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Topic: Adjusting the pressure stat on the Giotto (17 msgs / 293 lines)
1) From: alfred
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
There is a review on the Coffee Geek by a guy named D Doll. He said it =
is easy to adjust the pressure stat without taking the top off. He uses =
a small flat headed screwdriver through one of the holes in the warming =
tray.
I'll be damned if I can find it?
Does anyone know how to do this?

2) From: Jim Schulman
On 31 Dec 2003 at 13:23, alfred wrote:
<Snip>
It's inside the machine, connected to the boiler, a small 
plastic cylinder with a screw to turn for adjustment.
Call your dealer for details on how to get to it, on older 
Giotto's, the case had to be removed.
Jim

3) From: John Blumel
On Dec 31, 2003, at 5:06pm, Jim Schulman wrote:
<Snip>
Just be sure that you UNPLUG the machine first!
John Blumel

4) From: Jim Schulman
On 31 Dec 2003 at 18:03, John Blumel wrote:
<Snip>
Not advisable. You need to see the operating guage to know where 
it's set. It is advisable to unplug the machine if the case 
needs removing. But don't adjust the pstat until the machine is 
back at operating temperature. 
I tried it unplugged the first time to set it up from the 
Italian .9 bar setting to 1.2. After a wait for warmup, I got a 
screaming safety valve, and 2 bar boiler pressure. Unplug, re-
remove the case (did I mention I had put it back on?), and after 
another wait for warm up, I adjusted it while in operation, 
seeing the effect of the adjustment on the pressure. It's a lot 
easier.
Jim

5) From: alfred
Jim:
I'm not going to mess with this one since it is going back as soon as the
new Giotto Premium arrives next week.
I hope that I can just remove the top on the new one but in any case: How
much did you have to turn the screw to achieve the increase from .9 to 1.2
bar?
The present machine must be set as you describe at .9. At this setting, I
can only achieve 190 degrees and then only after three trial pulls.

6) From: John Blumel
On Dec 31, 2003, at 6:13pm, Jim Schulman wrote:
<Snip>
If the screwdriver makes contact with the machine casing while you are 
adjusting the pstat and the machine is plugged in, you will get one 
hell of a shock. I learned this the hard way with my Millennium on the 
day of the Northeast Blackout. Not that I had anything to do with 
causing it.
John Blumel

7) From: alfred
Jim: I forgot to ask. When you did your adjustment with the unit plugged in,
where was the water tank? Off?
I thought it wouldn't operate unless the sensors for the water tank were
plugged in.

8) From: Jim Schulman
On 31 Dec 2003 at 19:18, John Blumel wrote:
<Snip>
Ouch, not the best way to straighten ones hair! 
I don't think the pstat adjustment screw is **supposed** to be 
live. But the switch terminals right next to it are. So doing it 
through the grate under the drip tray does pose a shock hazard. 
Mine is set up the old way, requiring case removal, so nothing 
grounded is close to the screwdriver.
I suppose with this setup, the best way is to get all setup, 
switch off, and do a small adjustment quickly so as not to loose 
heat, switch on, and check it.
Jim

9) From: Jim Schulman
On 31 Dec 2003 at 16:09, alfred wrote:
<Snip>
There's differently cased models of the same basic Mater brand 
pstat in these machines (even by the same manufacturer). Some go 
clockwise, most go anitclockwise, to adjust higher. Try about a 
15 degree (1/2 hour) turn to check the effect. You can watch the 
pressure guage to see the turn off/turn on range of the heater. 
The Italian setting usually has the heat turning on at 0.85 to 
0.9 bar, and turning off at 1 to 1.05 bar. For lighter roasts, 
it's best to set it to turn on at around 1.05 to 1.1 bar and 
turn off at 1.2 to 1.25 bar.
The present machine must be set as you describe at .9.
<Snip>
You can see the pstat setting by watching the pressure guage go 
up and down. The on/off cycle will be faster if you let the 
steam wand "dribble" With full steam, the heat may run flat out, 
and the guage may not cycle at all.
Jim

10) From: miKe mcKoffee
Or get a non-metal screwdriver. They're made for adjusting pots on *hot* as
in turned on CRT's...
MM

11) From: John Blumel
On Jan 1, 2004, at 3:48am, miKe mcKoffee wrote:
<Snip>
What are they made of? Ceramic?
John Blumel

12) From: Dan Bollinger
Nylon.  There are also non-ferrous metal ones, usually bronze, for adjusting
coils, but that won't work for you. I've also seen insulated shank screwdrivers
for electricians.
<Snip>http://www.sweetmarias.com/maillistinfo.html

13) From: miKe mcKoffee

14) From: peter zulkowski
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
Hmmm... bronze has copper in it.. conducts electricity very very good......
Dan Bollinger wrote:
<Snip>

15) From: John Blumel
On Jan 1, 2004, at 12:58pm, miKe mcKoffee wrote:
<Snip>
Thanks Mike (and Ben). That nylon sure is versatile stuff. Next thing 
you know they'll have nylon portafilters.
John Blumel

16) From: Dan Bollinger
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
Yep, That's why I said it wouldn't work so well for you.

17) From: John Blumel
On Jan 1, 2004, at 3:31pm, John Blumel wrote:
<Snip>
Correction: ...and Dan
John Blumel


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