dan
<Snip>
much.
<Snip>
this
<Snip>
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9) From: R.N.Kyle
Mike I raced radio controlled cars for 10 yrs. and resurfaced the =
commutator on many motors.The modified motors are made to take apart, =
but most stock, and other small motors are tabbed together I mean the =
end bell is held on the body of the motor with bent over tabs. Once you =
get the motor off, you can tap  the end where the fan attachés on a =
hard surface, with a good quick snap of the wrist it should pop the end =
bell off and you can pull the armature out of the housing. be careful to =
remember orientation and the amount of shims on each end. so you can =
reassemble. 
The hard part is the need of a small lathe and a sharp bit, prefer a =
diamond bit. to cut the communtator true, and take a ball point pen and =
surface between the segments to give the brushes a smooth travel across =
the segments.
But that is the best way. You could chuck it in a drill press, or a hand =
drill mounted in a vise and carefully us a smooth file to resurface and =
follow with some smooth sand paper.
spray the entire motor with electric motor cleaner a drop of light =
machine oil on each bushing or bearing which ever your motor has. =
Remember that when you remove material from the communtator it slightly =
advances the timing on the motor increasing the RPM and reducing the =
torque. This applies to DC motors. I have not worked on AC motors. Hope =
this helps
Ron Kyle
Anderson SC
rnkyle


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