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Topic: Air popper heater question (5 msgs / 134 lines)
1) From: rick A jackson
I just purchased a Toastmaster TPC2 hot air popcorn popper. I completely took it apart to see if I could bypass the heating element. This popper has an on/off switch built in, but it turns the heater and the motor on and off. I would love to put a switch to shut the heater off and let the motor run to allow for a "cooling cycle". If I bypassed the heating elements completely with a switch, I don't think the motor would have the proper amount of ohms. The heating elements take care of the ohms issue if I understand. I have checked all the usual spots dealing with popper mods and none of them have what I'm looking for. From what I observed it is wired exactly the same as the old WB Poppery II. If anyone has any suggestions it would be appreciated.
Rick :)
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2) From: AlChemist John
If what you mean by the proper amount of ohms is that you are concerned 
that the fan will run too fast, the fans do indeed increase in speed during 
the cooling cycle, but for the intermittent use we put them too (as opposed 
to 24/7) they are fine.  What other information are you looking for?
Sometime around 20:19 11/28/2003, rick A jackson typed:
John Nanci 
AlChemist at large
Zen Roasting and Blending by Gestalthttp://www.dreamsandbones.net/blog/

3) From: mnemonix
the ohms 'issue' is a question of voltage supplied to the motor. if you 
remove it from the heater circuit you can power it with a separate step 
down transformer, (12-24V ?) but you can do the math if you know the 
resistance of the heaters.
On Saturday, November 29, 2003, at 06:06 AM, 
homeroast-request wrote:

4) From: Frank Leaver
Frank Leaver wrote:
Typically hot air poppers have two resistive coils: one for the main heater element and one to drop the fan voltage to around 20v (which is fed through a bridge rectifier to the DC fan). The main heater is usually around 1000W depending on the flavour of the popper and the fan coil is around 100W.
Your heater control switch would need to interrupt the heater coil circuit while leaving the fan circuit intact.  In this split configuration, when you run on fan-only you will find that there is still a bit of heat being produced by the fan resistor, but this still provides a significant amount of cooling. 
Did you happen to check Felix Dial's web site ?http://members.cox.net/felixdial/popper.mods.shtmlI think he has it covered pretty well. 
Frank Leaver

5) From: Felix Dial
Just wanted to add a bit to what Frank mentioned below.
I've never opened up one of the Toastmaster poppers, but if they are indeed
like the older poppery2's and 1250W wearever pumpers, then using the diagram
at the url below for the unmodified popper, the switch is located on the
Black wire.http://www.geocities.com/Athens/Oracle/8104/modifications.pdfproceed only if you are willing to ruin your popper, get shocked, and
aren't litigious
Using the color of the wires in the diagram above, to toggle the heat, all
you'd have to do is remove the black wires from the switch and connect them
together (wire nut/crimp/tape/etc) and then cut the white wire and connect
the endpoints to the already builtin switch.  You might need a couple of
connectors and hopefully they'll be enough slack in the white wire to
connect to the builtin switch.  Again the wire colors are based on the
diagram in the pdf file above.
Someone please holler if this isn't correct.
One advantage to modifying a 1250W pumper or toastmaster is that the switch
is already built in.  If you're working with poppery2, depending on the type
of switch/toggle you'll use, you'll probably have to drill a hole into the
case of the popper.

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