HomeRoast Digest


Topic: Re-wired Rosto first run, careening into roasting drums (12 msgs / 495 lines)
1) From: john kangas
It's handy being a welder, but this stuff's still not quite free, with all 
the airborne welding ash, ultraviolet, etc. (Working on that however, 
starting on prerequisites for a degree this year, yay!)
I had a thought about making a drum today- two sheets can be formed into a 
half circle in a brake press, it wouldn't be a perfect radius, but a series 
of small bends. Between 1/2" and 1" between bends wouldn't be any trouble 
for a decent machine. Then either weld together, or overlap and bolt 
together for easy cleanup or modification. Or hinge one side...
As for the chunk o' pipe residing in my garage, I could use some input on 
what to do with this thing.
I'm leaning towards building a heat exchanger, and forcing heated air 
through the drum. In which case, the drum may not need holes added.
I don't have a bbq worth roasting in, so I'll be building the whole mess 
from scratch. Electric heat would be nice, but I'll stick with propane, 
since it can definitely provide enough heat.
Any bright ideas?
John
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2) From: floyd burton
Got a steel fabricator to run a sheet of cr 18 gauge steel thru a
roller-made it into a drum 10" in diameter and 23" long. That plus 2 ea 16"
square flat pieces and another 16" square run thru the roller to make a
perfect cylinder was only $45.  Was a cinch to pull it together and drill
some holes for the bolts to hold it together.  Modified a ss bowl from
walmart-cost $4 for an end piece - drilled a hole in the bottom of the
bowl-that faces out and the bowl looks kinda like a funnel. Will pour the
beans in thru this and when the roast is finished-pour them out this end.
Will also try to make a door in the side of the drum with a hinge and snap
closure or maybe a sliding door-think it will be easier to get the beans out
like this than holding this drum up on the end.  Using a 5/8" cr rod as the
shaft-Ed told me about a motor source-puppy is only 30 rpm-but has 130"#+ of
torque.  Hope 30 rpm is fast enough.
Got a big honking gas grill-has either 46 or 48K btu and big work areas on
the side. Oaxaca Charlie said he roasts 5# of beans at a time in a smaller
drum.  He uses a hinged door on the side of the drum also.  Should have it
together this weekend.  Oh if propane is pricey in your neck of the woods it
is a snap to convert to natural gas-just get some gas line-hook her up-drill
out the orifices by about 25% and you are good to go.  I look for gas leaks
with a lighted match-it works.
Let us know what u come up with.

3) From: Oaxaca Charlie
--- floyd burton  wrote:
<Snip>
Just to be clear-The hinged door on my drum is on the end plate.
It was easier to do that because the drum is ss mesh. Some
drawings of old time home roasters in Ken Davids' Home Roasting
book show side doors on drums. Worth studying a bit. You're
going to have to lift it out of the BBQ to dump the finished
roast no matter where you place the door, though, no?
Charlie
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4) From: Ed Needham
Welders gloves.  My stainless steel drum is cool enough to handle with
leather work gloves straight from the grill.  If I touch the steel rod (spit)
for more than a few seconds, the leather heats up quickly, and by the way,
stays hot until you remove the glove.  Don't ask how I know this.
Ed Needhamhttp://www.homeroaster.comed
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5) From: Steven Van Dyke
These big drum roasters are out of my league, but I thought I'd toss in an
idea from the photographic world that might be helpful.  For darkroom types
a company called Jobo makes drums for developing film, prints, etc..  Some
of these can be pretty large (10 rolls of film, for example) and get pretty
heavy when filled with chemistry.  They have a thing called the Jobo Lift
that you can add to these systems.  It's basically just a lever system to
give you a mechanical advantage when lifting / draining the long drum.
I'd bet you guys could rig your large drums to have a lever operated tipper.
Be a lot easier *and* safer.
Enjoy!
Steve :->
http://www.svandyke.com<- my simple home page
http://www.cafeshops.com/stevespics<- my little store of Impressionist &
Special Events Photography stuff)

6) From: Jim Gundlach
On Tuesday, January 7, 2003, at 10:46 PM, floyd burton wrote:
<Snip>
These new long lasting bubbles for kids does a better job than anything 
else to check for leaks with.  Brush some on the connection and come 
back ten minutes later and if there are bubbles, you have a leak.  Most 
leaks don't provide sufficient fuel to maintain a fire.
Jim Gundlach
homeroast mailing listhttp://lists.sweetmarias.com/mailman/listinfo/homeroast

7) From: floyd burton
Thanks for the suggestion-yeah why not put it on the end-have to tip it up
anyway-plenty of room for the hardware-hinge/lock and yeah that makes
sense-Ed also suggested max hole size of 1/8".
thanks for making the door bit simpler.

8) From: floyd burton
Thanks for the suggestion.  My biggest concern is how to handle the heat.
Have welders gloves but they won't be adequate.  Thinking about how to grab
the drive shaft with a some kind of a handle that will give me control and
keep my hands from getting fried.  My drum should weigh about 25# loaded
with 3# of beans.  Another tour of the hardware stores-too bad there are no
working blacksmith's around here-they would have the tools to do that.

9) From: floyd burton
Thanks-installed a gas dryer a few months ago and the idiot before me used a
range connection-thus the connection was different and when I did the old
match routine-the connection had a nice blue aura around it.  Thanks for the
tip on the kids bubble bit.

10) From: Ed Needham
I use the wooden rotisserie handle and plain leather work gloves to grasp the
stainless drum itself.  As long as I keep from grabbing the steel rod for
more than a few seconds, it's no problem.  Since my drum is stainless steel,
it is not nearly as hot as the rod, and cools to the touch in a minute or
two.
Ed Needhamhttp://www.homeroaster.comed
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11) From: Steven Van Dyke
Is there a Rennaisance Festival in your area?  If there is or a SCA chapter
(Society for Creative Anachronism) they probably know some blacksmiths.
Since you want the handle part to stay cool I'd have the first part of the
lever's motion bring it over to engage the drum.  Sort of a cage that
provides an assisted lift.  There *may* be pictures of the Jobo Lift on the
Jobo USA website.  Let me go confirm the URL...http://www.jobo-usa.com/is
the general URL, This onehttp://www.jobo-usa.com/products/cpp-a.htmhas
some pictures and info about the lift about half-way down.
The Jobo Tech support guys are *very* helpful and would probably provide you
with some more detailed (and useful) information if you asked.
Enjoy!
Steve :->
http://www.svandyke.com<- my simple home page
http://www.cafeshops.com/stevespics<- my little store of Impressionist &
Special Events Photography stuff)

12) From: floyd burton
Matter of fact the Bristol Rennaisance Festival is just a few miles down the
road-am joining Friends of the Faire-still looking for an outfit-gotta have
an outfit which a Claymore will go with.  Thanks for the info on the film
site-don't think I will require anything that sophisticated-should have a
burn in this weekend and a couple of dry runs to see how it goes.
thanks again.


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