This is a multi-part message in MIME format. It may have been said but- when reference is made on "time to first = crack or second crack" is this timed to the very first isolated crack = heard or to when the crack really sets in to the continuous crack which = if I understand things is the rolling crack. Thanks. Ray.
Hello Ray, First crack sounds more like a popping sound . and there will = be some beans that will pop early and I usually count first crack = starting when the cracks start coming close together. after 1st. crack = stops there is usually a lull in the process and 1 to 3 min. then a more = subtle crack can be heard sounds like crinkling up cellophane and when = that sound get one on top of the other this is 2nd crack. Hope this helps, and I'm sure many on the list will reply. Ron Kyle Anderson SC rnkyle
ray & lois baker wrote: <Snip> I record crack times at the 2nd or 3rd isolated crack, and note the time a rolling crack. <Snip>
Brain Glitch then a more subtle crack can be heard sounds like crinkling up = cellophane and when that sound get one on top of the other this is 2nd = crack. ( SORRY I meant this is a rolling 2nd crack) Ron Kyle Anderson SC rnkyle
This is a multi-part message in MIME format. Thank you Ron, your response cleared up the matter for me, I have been = recording just as you stated. Something I have noticed on the list is the longer roast times on = theFR+. I have a FR not the + and all my roasts come to 2nd crack in = well under 5 mins(without the soup tin mod).Typical is a mandheling = which will reach first crack in 2m 30s and second crack in 4m 15s. Is = this because it is a plain old FR or could it be that we run on 230V. = and don't have noticeable voltage drops?. Thank you for any comments. = Ray
Hello Ray , The line voltage does play and important roll in roasting, = the more voltage to the heater lets the heater produce more heat. At my = house and where I plug in it generally is at about 117, I have do not = know about 230V here in the US it is 120V but if your roaster is = designed to run on 230 the same would apply. The FR+ doesn't have an air = baffle slide like the FR. I think the input voltage and ambient = temperature, have more to do with roast time then anything else, but the = amount of air flow over the beans is also a factor. Keep trying until = you find the correct amount of beans for the roast time you are looking = for. Some people have modified their FR with a 3 way switch so that one = position on the switch is full on, and one is full off, and the other = runs the fan which goes thru a small heater coil to reduce the voltage = to the motor for the correct RPM for the fan. The FR+ has a timer knob = with a cool cycle, and you can turn it back and forth between heat and = cool to prolong the roast time. Off to work, good luck Ron Kyle Anderson SC rnkyle